Inset Drawer Question

[JohnW]

Most info I read recommends 1/8" clearance on all sides. Does anyone have experience with a tighter tolerance? I'm making some inset drawers and would like a max of 3/32", prefer 1/16", for the sides.

Slides will be Blum full extension 100 Lbs rated side mounted. Fronts will be 3/4" solid white oak and the largest drawer front will be 12" high. So I expect I should keep 1/8" on top and bottom for wood movement. Wanting tighter tolerance on sides because it seems to hide the slides better. I have little experience with inset drawers and was wondering what you folks do.

The front of the slide will be recessed about 7/8" so am I overthinking the visibility of the slides? :icon_scra

 

[ehpoole]

As long as the clearance is great enough to accommodate the natural expansion of the wood from humidity changes and you can keep it sufficiently even and balanced on both sides (within the limits of human perception at least) then that gap may be as tight as you want within those constraints. A gap of 1/16" is very much achievable if that is what you prefer.

 

[Graywolf]

+1 on you can achieve the gap that you find pleasing and functions to your liking. There are no set hard and fast rules here.

 

[CDPeters]

I prefer a smaller gap most of the time. I usually shoot for 1/16 to 3/32 all around.

 

[Phil S]

I would go for a drawer width of 1/16 less than opening.

 

[ehpoole]

I would go for a drawer width of 1/16 less than opening.

Personally, at just a 1/32" gap all around I would be a bit concerned about issues of swelling and possible future binding if the face frames/cabinets and drawer fronts are made from wood, particularly if they were measured and assembled in a lower humidity environment (though if measured and built after extended exposure to 90% summer humidity I would be much more comfortable as you will already be near the worst case expansion asuming no humidity/climate control in the shop or wood storage area). I have no hesitations with a 1/16" gap (1/8" less than opening) under most circumstances as such still accommodates a fair bit of dimensional change and is sufficient for most common wood species and more typical drawer widths, but I would hesitate to go quite that narrow (1/32") unless all the environmental factors have been carefully accounted for along with the wood species expansion coefficients.

As someone who has been there before, it is a real pain to go back and shave some added width off all your drawers after they have all been constructed and finished.

 

[JohnW]

As someone who has been there before, it is a real pain to go back and shave some added width off all your drawers after they have all been constructed and finished.[/QUOTE]

Precisely why I asked Ethan. My shop is climate controlled and the lumber came from a climate controlled area. (Scott Smith) It has acclimated for about a month. I am concerned about wood movement on the largest front which will be inset in a 13" high opening. Looks like I'll shoot for 1/16" on the sides and 3/32" top and bottom where most of expansion would occur.

Was thinking about it more this evening. Since I'm ebonizing the WO, the gap will be dark, and the front panel will be dark. This should help obscure the gap. Also decided to mount the front drawer panel proud of the face frame by 1/8" and edge trim with a tight radius round-over and 1/8" shoulder. This detail should also help obscure the gap.

 

[tarheelz]

Bah. 1/2" on all sides. Give it some room to breathe!