"Hardboard" question

[CDPeters]

OK, so I have a question about "hardboard" referred to here on NCWW and on WW shows on TV - often used for templates, jigs and sometimes drawer bottoms.

Usually when I see the term hardboard applied, the material referred to is a light brown in color. The big boxes have what they call hardboard advertised which is dark brown and is what I grew up calling "Masonite".

1. Is it the same (basically) stuff? I've seen the lighter brown used on the Woodsmith TV show in 1/8", 1/4" and 1/2" sizes - but I've only ever seen "Masonite" in the big boxes in 3/16 and 1/4 - but not really 3/16 or 1/4...
2. If not the same, where do you guys buy the lighter brown stuff I see used for templates and such?

Thanks!
C.

 

[Rick M]

Same stuff.
-- Rick M

 

[Jeff]

I think hardboard is "high density fiberboard (HDF), and Masonite is a specific brand of HDF. Medium density fiberboard (MDF) is often used for jigs and templates because it works and sands/shapes easily. Maybe the HDF is used for drawer bottoms.

My shop MDF is light brown (1/2", 5/8", and 3/4") but my thin clipboard for shop drawings/notes is dark brown and it's probably HDF/Masonite.

2. If not the same, where do you guys buy the lighter brown stuff I see used for templates and such?

Check your local BORGs. Pre-cut panels are usually 2' w x 4' l.

 

[red]

I think the color difference you're referring to is untempered hardboard verses tempered hardboard. They are both the same product except the tempered has an oil coating that is applied and baked on/in as a last step. Hope this helps some.

Red

 

[SteveHall]

I think the color difference you're referring to is untempered hardboard verses tempered hardboard. They are both the same product except the tempered has an oil coating that is applied and baked on/in as a last step.

Right on, I researched this once for oil painting panels. The discovery of hardboard was an accident and involved some linseed oil, so it has been produced that way for a long time. The tiny portion makes it dark.

But modern chemistry now better understands how natural lignin is the predominant strength behind wood. Linseed oil isn't really necessary in hardboard. It does give it a bit of moisture resistance, but for oil painters, the low-grade linseed oil in tempered hardboard can degrade the higher quality oils in artists paints without precautions (over decades). So most artists hardboard panels are simply un-tempered.

For woodworkers, I seriously doubt that hardboard linseed oils cause any problems for the typical work done in hardboard. Especially if you already intend to wax/oil it in jigs and templates. It's interesting that hardboard is now considered an acceptable, stable, and even high quality board for artist paintings since hardboard has a cheap connotation to furniture makers! Solid wood oil painting panels have long term issues with warping and cracking over centuries, just like furniture. Only furniture makers celebrate humidity and temperature management in wood with quirks, pegs, floating panels, mortise and tenons, reveals, and many other joints. Painters generally eschew those right in the middle of a painting.