How would you build this?

[dave]

So my sister-in-law saw a table that she wants me to recreate... attempt to at least. My first thought on this is steaming and bending smaller individual pieces into the C shape and then join them and veneer the whole thing. The only other idea is to cut the corners from larger stock and attach the pieces together, but what's the best way to join and keep the method as invisible and strong as possible?

She likes the thought of the table being made from solid would, but that seems like it would be the more difficult build. I don't have the exact dimension down yet, but it will be approximately 2 1/2 to 3 feet tall, 5 feet wide, and 12-16 inches deep with a thickness of 1.5 inches. Attached is an image that shows the design.

Thanks!

 

[Hmerkle]

Perhaps (and I am about as far from a source as you can get!)
you might try laminating it?

http://www.core77.com/blog/furnitur...ge22s_dario_antonioni_wants_to_know_19992.asp

 

[Dave Richards]

I guessed at the radius of the corners and at how long the straight sections are at the bottom but I figured out that you'd need a little over 12 foot long laminations if you did them in one run.

What do you plan for the edges? One option that might be easier to handle is to make a core out of plywood with the corners sawn out. Then put solid edging on--you could steam bend or even lam bend the narrow pieces and veneer the large flat surfaces.

 

[jazzflute]

I think the best way to do it would be stack lamination of the substrate (MDF) and then veneer the external surfaces with a vacuum bag providing the clamping pressure. Not cheap, but IMHO the best way to make it.

Based on the dimensions you posted, you could get all the layers out of 11 4x8 sheets of 3/4" MDF, which would yield 22 pieces that would glue up to create a seat surface that is 16.5" wide. If you want it narrower, deduct one sheet for every 1.5" reduction in seat width. Use a hardboard form to capture the shape you need and a router with a spiral bit to cut out the pieces. Laminate the pieces together and clamp. To insure alignment, you may want to craft a clamping guide that will keep everything in alignment at the corners. Wrap the guide in packing tape to keep the glue from sticking to it.

After gluing, sand all the edges smooth and make sure the rounded corners are smooth. Veneer the bottom surface of the bench first, then both sides and then the top. To do the top without breaking the bench, you will need to make a support that fits under the bench so that the clamping force is transferred down to the platen; if you don't do that, the bench will break in the middle as the bag draws down pressure.

See? Simple!

;-)

K

 

[Phil S]

I would build a form and then laminate it. Lots of clamps and a fair amount of time.

 

[jazzflute]

Oh, and another thing... You can avoid the whole veneer thing if you can convince the recipient to go with a painted/lacquered surface. If you go that way, use body filler (bondo) to do a skim coat over the surface that will keep the edges of the stack lamination from showing; then just sand and paint/clearcoat, as if it was a car, which BTW it will probably weigh a good fraction of...

K

 

[Hmerkle]

If you buy a few tools, practice, and change the design a little...
There is another way;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q3utt2Y5aH0

I can't take credit for finding this - I saw it on NCWW (somewhere...)

 

[jazzflute]

The term lamination is being used differently by a couple of us. Just to be clear, I mean this way.



Actually not too difficult to do, and the shape is completely controllable, with no bending or springback.

K

 

[Hmerkle]

you know if you would have bet me I would have bet against me EVER referencing Tommy Mac...

BUT, in this case - there may be something there....

http://www.thomasjmacdonald.com/rough-cut-woodworking/media/video.php?vid=b2135f063

 

[Hmerkle]

The term lamination is being used differently by a couple of us. Just to be clear, I mean this way.

View attachment 12712

Actually not too difficult to do, and the shape is completely controllable, with no bending or springback.

K

It just took me a minute to catch up to you...

 

[smallboat]

+1 on Kevin's suggestion.
I would do that and then veneer it. (visions of all those seams popping through the lacquer)
I did something similar for a client as a retail display, the "veneer" was powder coated steel and the face/edges were acrylic.

you could also save a bunch of material by making the "C" shapes separate and joining with straights or a flat panel.
(I think that was one of your original thoughts)
If I did that I'd probably stagger the joints between the flats and the c's or do a half lap.
It would be stronger and all hidden by the veneer.

As for joining the stack ( I'd call this a stack rather than a lamination)
I'd consider using dowels or biscuits to keep everything aligned

Quick job if you have a CNC!

 

[kooshball]

The term lamination is being used differently by a couple of us. Just to be clear, I mean this way.

View attachment 12712

Actually not too difficult to do, and the shape is completely controllable, with no bending or springback.

K

In my experience of bending and laminating things much less aggressive than this that shape in a vacuum bag, I will say that Kevin's idea is the way to go. Veneering that doesn't look like too much fun either...maybe a paint job is in order...or if it exists large enough, liquid printing would give you unlimited design options and be super cool.

 

[Jeremy Scuteri]

you know if you would have bet me I would have bet against me EVER referencing Tommy Mac...

BUT, in this case - there may be something there....

http://www.thomasjmacdonald.com/rough-cut-woodworking/media/video.php?vid=b2135f063

That seems like a good idea. You have the hassle of bending, but you don't have a lot of extra material.

PS: What is wrong with Tommy Mac? I know a lot of people don't care for him. I have always liked him.

 

[Hmerkle]

That seems like a good idea. You have the hassle of bending, but you don't have a lot of extra material.

PS: What is wrong with Tommy Mac? I know a lot of people don't care for him. I have always liked him.

Probably just a personal thing...I am not convinced he knows what he is doing - and "Let's get crackin'" REALLY gets on my nerves (so you can see I have tried to like the show...)

 

[Jeremy Scuteri]

Probably just a personal thing...I am not convinced he knows what he is doing - and "Let's get crackin'" REALLY gets on my nerves (so you can see I have tried to like the show...)

I was first introduced to Tommy Mac when I stumbled on these videos: http://www.thomasjmacdonald.com/content/howto/howt/videos/

I watched a bunch of them and was pretty blown away. When I found out he was getting his own show, I was really thrilled. I think I like the videos on the site better than the show, but I think it is tough to put one of these kinds of projects on a 30 minute tv show. The tool chest and bombay secretary are both really awesome.

 

[bguil]

My experience suggests that there are some design difficulties for the build. Using standard substrates gives a heavy table for a narrow foot. This might cause injury if it fell on a little person. A bending form for this shape is somewhat complex, but with very slow glues, layup could be done. Without the curved feet, it would be simple in a vacuum bag, but they add complexity to the task. There are formable, cardboard like substrate materials to get around the weight issue if desired. Long grain 90 degree bends can be done with some veneers around curves, perhaps with dampening, but not all do well. The bending form for vacuum could be quite small using a stair bag, but this might be more investment than wanted.

 

[Jeff]

I'll be deviant and suggest a different approach with no bending experience. I'll defer to the those with that expertise.

How about using bending plywood? That doesn't address a 1.5" final thickness but maybe it doesn't need to be that thick with the added strength of the plywood. :dontknow:

http://www.columbiaforestproducts.com/product/columbia-radius-bending-plywood/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ek3uvnFhUNk

An 8' l x 4' w sheet would work. Ripped to the desired width of 12"-16" and bent at a 6" radius. Executing it in the shop is a mystery to me.

​

 

[Roy G]

Did you ask where she saw the table? Maybe you could find out how it was originally made. If she wanted solid wood, you could make segments up and go around the corners. You could also put in a pattern like segmented turnings have. I have done very little veneering but I seem to remember veneer is expensive.

Roy G

 

[bguil]

Bending ply is just another substrate. It does not alleviate the problems of weight or form bending. Problems of adding the veneer are also unchanged. The 1.5 inch thickness was for the design as it was presented; it was never a strength issue.

 

[dave]

Thanks for all the replies! I tried replying early this morning, but that post is not here.

I asked her about the table she saw and she sent this link...

http://www.aerin.com/The-Edgewood-Chinese-Console-Table/2501413010015,default,pd.html#start=1

I am not experienced enough to tell how this was made, but would love to hear opinions. For all know, this piece could have a metal frame with the wood attached to that!

I am leaning towards trying to cut the pieces from plywood and laminate them together, but the strength of the feet is a concern. My SIL is an interrior decorator and she has people she uses for finishing or refinishing items she's needed before. She has mentioned having it lacquered so I think that is her preference at this time. The table in the link she sent looks gilded.

I am going to get back to her with some of the information you all have given me and get a few more specifics on what she wants.

Thanks again everyone!