Hanging Cabinets?

[NCTurner]

A few weeks ago, thanks to the generosity of Phil Soper, I acquired about 10' of shop cabinets. I am about to hang them and wanted to know what the best way to get and keep them level is. I was thinking about jointing a 2x and screwing it to the block wall then aligning the cabs. and screwing the up 1 at a time, am I anywhere near the correct line of thought?

 

[RandyJ]

Gary,
French cleats are about the simplest method I have come across.
Google will help you find many references and PDFs of how they work.

Good luck,

PS I don't buy the metal hardware. Just make them from 2x4s...

 

[farmerbw]

Gary, that's how the guys that hung mine for free when we re-did our kitchen did it and then removed the tubba when they were done. You could also do french cleats if you wanted to be able to move them around.

HTH,
Brian.

 

[Bas]

It is definitely easier to hang a cleat or 2x4 level and then matching the cabinet to that. I like french cleats as well, and with a block wall, that's probably the simplest method.

 

[ehpoole]

I'm with these suggestions as well, either a ledger board or a french cleat are the simplest means by which to hang wall cabinets because either provides you with a level support to bear the weight of the cabinets while you screw them down.

A french cleat has to be one of the most clever cabinet hanging solutions that I have ever seen. Just hook the cabinet over the cleat. If you wish to lock things down, put a screw through the cabinet into the lower cleat, then another screw down low on the cabinet into the wall (stud preferred, but even hollow wall anchors will serve to keep the cabinet from lifting from the wall). Or, if the cabinet is sufficiently heavy, you can simply leave it hooked over the cleat and it isn't going anywhere.

The cleats themselves are just some 1x material (1x6 or 1x8 for instance) ripped on the tablesaw with the blade set for a 45-degree angle. You are then left with two angled mating edges that, once secured to the wall, provides you a solid 'hook' that isn't going to go anywhere. You then attach the other half to the upper backside of your cabinets and you simply hook the cabinets over the cleat as you hang them. Long cleats also provide you the benefit of not having to hunt for studs with every cabinet since the wall-cleat can be screwed into studs all along its length with appropriately sized wood screws.

If you want to do them more traditionally then you'll lay out a level line and secure a straight ledger board to studs at each end (and the middle for long runs) aligned for the bottom of your cabinetry. You then have your level bottom and a 'third hand' that will relieve you from supporting the weight of the cabinets while you screw them in place. Just be sure to locate your studs prior to hanging -- make your measurements, then predrill the cabinets so that their screw holes are aligned with studs. Then set the cabinet on the ledger board, align it horizontally on the wall, then screw it into studs (top and bottom). Use washer-head screws or wood screws (likely 2-1/2" minimum to 4" long maximum) with washers to secure your cabinets.

Good luck! I still need to get around to building a bunch of cabinetry for my shop one of these days, so you're already well ahead of me.

PS - Ignore the part about studs, I forgot your wall is concrete block, which makes it much easier to find proper mounting locations -- just use hollow wall anchors (they type with plastic inserts) to secure your screws to the walls -- you also won't need screws nearly as long since you are not penetrating drywall. I don't recommend masonry screws for wall cabinets since they can sometimes loosen up or strip in concrete blocks.

 

[Glennbear]

+1 :icon_thum French cleats. :wsmile:

 

[Jim M.]

I did mine the old fashion way; measured for height, struck a line, leveled each one and then affixed them permanently to the wall. Now I wish I had done the french cleat method. I've been going round and round lately about re-doing mine. Just my two cents. Jim

 

[Rob]

So do you need french cleats on the bottom and the top, or just the top, and have a board on the bottom the same thickness as the cleat.

 

[Mike Davis]

Yes, Rob.

 

[ehpoole]

So do you need french cleats on the bottom and the top, or just the top, and have a board on the bottom the same thickness as the cleat.

The cleat will always be up top. If your cabinets have a flush back (or an inset back that is shallower than your cleat), then you will likely want another board of equal thickness to keep the cabinets plumb and screw the bottom of the cabinet into.

Although you could use a french cleat for the cabinet bottom as well, you would have to be extraordinarily accurate in your spacing between the top and bottom cleats -- both on the wall and your cabinet backs; otherwise one of your cleats won't seat properly and it is critical that the top cleat be properly seated (lest the cabinet topple forward to the floor). As such, only the top cleat is typically used along with a simple spacer board near the bottom to maintain plumb.

I hope this clears up the confusion. Sorry I forgot to mention such in my original post.

 

[Bas]

Although you could use a french cleat for the cabinet bottom as well, you would have to be extraordinarily accurate in your spacing between the top and bottom cleats

No kidding! I made the "mistake" of trying to use upper and lower cleats for my shop cabinets. Boy what a pain. I was worried about not having enough strength with one cleat. In retrospect, I should have made a wide cleat (6" or so) and put two screws into each stud, as opposed to a narrow cleat (3") with only one screw. You learn....

 

[NCTurner]

Thanks guys, just needed to make sure I was on track!:thumbs_up

 

[Skymaster]

Gary;;; If you run into "issues" PM me :gar-Bi Wish I could have a dlooer for every foot of cabs I have intalled :gar-La;:gar-La;
Jack

 

[Gofor]

Here is how I did mine. When I built them I wasn't sure how much weight they wood have in them (48" tall and 21" deep exterior dimensions), so I put a pretty solid cleat up (originally SYP 2 x 8 planed down to 1 1/4" and recessed 1", then cut to give about a 2" x 6" ratio). I built them with space in the back to take the cleat, and then just put a spacer in the bottom which I shimmed so the face frames would be even with each other. I allowed a little clearance between the cabinet back and the wall because the wall was neither flat not plumb.

The cabinet with cleat resting in inset:



The cleat on the wall:



and the cabinets as I now have them spaced (I can move them as needed if I empty them, weight holds them in place.)



They are loaded heavy and have been up for about 3 years now with no problems.

The cabs are made of 3/4" MDO, not MDF. I did not trust MDF to take the weight. (more pics in my gallery)

Go

 

[junquecol]

Gary;;; If you run into "issues" PM me :gar-Bi Wish I could have a dlooer for every foot of cabs I have intalled :gar-La;:gar-La;
Jack

If you had saved them, then you would now have them. I bet you squandered them on foolishness, like rent, power bill, groceries etc, just like I did. I work for my health - Malnutrition and starvation have identical symptoms. Bruce

 

[Skymaster]

:rotflm::rotflm::rotflm::rotflm: TOOLS!!!!! TOOLS!!!!!!! Ya fergots Da Tools!

 

[MichaelCurtis]

So do you need french cleats on the bottom and the top, or just the top, and have a board on the bottom the same thickness as the cleat.

Ripping a single board gives you a set of cleats. One half of the ripped board is attached to the wall. The other half to the cabinets. You would not want to use a second cleat on the bottom of the cabinets, but a spacer piece of wood the same thickness as the cleat keeps the cabinets plumb.

The biggest advantage is when hanging multiple cabinets in a row, if your cleats are mounted straight on the back of your cabinets (I recommend building a jig or two) then your cabinets will end up hung perfectly straight.

 

[petebucy4638]

A few weeks ago, thanks to the generosity of Phil Soper, I acquired about 10' of shop cabinets. I am about to hang them and wanted to know what the best way to get and keep them level is. I was thinking about jointing a 2x and screwing it to the block wall then aligning the cabs. and screwing the up 1 at a time, am I anywhere near the correct line of thought?

If you want cabinets that fit flush with the wall, I'd use a temporary ledger. The pros will screw as many cabinets together as they can lift and support. (Some simple t-jacks can help hold them up once you get them on the ledger) Installing them in groups is faster than trying to glue and screw individual cabinets as they are mounted on the wall. 1/4" tapcon screws can hold up the world and they are fairly easy to use.

If you are connecting to an exterior block wall I would suggest either painting the wall with a Drylock type of water sealant or at the very least using a vapor barrier on the back of the cabinets to reduce any moisture from migrating from the wall into the cabinets. You would not belive how much moisture can make its way through a masonry wall.

Pete