How to cut this...

Chris C

Chris
Senior User
I was thinking a shaper but....

20200104_170020.jpg


20200104_170249.jpg


I was thinking straight cut then cove out the bottom?

It's 8+ inches long...
 

Graywolf

Board of Directors, Vice President
Richard
Corporate Member
What are we looking at here. Maybe a couple more pics.
 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
I think I would keep the block square while I cut the dado on the table saw. Then I would probably use a hand plane and then a sander to get the shape on the outside.
 

Chris C

Chris
Senior User
Agreed... But not worried about the final shape. Just don't know how to cut that particular profile 1.75 inches or better into a square block of curly maple.
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
I would start it on a table saw and finish on a router table, leave it about a foot too long to make handling easier.
 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
It looks like that top part of the inside is a through-drilled hole then the rest of the slot was cut with something else.
I would imagine that the detailing of the ends to fit into the steel bands would be the tedious part.
 

Chris C

Chris
Senior User
I was wondering but 8+ inch hole on a drill press seemed like an issue.

As for the ends.... you are correct. But I've become reasonably competent at freehanding guitar neck inlays with a Dremel and veritas router base attachment. I think I can manage but thought about having a template cnc'd if necessary.
 

danw

dan
Senior User
Its been a while since I made my rifle stock by I think I did mine on the router table to remove the bulk and fine tuned with hand tools.
IMG_0412.JPG
 

Gotcha6

Dennis
Corporate Member
If you have access to a wood lathe, I would think you could make a jig to set on the bed to hold the wood and feed it into an appropriate diameter drill bit (probably a Forstner)) and then saw out the remainder. I would hazard to say the original was probably made in a similar manner.
 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
I was wondering but 8+ inch hole on a drill press seemed like an issue.
When those things were made, they weren't made with home workshop scale machines. Most drill presses will go at least 4" so one could drill from either end.

...or cheat. Split the block, rout or detail both sides then glue block back together leaving a little on the bottom to keep things square. Cut that bottom part off.

If you're doing a whole thing out of custom wood, that's an ambitious project.rt
 

Chris C

Chris
Senior User
Not the whole thing... Just the fore-end parts.

My younger brother is big into the CMP Garand matches. He's 1000 yard certified and owns at least one of every manufacturer and type. They have to be original. He wants/needs flamed birch fore-end parts. Apparently the stock is not hard to find but the other parts are expensive and difficult to track down. So I told him I'd see what I could come up with....
 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
I have a sentimental fondness for the Garand. When I entered the 10th grade, like every other 10th grader, I was issued one. It was part of me for the next three years.

There are people that make and sell aftermarket parts but most I've seen were way oversized and clumsy. I can see why he would prefer a custom made one, not only for looks, but for fit and feel. A lot of the new stuff feels like aiming a newell post.
 

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