How do you avoid "sticky" painting shelves?

[cpw]

When you're painting shelves how do you get a finish that stuff doesn't stick to? I rebuilt the shelf in our closet ten years ago and we still have to "peel" loose anything that sits on it for any length of time. I grabbed a spare bedspread we keep in the vinyl zipper package it came in and you could hear it on the other end of the house. I just used the same semi-gloss paint we were using on the walls. Should I be using something different or using some kind of topcoat over the paint?

 

[Mike Davis]

Use flat latex for shelves or use polyurethane varnish.
Semigloss latex will always be soft and easily scraped. Anything plastic will stick to it.

 

[marinosr]

Oil-based paints are much harder than latex. Full cure can take ~30d.
Latex paints have come a long way in terms of durability in the last 10y, but they aren't quite as good as oil-based yet. Don't waste time with "Hard Coat" or other latex paint additives (I know from experience, a painstaking six windsor chairs repainted later)

 

[Henry W]

Charles - a few comments
1. Ask for advice at your quality paint store - going there during 'normal business hours' (rather than late afternoon on Saturday) heightens the likelihood of getting full time regular workers with lots of experience.
2. I would suggest that you want an enamel paint - and enamel basically just means hard. Sherwin Williams ProClassic is one example of an enamel latex; other brands (BenMoore) will likely have their own version.
3. 'Blocking' is the characteristic used to describe a painted piece sticking to another piece in contact to it (doors in a door frame is the best example, but stuff on shelves is certainly another). So if you really want to confuse or impress the average paint store person ask about a paint that doesn't block.
4. A tinted lacquer may also be a good alternative (but likely harder to find). I'm unsure if SW or other major retailers carry such a product.

 

[zdorsch]

I use oil based paint for shelves due to blocking with water based paint. Oil based seems less common now. Last time I bought oil based paint was at Lowe’s and I think they carried one brand in white or black—which worked for me because the bookshelves were to be flat white.

I may try enamel as an experiment after comments here and other places.

 

[bob vaughan]

I gave up a long time ago and went to Formica or other laminate. If the shelves are short enough, melamine over particleboard will work.
I had the same paint problems.

 

[Phil S]

I use tinted pre-cat lacquer tinted to any Sherwin-Williams color code. The primer can also be tinted.
Numerous suppliers - I use Horizon Forest Products

 

[chris_goris]

You MUST use a 100% acrylic latex paint. Otherwise, it never hardens completely.

 

[golfdad]

Pro Classic is 100% acrylic

 

[chris_goris]

Pro Classic is 100% acrylic

yes, it is. I didnt want to limit to one Brand, Im sure there are several.

 

[AllanD]

I think all of the acrylic/latex I have ever used tended to block even SW and BM top of the line. I know I have mentioned this before but I have used Sherwin Williams Kem Aqua Plus now for several projects and have been very happy with it. It is one of their Sherwood Industrial products and I don't see it on their website. But both of the Matthews stores keep it in stock, you just have to ask for it. Use the matching Surfacer first. With a pro account I paid about $50 a gallon and about 28 for the surfacer. It is made to be sprayed but I have done a few brush applications in spots. It is quite thin for brushing so apply lightly if you do. Applying it to a horizontal surface like a shelf is doable with a brush if you don't have spray equipment.

I am just finishing up refinishing a whole kitchen and didn't want to mess with the odor or clean up of oil based or lacquer so definitely wanted a water based product. Kem Aqua Plus came through again. Dries extremely fast, sprays well, and dries very hard so no sticking.

 

[smurg]

Pro Classic is 100% acrylic

I've used the newer Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel and it works well also. You can tell what was painted by someone else in our house as everything sticks and pulls up the paint in chunks.

 

[mkepke]

For shelves, find something non-blocking. Most recently, I've used Insl-x Cabinet Coat.

But also, remember that the plasticizers in vinyl packaging can soften some paints including acrylics.

-Mark

 

[BSevier]

I had the same issue with some shelves I had painted and read somewhere about using a little talc on them to remove the stickiness. Of course you only want to do this with light colors. In my case it was an antique white. I rubbed a small amount of talc on it and it resolved the issue.

 

[Bas]

Not all "non blocking" paints are created equal. I bought some Behr paint that was meant for cabinets and trim, but it definitely "sticks". Disappointing. I've had better luck with SW. I might apply a thin coat of polycrylic over the critical areas to prevent ripping out chunks of paint.