How might I make a wood frame for a round "Window"

[charlessenf]

I remember seeing a video about making round window, I don't know if this is at all like what you have in mind.

Yes! Yes!

I had sort of figured out the segments and was stuck on the joinery until I watched a Woodsmith show on building a redwood table with a circular top that cut the mortices in teh ends of teh segments and filled them with loos tenons made of the same material. I was looking for teh segmenting guide tonight - now that I knew how I would join the segments and I returned here to find the link.

I found your reply and it is exactly what I needed to see (an soon follow) to turn a cake plate into a unique little shed window.

That he was making a MARINE QUALITY porthole frame allowed me to consider using epoxy for finish and joinery since mine will be exposed to the elements as well.

Perfect video. Thanks!

 

[junquecol]

I had sort of figured out the segments and was stuck on the joinery until I watched a Woodsmith show on building a redwood table with a circular top that cut the mortices in teh ends of teh segments and filled them with loos tenons made of the same material. I was looking for teh segmenting guide tonight - now that I knew how I would join the segments and I returned here to find the link.

I found your reply and it is exactly what I needed to see (an soon follow) to turn a cake plate into a unique little shed window.

That he was making a MARINE QUALITY porthole frame allowed me to consider using epoxy for finish and joinery since mine will be exposed to the elements as well.

Perfect video. Thanks!

Segments can also be fastened with pocket screws, biscuits, or Dominos. SS pocket screwed preferred.

 

[charlessenf]

I normally use a PVC material

Now, that's a thought I hadn't had.

I scored a half dozen 1 x 4 x 10-12' PVC trim board in a Cull Lumber buy and just might be able to make it serve this project. Or the next. Thanks

 

[charlessenf]

I just had the chance to look at the Segmented turning calculator you referenced. It works like a champ and it's very clear. I think you have all you need right there for the basic size, including inner and outer margins. With the addition of adding the lap joint overlap, you're all set.

Thanks
I wonder how to calculate this assembly:

Can't recall where I found the image - but it would appear to offer stronger joints.
Wait, it looks like you just flip the inside edge to the outside.
I wonder what it does to the diameter . . . Hmmmm

 

[chris_goris]

Thanks
I wonder how to calculate this assembly:
View attachment 215689
I wonder what it does to the diameter . . . Hmmmm

Youre thinking about this wrong. You have to start with "what diameters do I need"?. Then its basic geometry/math to determine the rest. No matter which joinery method.

 

[Gotcha6]

What about finger joints for the segments? A jig could be made to lean them as they are fed through either a router or table saw and glued up using TB3 or some other epoxy glue.

 

[charlessenf]

You're thinking about this wrong ... No matter which joinery method

View attachment 215689
What I was wondering was "Wood the circumference change if I used the attached joint approach as opposed to joining the same segments end to end as in the calculator diagram?"

And, for the record, one cannot "think about it wrong!" One can either think or not, think a little or a lot or never give it a thought. There is no wrong way to do it!

 

[charlessenf]

What about finger joints for the segments? A jig could be made to lean them as they are fed through either a router or table saw and glued up using TB3 or some other epoxy glue.

The issue with the half lap would be similar to that with the finger joints in that each segment would, effectively, be shorter than 'calculated.' I printed out a 1:1 scale plan for a (roughly) 15" OD frame and will be able to 'play' with paper segments to 'get my head around' the dynamics involved in 'lapping' the ends.

The Loose Tenon approach (Woodsmith did a round cedar table that way the other day) seems the simplest, while the Finger joint wood appear the strongest and most 'attractive.'

However, you got me con fused with "A jig could be made to lean them." As all the segments wood be in the same plane . . . why would I need to lean anything?