Hanging Ceiling in shop

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WNC_Dave

New User
David
I am about to start putting up my ceiling in the shop. It is a 10 ft Ceiling and i am putting up OSB (Paited white). I am looking for any recommendations on scaffolding or tool to help get it up there. I have never hung a ceiling before so not sure on any tricks. Let me know what you guys have done to make this easier. I am installing 3 separate circuits of switched outlets for more lights before i hang up the wood and will blow in insulation after i get the ceiling up with 2 different access holes.

Thanks
Dave
 

Gotcha6

Dennis
Staff member
Corporate Member
Rent or borrow a roll around scaffold setup if you can. IDeal work height should be 6 - 6 1/2 feet below ceiling so 3-1/).2 to 4 feet above floor. Lay out the OSB joint setup you plan to use so you know where the lengthwise joints/edges will be & block the trusses along these lines (I assume you have truss roof @ 24" o.c. Install a couple of loose cleat blocks along the string line to support the OSB on one side. If your first & last runs are to be ripped, install them last & start with the first full run. Lift the OSB into place & help secure to the truss with a clamp or other device. Be sure to center end joints on a truss. Nail (or screws preferred) at 8" o.c. Remove cleat block and re use on next run If installing strip fluorescent lights with traditional ballasts, use standoffs to help dissipate heat. Electronic ballasts do not require this.
Enjoy.
 

Phil S

Phil Soper
Staff member
Corporate Member
You may want to consider renting a drywall lift. It is a fairly simple device that will lift and hold any panel on a ceiling up to 12'. Should rent for about $50 a day and will save your back
 

WNC_Dave

New User
David
My shop is a detached Morton Building so the roof is 2x6 framed every 7 feet. I am going to add in 2x4 stingers (guess that is what you would call them) between the 2x6's every 24 inches. Would it be bad to leave the OSB at 8 ft and have the joint not on one of the Joist? I could cut up some 2x4's and run them between the stringers at the joint location, but probably still would not be as strong as the joists.

I did not know the drywall lifts did 10 foot(never seen one except on tv). I will call around today to see if i can rent one next week.

Thanks for the ideas
 

sawman101

Bruce Swanson
Corporate Member
That should be one nice looking shop being a Morton Building. Look forward to seeing pictures! Good luck!:icon_thum
 

Glennbear

Moderator
Glenn
I rented a drywall lift when I singlehandedly sheetrocked my shop ceiling and I found it invaluable. I would hesitate to have the ends of your OSB panels unsupported if for no other reason than the panel seams are unlikely to stay in the same plane if not fastened. There is a darn good reason why OSB manufacturers recommend panel spacing clips. :wsmile:
 

bobby g

Bob
Corporate Member
My shop is a detached Morton Building so the roof is 2x6 framed every 7 feet. I am going to add in 2x4 stingers (guess that is what you would call them) between the 2x6's every 24 inches. Would it be bad to leave the OSB at 8 ft and have the joint not on one of the Joist? I could cut up some 2x4's and run them between the stringers at the joint location, but probably still would not be as strong as the joists.

I did not know the drywall lifts did 10 foot(never seen one except on tv). I will call around today to see if i can rent one next week.

Thanks for the ideas

Dave,

I would use 2X6's from truss to truss. Snap a chalk line perpendicular to the 2X6's. Center the 4' side of the OSB along the 2X6 and line-up the 8' edge to the chalk line. Fasten the OSB with screws into the 2X6's. Continue this across the ceiling. Next, screw a 8" X 8" piece of 3/4" plywood to the OSB (centered between the 2X6's). Hang the next row and add screws into the plywood. Stagger the joints. Add screws into the bottom chord of the trusses. Every sheet will have one row of screws into the truss. This will be very solid.

bobby g
 
Last edited:

CDPeters

Master of None
Chris
2x6 on 7' centers, I might be a little concerned about the load capability of the bottom chords. It might be prudent to check with Morton and make sure the span tables allow that sort of additional load. What is the span of the truss - inside wall to inside wall? The design of the truss will have a big impact too - "W" web, "W" web with King post etc.

Adding "stringers" (technically known as purlins I think) is a must - without consulting span tables, my gut tells me 2 x 6 for the purlins will be required to span 7'. I imagine you will cut the panels down to 7' so the joints land on the truss bottom chords. You will also need blocking between the purlins so that consecutive rows of ceiling sheet will have the end to end joints offset from the previous row by 1/2 sheet.

My 0.02...:gar-Bi
C.
 

dupont6480

New User
Tim
Dave,
Just completed same feat a couple of weeks ago. I used a drywall lift (you can see a picture of it in my thread "Dupont6480 Workshop started" page 6). Two man job and the lift makes it EASY especially with the weight of OSB. I just finished painting the OSB and that was not fun and takes a while. The OSB acts like a sponge (make sure you put the smooth side out) and it took minimum 2 coats of primer (I used KILZ) and I used the cheapest white satin to finish the walls and ceiling. Good luck,
Tim
 

Joe Scharle

New User
Joe
You may have already considered and discarded the option of suspended ceiling, but I like them for shops, basements and offices. By myself with a rolling scaffolding cart and a step ladder, I hung 2500SF in 3 days. Hammer, nails and 50' of 3/8" clear tubing (water level) and a spool of wire. The tiles took another day due to the cutting around edges, corners and columns.
 

Bob the Mainer

New User
Bob
Worst thing you can do is blow in insulation without a vapor barrier. You should install foil face rolls or batts before putting up the osb. I put up a drop ceiling.
 

Ben325e

New User
Ben
I would recommend painting the osb before you hang it. Sure, you'll need touch ups, but things are much easier when they aren't overhead. Borrow a sprayer and it'll be easy peasy!
 

ScottM

Scott
Staff member
Corporate Member
Rent the lift. Last fall my BIL and I did it the hard way, home made stands, because where I live there are no near by rental places. I will NEVER EVER do that again.
 
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