Help With Garnet Shellac

[Ken Massingale]

My first time using Garnet Shellac and first time using flakes. I mixed a 2 lb. cut and let the flakes disolve 48 hours, stirring frequently. I strained through many layers of fine cheesecloth, then strained again.
I'm using it on a White Pine blanket chest for the MIL, and tested it on a test piece of scrap. It didn't look like I expected Garnet Shellac to look but it was even.
I now have 3 coats on the chest and the finish appears blotchy, some areas are darker than others. It doesn't seem to be softer wood areas, some of the dark areas are over hard knots.
Any suggestions on what I'm doing wrong will be appreciated, and help on what I may do to prevent stripping this dang thing and starting over.
Thanks,
Ken

 

[Grgramps]

Ken,
I don't think I'm going to solve your problem, but just offer some comments. First, I haven't used garnet - only blonde. Knots are usually darker to start, so they should appear darker. Since garnet has a color, areas with a thicker layer will be darker. If you could supply a picture, it would help. I appreciate the frustration when things don't work as they should, as I've been there.
Roy

 

[NCPete]

I appreciate the frustration when things don't work as they should, as I've been there.

been there??? I live there!:lol:

 

[michaelgarner]

hello friend, Pine is notorious for finishing problems, like cherry and poplar, I have two suggestions,

1, try to add a deeper tint to lite areas by hand,

2. next time us a wood conditiioner on pine before you finish it, or a very very thin coat of the final finish. be blessed bro

 

[woodguy1975]

If you sealed it with blonde shellac before hitting it with the garnet you might have avoided some of the blochiness or started with a 1 lb cut to make sure you got an even coverage. The same applies for toners or dyes. If you try to go too dark too quick you are asking for trouble. The key is multiple coats of light color.

I'm not a good person to ask about pine though. I don't allow it in my shop.

Good Luck,

John

 

[Ken Massingale]

Thanks for the replies and suggestions. I ended up stripping most of the dang thing with DNA, leaving a thin coat in the surface. I added one more light coat of Garnet, changing my application technique a little, then used clear Bullseye and it came out 'better', but not a finish I usually do.
Well, it is for the MIL.....
I'd prefer not to use Pine, but I came across 600 bd/ft of 15 year old kiln dried White Pine for $0.50 bd/ft. I do like White Pine and my wallet doesn't allow me to be as picky as I would like to be.:eusa_booh
Dang! I just figured what caused the problem. This White Pine was cut in New York state! Should remember that *&^%$ Yankee wood needs a good whupping before starting to mill it!:mrgreen:
ken

 

[4yanks]

I use garnet shellac often, it is my favorite topcoat. I have not experienced your problem. However, I usually put a coat of boiled linseed oil on first. This may be the difference.

 

[Steve D]

Ken,

How did you apply the shellac? Spray, wipe, brush? Pine is notorious for stain problems but shellac is one of the most forgiving finishes out there. As WG mentioned earlier, a thin "seal coat" of blond/amber coat may have helped. Shellac is one of my favorite finishes to work with, especially when started from flakes. It is so versatile and can be repaired if damaged. I typically spray shellac but it goes on well with many different applications. My guess is that you will get better results applying the garnett is thinner cuts or over an lighter sealer.