Headstock / Tailstock Riser

[Rhythm House Drums]

Wondering if anyone makes a 2" riser for the headstock / tailstock for a jet 1642? Searched online and looks like a few people have made them (DIY), one guy describes the process. (well pretty much takes a large chunk of metal to a machine shop and they do the rest).

Just curious if anyone has done this mod to their lathe, any downside? I'd probably only use it every once in a while and leave it off for 95% of what I do.. but sometimes, it would be nice to have an extra inch of clearance. I'm also thinking about doing some larger drums in the future. As much as I'd love that new powermatic with the 20" swing (or is it 24?) I cant drop the 8Gs.

This isn't the original article I saw, but is the same concept. http://billswoodcreations.com/turn-lathe.html

 

[Mike Davis]

The only downside I see is the possibility of overloading the motor, bearings and mounting of your lathe with too big a chunk of wood. As long as you are only doing laminated, hollow, lighter weight pieces it should be fine.

 

[Gotcha6]

I'd suggest making one from a dense neutral wood if you are so inclined. Perhaps Lignum or Birch. But not oak. It's too acidic and will corrode the face of the metal. You might also consider some UHMW Poly. Since you're not turning stuff with much accuracy like on a metal lathe, I'd think it would be doable.

 

[erasmussen]

Dont forget the toolrest has to come up and out the same amount.
I took my HF lathe up 2" used Ipe and it worked fine, but I had to weld up a new banjo.

 

[mkepke]

Riser blocks are on my 'to-do' list for my Delta HD lathe.

Consider MDF or decent (no voids) plywood for the first attempt.

You would need to extend the clamping mechanism on the tailstock to account for the increased height. On my Delta, the clamping mechaisn uses a U-shaped shackle that looks like it could be extended easily with some threaded rod and couplers.

The headstock on my Detal is secured with 4 bolts to the cabinet, so that's easy (longer bolts). Not sure what mechanism the Jet uses with its sliding headstock.

The key will be making sure the headstock and tailstock stay aligned.

For the banjo, I plan to use a taller and wider toolrest in the current banjo.

-Mark

 

[Rhythm House Drums]

So you think MDF will stand up to the pressure?? Guess its easy enough to try. I think if I glue up 2 sections of 3/4 MDF. And form it to fit the lathe I can raise up the beds 1.75. That'll give me 3.5" more which would be awesome. I have the 2hp 1642 lathe, and I am doing light forming to shapes that are hollow, 20-25lb projects max. I have the 3/4 Baltic birch as well. Which would be better suited?

 

[Mike Davis]

I always go for veneer glued together over sawdust glued together.

 

[Gotcha6]

If you do decide to go with a wood product for the riser, save yourself some grief and make some sort of shim/buffer from a thin metal such as aluminum or brass - even UHMW will help. Many times the resins and sugars used in glues on MDF or plywood can be corrosive to steel. This will hold true for most solid wood species as well. The only exception that comes to mind are Lignum and some Brazilian Cherry species that have natural oils. Let us know how it turns out.....

 

[mkepke]

If you do decide to go with a wood product for the riser, save yourself some grief and make some sort of shim/buffer from a thin metal such as aluminum or brass - even UHMW will help. Many times the resins and sugars used in glues on MDF or plywood can be corrosive to steel. This will hold true for most solid wood species as well. The only exception that comes to mind are Lignum and some Brazilian Cherry species that have natural oils. Let us know how it turns out.....

i have never heard that 'most plywood and MDF and solid wood is corrosive to steel'..seems to fly in the face of 200 years of western cabinetmaking with steel/iron fasteners (and my own experiences) ..nails, screws, hinges, latches, etc ? I assume I am misunderstanding your comments somehow...

On the other person's question re: MDF versus plywood. I look at any wood product as a material for prototyping, not the 'final and forever' product, so I don't think MDF vs plywood matters. I expect to make my final risers out of 1/4" mild steel plate, if only just for the security of knowing no matter what I turned, the lathe would break before the riser (plus I have a welder and a small milling machine). YMMV

That said, I think a wooden riser should hold up pretty well: it is acting as a spacer clamped between two cast iron assemblies with steel bolts running through the riser to do the clamping. MDF is easy to machine and has good damping properties, but is susceptible to moisture, if you turn a lot of green wood.

my 0.02,
-Mark

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

This has been on my to-do list for years. Of course, there has only been one project where I needed riser blocks in that time- that is until now! I gotta remake the same part!

Remember, for every inch you want to increase the lathe's capacity (diameter), you only need a half inch of riser. Unless you are doing really big vessels, etc. you shouldn't need much of a riser and if you do need a big riser, you are probably trying to do much with an undersized lathe.

 

[Gotcha6]

If you've ever backed an old steel screw or nail out of a piece of wood you'd see what I meant. It is usually rusted unless it's galvanized. Common nails are the worst, but I've also seen hot dipped galvanized nails corroded under certain conditions. Brass screws are far superior. Plywood and MDF glues don't do well with PLAIN steel screws but do fare better with galvanized ones. The principal problem is the porosity of the wood holding moisture against the steel/iron face along with any residual acids in the wood or adhesives. Most construction screws sold today are zinc coated with multiple options on finishes from primer to colors. I only mentioned it because the riser blocks being made will be mated against a long face of a lathe bed and headstock that are probably machined cast iron and VERY porous. JMTCW.