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NCGUY77_Redux

New User
Jim
Has been awhile to the point that my old NCGUY77 name was pointing to an inaccessible email (Thus my _redux extension)

Ok, my problem.
Did a master bath renovation that could best be described as a retro 30's-40's black and white marble.
Have been looking for a vanity and lingerie cabinet set for 12+ months to no avail.
We did find a set that we liked a lot but the quality is hideous (all kind of huge gaps, mis-alignments, and shallow drawers)
So I decided that to get it done I'm going to have to make my own (I have a well appointed shop with 20+ years - I'd say I'm an advanced amateur)

The primary issue is how to accomplish the wide sweeping corners.
To me, the corner detail is the primary design element of the look we want to achieve.
I know I would save a bunch of time eliminating that feature but it is non-negotiable.

The primary profile is a 2.5" radius sweep.
The pieces have to be as long as 42" to accommodate lingerie cabinet top.
I don't have a huge shaper and I don't even think they make such a huge bit.
I think a CNC is the obvious solution but I have sent inquires to a variety of custom furniture component suppliers and no takers.

My leading garage shop solutions are...
1) Make some kind of lathe like fixture with a router sled above it and turn it down.
2) Quarter lengthwise a piece of PVC pipe and somehow let that into an L shaped wood mount.
This PVC option has a variety of issues that I can imagine.

The model in the store has it's countertop fastened down and I can't get a look at how the mfg did things.

Anybody have a solution?

Master bath reno.
BTW, I did the LED lighted shoe closet on the right.
mbath_small1.JPG


Retro look
ww_vanity set.JPG


Available at Lowes and priced right with countertop but quality is bad
ww_vanity1.JPG



Corner detail
ww_vanity2.JPG


Profile
profile_roundover_v1.JPG
 

Sourwould

New User
Taylor
The one at lowes is probably bent pvc. You can heat and bend pvc moldings. There also the bendable foam core moldings. Heating pvc is gross to me and the foam core moldings don't last. I think both are kind of brittle for a corner.

Another option is to have it milled from some kind of very straight grained lumber and steam bend.

Actually now I'm kind of confused as to whether you're asking about the molding or the curved substrate?

I might be able to mill that curved panel. I just have to draw it out and check the depth of cut.

Edit: have you looked into kerf core?
 
Last edited:

Roy G

Roy
Senior User
I would turn a 5" diameter piece with that shape on the lathe and cut it into quarters. Since you are going to paint it, you can easily glue up the straight pieces to the corner pieces and sand smooth.

Roy G
 

Woodmolds

Tony
User
Has been awhile to the point that my old NCGUY77 name was pointing to an inaccessible email (Thus my _redux extension)

Ok, my problem.
Did a master bath renovation that could best be described as a retro 30's-40's black and white marble.
Have been looking for a vanity and lingerie cabinet set for 12+ months to no avail.
We did find a set that we liked a lot but the quality is hideous (all kind of huge gaps, mis-alignments, and shallow drawers)
So I decided that to get it done I'm going to have to make my own (I have a well appointed shop with 20+ years - I'd say I'm an advanced amateur)

The primary issue is how to accomplish the wide sweeping corners.
To me, the corner detail is the primary design element of the look we want to achieve.
I know I would save a bunch of time eliminating that feature but it is non-negotiable.

The primary profile is a 2.5" radius sweep.
The pieces have to be as long as 42" to accommodate lingerie cabinet top.
I don't have a huge shaper and I don't even think they make such a huge bit.
I think a CNC is the obvious solution but I have sent inquires to a variety of custom furniture component suppliers and no takers.

My leading garage shop solutions are...
1) Make some kind of lathe like fixture with a router sled above it and turn it down.
2) Quarter lengthwise a piece of PVC pipe and somehow let that into an L shaped wood mount.
This PVC option has a variety of issues that I can imagine.

The model in the store has it's countertop fastened down and I can't get a look at how the mfg did things.

Anybody have a solution?

Master bath reno.


Profile
View attachment 197941


 

NCGUY77_Redux

New User
Jim
I would turn a 5" diameter piece with that shape on the lathe and cut it into quarters. Since you are going to paint it, you can easily glue up the straight pieces to the corner pieces and sand smooth.
Roy G

Yeah I was thiking of the same thing during my jog this morning.
The majority of the glue joint would be covered by the raised moulding detail.
So where do I find a 5" x 42" dowel?
I'm thinking there could be solid layed up porch post that might be a finished 5.25"
However I think I'd prefer something built up from poplar or something equally workable.
Is there anybody in the Lathe section that does contract work like this?


1606239470659.png
 

Michael Mathews

Michael
Corporate Member
Jim, where are you located? Can you build up the poplar or whatever wood you want square tube or column longer than the finished length by at least 4"? I for one have a lathe that could turn that 5" diameter. I'm in Chapel Hill.
 

Michael Mathews

Michael
Corporate Member
On another note, you could also build up some poplar squares that could be turned on the lathe to create the curved moulding!
 

NCGUY77_Redux

New User
Jim
I called up that Roberts plywood link and got the following pricing.

3/4" plywood thickness
3" radius with 1" of flat on both edges
25$ for 8 foot
To me that is a crazy good price
Haven't checked on shipping but it's 10$ to cut to more reasonable length.
 

NCGUY77_Redux

New User
Jim
Jim, where are you located? Can you build up the poplar or whatever wood you want square tube or column longer than the finished length by at least 4"? I for one have a lathe that could turn that 5" diameter. I'm in Chapel Hill.
Michael,
Thanks for letting me know you have the capability to turn a 5" dowel if I wanted to go down that path.

In the meantime I think I'm leaning toward the quarter round 3/4" plywood which I could biscuit directly to the side panels.
 

mpeele

michael
User
If you have a router and straight bit build a fixture to hold material and a router sled 42+ inches long to guide router. Cut 2 3" to 4" or so radius 1/2 circle profiles to attach to end of blank. Larger radius reduced by extending router bit to get to 2 1/2" final profile. Mount router in sled and rout up/down length and across 1/2 circles. bottom of router sled should have same radius as 1/2 circle. you could even use off cuts from 1/2 circles.

I would start with a square stock and cut back of profile at 45 degree but leave a flat for mounting to panel. I would then remove some material from front with table saw to reduce material that needs to be removed with router.

I probably did not write an understandable description of the process but if you are interested I'll do a better drawing.
 

Oka

Casey
Corporate Member
1"flat on both ends means 1"tangent on both ends. The tangent section is where the radius ends and the straight line/plane begins
 

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