Griz 1023 problem

[sapwood]

My 15 year old Griz TS has a problem with the arbor nut loosening
The frequency has increased and resulted in damage to one blade.:-( Luckily it has always occured powering down the saw, not during a cut.

(1) After cutting power, the nut loosens.
(2) The saw arbor continues to rotate with the blade loose
(3) Lack of resistance on motor fails to engage the "brake" that normally slows blade down
(4) Since the brake doesn't engage the arbor spins freely with the blade slipping for a frightening minute or so. (meanwhile I'm cringing under the extension wing until it stops).

I use a Blade-Loc to hold blade during and apply more than appropriate force to the arbor nut. The blade is secure!

The TS is 15 years old and has some vibration. HF dial indicator doesn't show noticeable wobble in shaft and the arbor, flange, and nut are clean and smooth. I assume vibration is causing the nut to loosen.

Could this indicate worn bearings?
Other suggestions to check?

Sapwood

 

[yellofins]

Sapwood,
Is this the original nut?
I had a similar (not exact) issue on my old Craftsman table saw.
It turned out to be the 20 year old nut had worn and did not hold pressure.
It would actually back off .
Check the nur and the arbor threads for rounding.
That was the only sign of wear I had.
yf

 

[Monty]

Full kerf or thin kerf?

 

[DaveO]

I would definitely check what Yellofin mentioned. Your problem sounds strange to me. Is the arbor nut left-hand threaded? If it is, it would seem the the rotation of the blade would continue to keep the nut tight despite any vibrations. I have only hand tightened my arbor nut on my Griz. 0444Z to find it a struggle to remove with a wrench after making several cuts. Sounds like you should get a new saw for your Birthday:mrgreen:

I hope you figure it out, that doesn't sound like a fun problem to have:saw: :new_shock

Dave

 

[McRabbet]

You may have a worn section on the arbor as well as having a nut that is worn enough to lose it's grip at that constant tightening point. Does this same thing happen if you install a dado set? If you have a blade stabilizer (I use one from Forrest with my WWII on my G1023SLX), then try to use it as an additional spacer to give the nut a new portion of arbor to grab on. If either the dado set or blade with stabilizer still slip, I recommend you get a new nut from Grizzly. Then, if it is the arbor, you could double nut the blade on and I'm sure it would not slip.

My .02 for fixes, but seeing it's your Birthday, be bold and ask LOYL for something you really need -- a new saw.

Rob

 

[windknot]

I have a 1023Z also but no problems. I suggest calling Griz. They are great about support. I bet they can answer the question without hesitation. My $.02 though, is the nut is bad.

 

[sapwood]

Thanks folks, all good suggestions (except buy a new one :lol.

I'll start with Griz, they have always been helpful before. And the nut/arbor definitely could be worn.

Sapwood

Edit oops: full kerf

 

[Steve D]

DOes your Griz have a bell washer? This is a washer that is slightly concave and actually flattens when tightened. My Grizley contractor saw has one and that should also help to prevent the nut from loosening. My saw is almost the same vintage and has see heavy use without ever having the nut come loose. I'm curious to hear what Grizzly has to say.

 

[sapwood]

Well, I chatted with the Grizzly folks. As usual, the support folks are extremely nice. They suggested that the arbor and arbor nut are probably worn. The parts aren't too expensive and the guy said it should be easy to do. I responded that he doesn't know me :lol:

We also agreed I should probably replace bearings, since removing/replacing the cast iron top is the toughest part. I can get all the parts for about $40 and I have successfully replaced top a couple of times.

Hmmm, do I have the courage to tackle this? To date, my success with mechanical repairs has been minimal :eusa_shhh

Sapwood

 

[D L Ames]

Go for it Roger..........you can do it!:icon_thum

D L

 

[DaveO]

I would tackle it:icon_thum If you have removed your CI top before and got everything lined back up right, then you have done the hard part. I wouldn't think that the arbor and bearing replacement could be to difficult. Let me know if you need a hand, not that I have ever done it before, but two people standing around scratching their heads :eusa_thin is always more fun than one:lol:

Dave

 

[gator]

Let me know what day you plan the operation and if I'm not busy, I'll come down and watch too.

George

 

[McRabbet]

Hey Roger, why don't you set up a live web cam so all of us will be able to watch! :lol:

 

[sapwood]

Hey Roger, why don't you set up a live web cam so all of us will be able to watch! :lol:

Excellent idea and I certainly appreciate the offers of assistance. I'm not to proud to accept help. :mrgreen:

However, I fear any live video feeds might be rated XXX for "obscene language content". 8-O

Sapwood

 

[golfdad]

I beleive I would call "Pappa Grizz" and see what he has to say. Thats a pretty scary thought there. My Grizz is abouth the same age as yours but haven't had a problem "yet"???:eusa_thin :eusa_thin

 

[sapwood]

I closely examined the shaft last nite and it appears to be worn on the spot the nut fits for full kerf blade. So, what the heck! Today I ordered nut, arbor shaft, and two bearings. The parts were reasonable ($35) but Grizzly's new shipping surcharge added another ten bucks :-?

Anyway, I look forward to the challenge--though I may be dialing "911 NCWoodworker" if I get in trouble :lol:

Sapwood

 

[mshel]

Roger,

I had to replace the blade adjustment worm gear and arbor bearings a couple years ago for my mentor's saw. We turned the saw upside down on a couple of saw horses and I was able to get everything removed from the bottom side. I think you will have better luck doing it this way as opposed to taking the top off. You will find that some of the bolts and such are still unaccessible from the top side. This is a contractor model isn't it?

MIke

 

[windknot]

I am glad to hear you are going to tackle the job. I replaced bearings in my old Delta contractors saw a few years ago. It is a much lighter duty saw but I had the same anxiety. Post some pics of the process and pointers you learn so there will be a record for the rest of us in the event our grizzes decide they need the same operation.

 

[sapwood]

Mike, it's a 455 lb cabinet saw :lol:

But according to the Griz folks, once I remove the CI top and extension wings the whole assembly comes out after removing a few set screws and I can place it on the work bench! It's gonna be a breeze :mrgreen:

Sapwood

 

[D L Ames]

Mike, it's a 455 lb cabinet saw :lol:

But according to the Griz folks, once I remove the CI top and extension wings the whole assembly comes out after removing a few set screws and I can place it on the work bench! It's gonna be a breeze :mrgreen:

Sapwood

Roger, No problem.........just eat a big bowl of Wheaties in the morning before you start the project.:lol:

D L