Help please!

[lwhughes149]

I have just glued up my walnut chest and discovered a problem. I have posted a picture of the cabinet and will try and attach it with this message. If I fail in this attempt I would appreciate someone moving it for me.
You will see two dividers that make three drawers of which the outer two will hold up the top when it is dropped down. I cut the dividers 1/16 th of an inch too short and when they didn't come together in the gluing process I clamped them.
I am preparing the two top boards now so I am not ready to address this issue yet. I am thinking of an overlay drawer and just making it to fit the opening knowing that the overlay will cover up the problem. The two smaller drawers have a difference in height from right to left but the top line is good. Please give me some suggestions. The dividers are glued in and trying to remove them will only damage the piece. As you can see I wasn't able to attach the picture. It is in my gallery. someone move it please.

 

[clowman]

Are these the correct pictures?

 

[DaveO]

Lorraine, I think that your thoughts about using the overlay drawer face is going to be your best bet. Make the drawer box to fit the opening by making one side shorter than the other, and the front and back "out of square" like the opening. The apply the drawer face and make it square to the case.
The only other option would be inset drawers planed to fit, but I think that way would show off that the weren't quite right.
Dave

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

I'd turn the case on its side and rip the dividers lengthwise (front to back) with a rip saw (that's one of those long saws that you push and pull with your hands:-D), then cut, fit, and glue in filler strips to make the dividers the proper width. The strips will be 1/16 + kerf thickness. It would be a long grain glue up and should be as strong as a single board and you won't see it since these are hidden pieces, except at the front. If the front edges of the dividers are endgrain it should be easy to match, if not just chisel the fronts back (you could router most of it) about an 1/8" and then glue on some facing pieces. It looks like walnut so make it look as nice as possible since you spent big $ on materials.:-D

Another option is to cut the dividers on an angle and add a piece.

I have just glued up my walnut chest and discovered a problem. I have posted a picture of the cabinet and will try and attach it with this message. If I fail in this attempt I would appreciate someone moving it for me.
You will see two dividers that make three drawers of which the outer two will hold up the top when it is dropped down. I cut the dividers 1/16 th of an inch too short and when they didn't come together in the gluing process I clamped them.
I am preparing the two top boards now so I am not ready to address this issue yet. I am thinking of an overlay drawer and just making it to fit the opening knowing that the overlay will cover up the problem. The two smaller drawers have a difference in height from right to left but the top line is good. Please give me some suggestions. The dividers are glued in and trying to remove them will only damage the piece. As you can see I wasn't able to attach the picture. It is in my gallery. someone move it please.

 

[Monty]

The overlay would hide the problem I think. If you want to fix it, I'd just turn the case on its side and run a jigsaw right down both of those dividers (two passes, one toward the top and one toward the bottom to clear out most of the waste). Then I think I would carefully chisel out the dadoes. Presumably it's only glued on the front, right? So you'd only have to chisel out a couple of inches. If you're careful (especially on the face that shows) you should be left with a dado that's clean enough to fit a proper sized piece in.

 

[lwhughes149]

Well, first I will say the top picture is the proper one. And thanks for moving it for me. The other picture is the walnut nightstand which now sits in my livingroom. I thought about cutting it out but I am concerned that I may have more glue than would be safe to remove. I am afraid I would damage the cabinet. The drawers are overlay so I am considering making the drawers fit the opening. We are talking about the three top drawers. There is some bow in the second from the top drawer but only at the top and the overlay can cover that. I have always heard that you make the opening and make the drawer fit the opening. Looks like that is what I am going to do. I am about a week away from making the drawers so I have some time to decide. I wish I could cut the pieces out but if I mess it up then the entire cabinet is gone. Yes it is walnut. Thanks and I will let all know what I do. Keep the thoughts coming. Todays mistakes are lessons learned.

 

[mshel]

Since I cannot see a closeup pic, am I correct in assuming that the problem is that there is a 1/16 gap at the top of the divider? If this is the case, you could just cut a filler strip ( try to match endgrain) and apply glue and tap it into place. Since this will fill any gap, it give you another option rather than just going overlay. It will also help support the weight of the top as it will fill the void you have now. IMHO, I think this is your easiest fix and will be better than just covering it with overlay drawers.

Mike

 

[Dutchman]

Just for future reference, you can use an upright between your rails as opposed to a partition. With an upright you will not have end grain on the front of your case. Put a another upright in the back for support.
I am not sure if you had planned to use drawer overlays with a drawer box or not. You might could make it work, but your rail looks kind of bowed in the picture. What kind of guides are you planning to use? If your partition could at all be removed, you might could then put in an upright if you were planning to use inset drawers.

 

[Joe Scharle]

I agree with DaveO that the face frame Will hide the slight curve, (I've done similar things enough and haven't been caught....yet!) but if you need to square the arc, the simplest approach would be to rip the partitions and pad in splines. From the pic it looks like enough room to run a jig saw along a straight edge. I'm guessing that the partitions are for drawer slide mounting.
I'm just curious as why you built web frames, but left out the dust panels. Is it a weight issue?
I thought your night stand was excellent.
Joe

 

[lwhughes149]

Let me see if I can comment on all that was said. First of all there is no gap, I did away with the gap when I pulled the two together and formed the bow. I would like to cut the two pieces out and clean them up with a chisel but there is glue in the back maybe 2 inches and also in the back. Do I have enough room to get the chisel in there? My fear is damaging the piece. Haven't given up on that idea though. Why did I use the web design? It is all I know. I used it on the nightstand because I was following an example by Norm. This is only my third piece of furniture. I learn something on each one so all isn't lost and for the person who was concerned about the cost of the walnut, I get it from a local lumber yard at a good price. Talk with me more about cutting these out because I would like to go that route but I have a fear of damaging it. Keep the thoughts rolling. I will go back in there tomorrow.

 

[erasmussen]

If it was me it would worry me to no end until I cut it out:-(
Good luck with it, whatever you decide on doing:eusa_thin

 

[Gofor]

Just a thought: Because the dividers are only glued on the ends, I would run a drill bit (ie Forstner, etc) in from the ends the depth of the glue to weaken the joint before trying to remove it. This will lessen the chance of damaginging the other pieces and minimize the cross-cutting/chiseling needed to free the divider up for removal.

Just a thought

 

[lwhughes149]

The suggestion was made that I cut from back to front through the divider which would allow the cabinet to go back in proper position. I would then cut a piece to insert into the open space and glue it in place. I think I will do that. I dread the thought of trying to make the drawers fit the space as it is now. I could try to remove the entire divider but I have glue in several places. While we are at this did I understand that I would only glue the first couple of inches? I know I must address wood movement so I put glue in front and back.

 

[Monty]

I don't want to suggest something that you might regret doing... just take it with a grain of salt! If you glued the front and the back, you might have an issue with wood movement. The movement of that solid wood top would be constricted by the dividers. You can chisel out that piece I think, with patience and careful work. First cut away as much waste as you can with a jigsaw or whatever, then chisel close to the line (but not on the line). Then take a good sharp chisel and very carefully cut precisely on the glue line on the face of the piece (flat face of the chisel lined up with the floor/walls of the dado). Once that line is established, you can be less carefull with the rest as long as you don't widen the dado too much. Then you can cut an upright to fit as Dutchman suggested.

 

[jmauldin]

I can't help but agree with those who say "rip it out" - whether that be cutting a curf down the middle or cutting the dividers out and stgarting over. I don't think you will ever be happy with yourself, knowing that the piece "isn't right". It appears to me that there is enough room in the middle divider to use a jig saw and cut the dividers in half. Then with a sharp chisel you could remove the pieces where they are glued.

Good luck.
Jim in Mayberry

 

[Joe Scharle]

The suggestion was made that I cut from back to front through the divider which would allow the cabinet to go back in proper position. I would then cut a piece to insert into the open space and glue it in place. I think I will do that. I dread the thought of trying to make the drawers fit the space as it is now. I could try to remove the entire divider but I have glue in several places. While we are at this did I understand that I would only glue the first couple of inches? I know I must address wood movement so I put glue in front and back.

I'd cut from front to back because the partitions are under some tension caused by the lower rail and the last inch may split. Doubtful; but can happen. Filler strip (spline) cut from same walnut, glued end to end. I assumed that you would use a face frame because the dados are through (exposed ends). The face frame is the only thing that a viewer notices for "square" and also determines the drawer size and mounting. Good luck, Joe

 

[lwhughes149]

But Jim I like the idea of a clean cut through the middle and then gluing up a strip through it. My fear is so great when it comes to cutting it out.

 

[Travis Porter]

We all screw up and learning to fix or hide mistakes is part of the challenge. As Monty says, take your time and do a little at a time.

 

[lwhughes149]

If I decide to cut it out can I come back with only a small divider in the front and one in the back and not put a whole piece back in. Maybe strips in the middle just to guide the drawers.