how to sharpen carving tools

[jonnyfontaine]

hi guys, i've got a few carving gouges and some small planes that have short curved irons and i'm not sure how to sharpen these, does anyone have any tips of how to do these easily? thanks, jonny

 

[4yanks]

The first step for me is to regrind/sharpen the bevel by hand. I use a combination of diamond stones and sandpaper for this task. I start out at the appropriate grit for the amount of material I need to remove. I place the bevel of the tool on the sharpening surface. I rock it forward and backward until I feel the bevel seat itself on the surface. Then I roll the bevel on the surface so that I simultaneously make contact with the entire bevel while keeping it in the same place on the sharpening surface. Imagine trying to sharpen a round pencil on a piece of sandpaper and I think you get the idea. If necessary move the tool to different locations to prevent dishing the sharpening surface. When I have finished working my way through the various grits I hone the backside to remove the burr. If the tool I am working on is a gouge I will rap a piece of 600 grit sandpaper around a dowel and remove the burr on the backside. Then I take the tool to a buffer and buff the surface to a mirror shine. I made my buffer from an old grinder that I remounted backwards and put felt/muslin wheels on. The whole thing sounds a lot more complicated than it is. A few attempts and I think it will become clearer. I hope this helps.

 

[cskipper]

I use the smaller carving tools. I do kind the same thing as above except that I keep my tools sharp by using a strop and polishing compound. I haven't needed to use a stone for quite awhile. Another member taught me that needing the stones means I let the tools get too dull, or that a double bevel edged tool needs to be flattened. Either way, I lost metal each time. I keep the strop beside me and use if often. (see, Mike, I do remember)

 

[PeteM]

http://chrispye-woodcarving.com/slipstones/keynotes.html

pete

 

[CarvedTones]

After writing this post, I think I might need to start a support group. "My name is Andy and I like to sharpen tools."

I am all over the map, using different things on different tools under different circumstances.

One thing I used to do a lot is the Sharpie trick. If you take a Sharpie and mark the bevel, it makes it easy to make sure you are getting the angle right because it will take the Sharpie off the bevel. It also clues you in as to which way and where you are off. The reason I say "used to do a lot" is that it helps you develop a feel for doing it and then you don't need it anymore.

I have a WorkSharp with a slotted wheel so you can look through and see a tool you are sharpening on the underside. In combination with the Sharpie trick, that works pretty well. I have various grits for regrinding (careful about heat!), sharpening and honing. Those are three different activities.

As an aside, there is one tool you want to be especially careful to hone early and often - the V gouge. They are very difficult to sharpen and grind to a sharp crisp corner (DAMHIKT). Take your V gouge and do my next tick right away...

For some profiles, use some really soft wood (balsa from the hobby shop is good) and cut with the grain to make a clean trench at full depth. Rub some jeweler's rouge or polishing compound in the trench. Now you can pull the tool backward through the trench to hone it. I notice you are in Raleigh. I can give you a balsa board and a little compound if you want to try that.

I also have a cheap imported gouge and V tool you could borrow to practice any technique with. Just bring them back sharp; even if they are an inch shorter and untempered by the time they are sharp. :rolf:

I also have a ceramic cone honing tool. It likes like an alabaster awl. I use it more for turning tools; ceramic works almost too well on regular carbon steel.

I recently got a small fine water stone. It's a bit of trouble but works very well on carbon steel.

I also have some diamond plates, but I use them mostly for sharpening straight edges.

I also have a flat stone tile that I stick fine sandpaper to, mostly for honing straight edges.

And I have a leather strop and a cork strop.

I own a wheel grinder, but I don't use it for sharpening blades.

 

[froglips]

You must get one of these....

View image in gallery​

Just kidding (sort of)....

Andy and I must be related, I see him at the Obsessive Sharpening 12 Step Program every week.....

Just to throw out videos, as I'm obsessed with them, I found Sharpening Simplified by Everett Ellenwood to be the most complete carving and small blade sharpening video out there.

The Basics of European Woodarving with Nora Hall is also hard to beat. Its more an overview of carving and some sharpening.

In general, for one DVD, Sharpening Woodworking Tools by Leonard Lee (Lee Valley) is my favorite of all time. He does chisels, plane irons, kitchen knives, carving and turning tools.

I think most if not all are also available for rental from http://smartflix.com

Jim

 

[CarvedTones]

I was going to say one difference in philosphy is that I am sold on flat grinding, but with the radius of that wheel as an arc of 1/4" or so, would you call it a hollow grind?

I actually don't think my path is necessarily the best; I need to really commit more to one way and stick with it except for rare exceptions. Mike will probably chime in soon. He uses diamond stones and is probably better at sharpening with them than I am with anything because he is sold on them.

 

[richlife]

I'm probably a new voice to most of you having joined only a week ago. Mostly, I agree with "everything" that's been said. Don't over grind, do strop often, do use fine grit sandpaper on a flat plate and learn to rock those gouges (Sharpie technique?) to keep a consistent angle, and practice at least one method constantly (not necessarily exclusively) to develop skill. I also found the balsa with rubbing compound works very well (though I used basswood).

For the grinding (when needed), I've found a slow speed grinder (to minimize the possibility of heat and damaging the temper) with a white or pink 100 - 120 grit wheel (8") works nicely. But the most effective "new" technique for me is a flat water stone wheel at 400 rpm. I have both a 400 and a 1000 grit wheel, but have yet to find a real need for the 1000 because after the 400, I usually go to my sandpaper plate or stropping. The main thing with a flat wheel and gouges is to keep the gouge moving evenly across the surface so that you don't create grooves in the stone wheel.

These flat stone grinders are available for about $120 - $600. One thing I learned early is that, to me, spending a lot on grinding tools is pretty senseless (I can just hear the screams from the Zormek fiends). One of my favorite stories was told years ago in Fine Woodworking magazine. A woodworker travelling in Jamaica came across a "street carver" doing absolutely marvelous work. After admiring him for a while, the traveler asked him how he sharpens his gouges to be able to do such fine work. The carver said, "No problem, mon" and reached over to strop his gouge on the concrete sidewalk next to him.

Keep you eye out for deals and you may find both the grinder and the flat stone wheel new for about $80 each (plus inflation, naturally). Rich

 

[nelsone]

Oh Jonny, you HAD to go and ask THAT question didn't you!:rolf:

Lots of good info, but info doesn't always translate into practice does it? If you can try to find someone that knows what they are doing (Rich may be worth asking) and have them walk you through whatever process they use. You can modify technique once you have the basics down.

 

[richlife]

Oh Jonny, you HAD to go and ask THAT question didn't you!:rolf:

Lots of good info, but info doesn't always translate into practice does it? If you can try to find someone that knows what they are doing (Rich may be worth asking) and have them walk you through whatever process they use. You can modify technique once you have the basics down.

Well, thanks Ed. :wink_smil I'll be happy to try to respond if asked, but I really thought the ideas posted are well stated. There's many ways to sharpen from sidewalks to Zormeks -- they pretty much all work and the main thing is to get started. Try a few techniques (I really like the sandpaper spray glued to 1/4" plate glass) and find what you like. Try to avoid buying special tools until you know what's right for you (if ever). My best advice would be to go on-line to finewoodworking.com, get a 2-week free trial, and search for "sharpening", "sharpening techniques" and "gouge sharpening". You'll find lots of good articles. That's how I started changing my methods. Most important is that ALL abrasive methods can be used successfully for sharpening. But you don't need them all -- a sidewalk will do (assuming you have one).

I can't let that last option stand, sandpaper in ever finer grits on a glass plate is dirt cheap and, without question, one of the best. How do I know? Fine Woodworking told me so and I tried it. Habitat stores will probably have a glass plate large enough for at least 4 or 5 grits for just a couple dollars. Rich

 

[nelsone]

Well, thanks Ed. :wink_smil I'll be happy to try to respond if asked, but I really thought the ideas posted are well stated. There's many ways to sharpen from sidewalks to Zormeks -- they pretty much all work and the main thing is to get started. Try a few techniques (I really like the sandpaper spray glued to 1/4" plate glass) and find what you like. Try to avoid buying special tools until you know what's right for you (if ever). My best advice would be to go on-line to finewoodworking.com, get a 2-week free trial, and search for "sharpening", "sharpening techniques" and "gouge sharpening". You'll find lots of good articles. That's how I started changing my methods. Most important is that ALL abrasive methods can be used successfully for sharpening. But you don't need them all -- a sidewalk will do (assuming you have one).

I can't let that last option stand, sandpaper in ever finer grits on a glass plate is dirt cheap and, without question, one of the best. How do I know? Fine Woodworking told me so and I tried it. Habitat stores will probably have a glass plate large enough for at least 4 or 5 grits for just a couple dollars. Rich

:gar-La; I wasn't really trying to volunteer you, but it pretty much came out that way. I mentioned you because I took a look at your gallery and you obviously know what you are doing! Other than that your post was right above mine!

I know for myself anyway reading and looking at videos are helpful, but not nearly as much as having someone that knows what they are doing demonstrating their method. And I have used most of the methods you mentioned (including the sidewalk!) and have pretty much settled on a slow speed grinder only if some major repair or reshaping is needed. other than that, I use a hard arkansas and strop. Rocking the gouges is what really needs to be demonstrated because there is some technique to that (at least I think so!).

 

[CarvedTones]

What I have instead of a glass plate is a synthetic stone tile. There are several different ones at the big home stores. Just go over to the handtool area first and grab one of their pricier T squares or levels - something you are pretty sure has a good straight edge. Take that with you back to the floor tiles and you will find that not all floor tiles that look dead flat really are. But usually some are. Put the straight edge back. This will not save you much, if any, money but they are a nice size, easy to find and I worry less about accidental breakage.

 

[richlife]

...I know for myself anyway reading and looking at videos are helpful, but not nearly as much as having someone that knows what they are doing demonstrating their method...

Ed, (Kind words will only increase you in my estimation ccasion1 .) Yes, demos where you can actually get hands on are ideal. It all comes down to that "experience" word. All the words and videos in the world won't tell you how it FEELS. Elsewhere, I said I once read 7 years of Fine Woodworking from cover to cover learning to improve my understanding of woodworking. I spent about 2 hours a day reading, then went to my shop to work. After about 5 months of that, I decided the experience, the hands on was way more valuable (of course, by then I had a LOT of understanding to work with) and pretty much got lost in my shop (retirement means doing what you want -- mostly). I still keep referring back to books and Fine Woodworking, though. Nobody knows it all and five people's best methods may lead you to your favorite technique. Rich

 

[richlife]

What I have instead of a glass plate is a synthetic stone tile. There are several different ones at the big home stores. Just go over to the handtool area first and grab one of their pricier T squares or levels - something you are pretty sure has a good straight edge. Take that with you back to the floor tiles and you will find that not all floor tiles that look dead flat really are. But usually some are. Put the straight edge back. This will not save you much, if any, money but they are a nice size, easy to find and I worry less about accidental breakage.

Very good point, Andy. I should have said that my plate glass is tempered. I also keep a 6" piece of flat tile with sandpaper beside me when I'm carving along with my leather strop. Small, handy and takes care of touchup needs without bringing up the larger plate that holds grits from 80 to 2000 for the occasion that I need significant rework or for new tools, blades, etc.

 

[CoolHandLuke]

I use a hand sharpening setup for my tools

I start setting my bevels on a 600 grit continuous diamond/steel plate, then I refine the bevel with a 1200 grit diamond/steel plate. (after each diamond plate session, I remove any burs by lightly dragging cardboard or balsa over the edge until the burr is gone). At this point, depending on the tool I may stop or go to a finer polish..

For some chisels I stop here (for lathe tools It's usually fine w/out removing the burr too), but for plane irons or anything requiring a great edge I will go to a belgian blue whetstone followed by a yellow coticule stone (mine is actually a BBW/Coticule natural combo stone). After the natural stones, I will do some hand stropping on some combination of a leather bench strop, a newspaper strop, or a balsa strop that has been pasted with Chromium Oxide powder... usually finishing w/leather.

It's a long routine until you get used to how everything needs to work, but I like doing things this way. FWIW any straight razor users out there (if any) probably recognized my routine half way through the explanation