How would you build this?

[Jeff]

No problem. We're here to help.

Look closely at the 3 pics from your aerin.com link that you posted. It's a substrate core of some sort with sloppy veneering on both the top and bottom surfaces. At $5,600 I'd let her buy it and walk away without your headaches making it.

 

[bguil]

Lacquer makes it easy by avoiding the veneer problems. You can easily pattern cut the parts from quality wood core plywood and laminate together. Strength of the feet should be fine given the 16 inch width of good ply glued up. All of the edge grain will need filling and lots of attention paid to smoothness since the lacquer will show every little defect. you could consider taking it to an auto paint shop for filling and spray.

 

[CrealBilly]

I think with a little planning you may be able to use PVC pipe to help you achieve a consistent radius for your thin sheet laminated panel. PVC comes in many different diameters and is fairly inexpensive compared to other pipe, plus titebond I wood glue wont stick to it.

Anyway you look at it it's going to be a glue up nightmare...

 

[dave]

Thanks guys! If she wasn't family I'd pass, but I'd like to help out if I can. Also, even if I fail to make something usable, it will be a good learning exercise.

 

[Endless Pursuit]

I'd cut it out of styrofoam and skin it with glass laminated epoxy. Someone could actually carry it. MDF? Call 3 friends.

 

[kooshball]

I still think Kevin's idea is the best but maybe use Baltic birch ply for strength....take it to an auto body shop and you are done. Or spray it yourself, either way you can't loose...only gain more experience.

 

[Rick M]

Thanks for all the replies! I tried replying early this morning, but that post is not here.

I asked her about the table she saw and she sent this link...

http://www.aerin.com/The-Edgewood-Chinese-Console-Table/2501413010015,default,pd.html#start=1

I am not experienced enough to tell how this was made, but would love to hear opinions. For all know, this piece could have a metal frame with the wood attached to that!

I am leaning towards trying to cut the pieces from plywood and laminate them together, but the strength of the feet is a concern. My SIL is an interrior decorator and she has people she uses for finishing or refinishing items she's needed before. She has mentioned having it lacquered so I think that is her preference at this time. The table in the link she sent looks gilded.

I am going to get back to her with some of the information you all have given me and get a few more specifics on what she wants.

Thanks again everyone!

Looking at the pics I'm not convinced it's actually wood. Looks kinda like a printed wood texture like you find on laminate floors. I just can't tell because the pics look a little soft, almost like a rendered image. If not printed, then it's probably bamboo ply.

Another construction option would be laminate strips of wood running front to back, so the grain is perpendicular to the length of the table.

 

[mkepke]

First you get a really big board and a really big steambox....

More seriously, you could reinforce a stack lamination by including some bent steel rod in the interior plies, e.g. to reinforce the 90 degree corners.

-Mark

 

[PurpleThumb]

Thanks for all the replies! I tried replying early this morning, but that post is not here.

I asked her about the table she saw and she sent this link...

http://www.aerin.com/The-Edgewood-Chinese-Console-Table/2501413010015,default,pd.html#start=1

I am not experienced enough to tell how this was made, but would love to hear opinions. For all know, this piece could have a metal frame with the wood attached to that!

I am leaning towards trying to cut the pieces from plywood and laminate them together, but the strength of the feet is a concern. My SIL is an interrior decorator and she has people she uses for finishing or refinishing items she's needed before. She has mentioned having it lacquered so I think that is her preference at this time. The table in the link she sent looks gilded.

I am going to get back to her with some of the information you all have given me and get a few more specifics on what she wants.

Thanks again everyone!

From the picture ( see the right side) it appears to be torsion box construction

 

[dustin510]

Kevin, instead of stacking them like that with 11 sheets (holy cow $$) why build it out of flat stock with very bulky corners to then shape down? For example, the top would be a piece 5'x16'' or whatever, the sides 2'x16" and with big laminated blocks for the corners. Use rabitts (sp?) and such to get the top and sides to secure to said bulky corners. Then take a sander, grinder, or whatever and carefully shape the corners down. then proceed with the veneer.

I wish I could sketch it up, with my lack of sketchup skill it would take just as long to build it.

This wouldn't save time by any means, but maybe save some money. As far as the vacuum bag, you can avoid that by just using contact cement with the veneer. As long as you have an extra helping hand and a J-roller you should be fine.

I think the best way to do it would be stack lamination of the substrate (MDF) and then veneer the external surfaces with a vacuum bag providing the clamping pressure. Not cheap, but IMHO the best way to make it.

Based on the dimensions you posted, you could get all the layers out of 11 4x8 sheets of 3/4" MDF, which would yield 22 pieces that would glue up to create a seat surface that is 16.5" wide. If you want it narrower, deduct one sheet for every 1.5" reduction in seat width. Use a hardboard form to capture the shape you need and a router with a spiral bit to cut out the pieces. Laminate the pieces together and clamp. To insure alignment, you may want to craft a clamping guide that will keep everything in alignment at the corners. Wrap the guide in packing tape to keep the glue from sticking to it.

After gluing, sand all the edges smooth and make sure the rounded corners are smooth. Veneer the bottom surface of the bench first, then both sides and then the top. To do the top without breaking the bench, you will need to make a support that fits under the bench so that the clamping force is transferred down to the platen; if you don't do that, the bench will break in the middle as the bag draws down pressure.

See? Simple!

;-)

K

 

[BrianBDH]

If it was my sister in law I would tell her to go to IKEA. But if you are going to try it good luck.

i like Kevin's idea of lamination except for cost ($37 x 11 sheets of 3/4 mdf) and the problem I've always had with long thin pieces of mdf. They are so flimsy that I would break a lot of them.

If you started with Kevin's lamination idea but made each "C" out of several pieces, say 4 curved corner pieces and 3 straight; you could jig up and knock them out quickly. You could use plywood if you are going to vaneer or you could use solid wood.

For solid wood, in the corners I would use something like a 2 x 10 and cut them at 45 degrees so you don't get short grained. Then ripped 2 x 4's for the straights. This may limit wood choices to structure lumber (SPF) but we are still talking sister in law here.

As as far as the joints, I would cut my corner pieces with one "leg" longer than the other. When you start gluing up the stack, you flip every other one to create finger joints. You could even use some screws in the center of the stack where they won't be seen.

Just my two cents.

brian

 

[SubGuy]

I just had a revelation. If you want to go the all wood route, you can try this:
-12/4 lumber (on solid board for the whole piece
-Design would be using an intermediate joint so each 90 degree turn (two 45's normally) are now three 30's.
-Glue up with a spline, dominos or large dowels.
-Power carve out the curves and finish.

That would be an expensive experiment but I think it should work.

Another option is 1/8" laminations. Your shaping frame would be some iron pipe in a wooden box similar to those they use in ditches to keep the walls from caving in. In the end you would probably have to joint 4 or more together on edge, but it could be done with dominoes or dowels.

I don't really know. I wouldn't try it. Looks too frustrating for me.