Got Planes?

[Claus]

I’m doing some one-handed shaping with a Stanley #4 plane. It works pretty well but I’m wondering if something a bit smaller and lighter might be easier. A block plane is taking small cuts and takes too long. Does anyone have a usable #3 that they might want to part with?

If I don’t find a suitable used one I’m thinking about swallowing hard (real hard, probably choking ) and buying a new Lie-Nielsen #3 partly for this and partly to find out if they are really that great and worth the money. Can anyone offer some advice on the lie-Nielsens in general? Obviously I’d be interested if someone had one of those that they’d sell.

Thanks.

 

[LeftyTom]

Correction: I have a Veritas shoulder plane, which I won with the NCWW raffle. It is hefty, but not heavy. Iron was razor sharp out of the box.

 

[JRedding]

I have a couple Lie-Nielsen’s, though not a 3, and they’re wonderful. My 3s are old Stanleys, but if you want a new one, take a look at Lee Valley and what they offer. I’ve got a number of their different planes (they go by the name Veritas) as well and really like them. If I were in the market, I’d probably go that route.

 

[demondeacon]

I have 4 LN planes - low angle jack, 4-1/2, medium shoulder plane and small router plane. I like them all.

 

[Mike Davis]

I have a Stanley #3 that needs total renovation and I haven’t had time to do it yet. I think it would be $20 as is and maybe $75 put in good working condition. Not grade A collectible, mind you.

 

[Mike Davis]

I have a Lie-Nielsen shoulder plane, which I won with the NCWW raffle. It is hefty, but not heavy. Iron was razor sharp out of the box.

I would be highly interested if you ever think about selling it.

 

[Mike Davis]

I’m doing some one-handed shaping with a Stanley #4 plane. It works pretty well but I’m wondering if something a bit smaller and lighter might be easier. A block plane is taking small cuts and takes too long. Does anyone have a usable #3 that they might want to part with?

If I don’t find a suitable used one I’m thinking about swallowing hard (real hard, probably choking ) and buying a new Lie-Nielsen #3 partly for this and partly to find out if they are really that great and worth the money. Can anyone offer some advice on the lie-Nielsens in general? Obviously I’d be interested if someone had one of those that they’d sell.

Thanks.

If you have time and inclination to visit I’m sure I can help you speed up the work with several low cost solutions.

 

[jlimey]

I’m doing some one-handed shaping with a Stanley #4 plane. It works pretty well but I’m wondering if something a bit smaller and lighter might be easier. A block plane is taking small cuts and takes too long. Does anyone have a usable #3

If I don’t find a suitable used one I’m thinking about swallowing hard (real hard, probably choking ) and buying a new Lie-Nielsen #3 partly for this and partly to find out if they are really that great and worth the money. Can anyone offer some advice on the lie-Nielsens in general?

I would probably try a large block plane for one handed use. The Stanley 65 has a blade that is only 1/8th inch narrower than the #3.

Can I ask why you have to use only one hand -too small or awkward to hold in a vise?

The LN bench planes work very well out of the box with probably only a slight honing of the blade. The iron #3 is $345 so that is a lot of money but it will not frustrate you.

 

[LeftyTom]

I would be highly interested if you ever think about selling it.

Make me an offer, or we could do some horse trading.

 

[LeftyTom]

I would be highly interested if you ever think about selling it.

Correction: it is a Veritas. Still interested? I can use a good block plane.

 

[Claus]

Can I ask why you have to use only one hand

I’m shaping round tenons on octagonal chair parts. Planing the end while holding and spinning/rotating the workpiece with the other hand.

 

[Mike Davis]

I’m shaping round tenons on octagonal chair parts. Planing the end while holding and spinning/rotating the workpiece with the other hand.

I would suggest a shaving horse and spoke shave or block plane.
You are welcome to visit and try a few different solutions that I use.

 

[Mike Davis]

Correction: it is a Veritas. Still interested? I can use a good block plane.

Let's get together and explore possibilities.

 

[LeftyTom]

Let's get together and explore possibilities.

I am retired, so when is good for you?

 

[Mike Davis]

I am retired, so when is good for you?

I am also retired so any time is usually ok.

 

[LeftyTom]

I am also retired so any time is usually ok.

How about 10am Friday AUG29?

 

[mdbuntyn]

It sounds like you're using one of the methods that Chris Schwarz teaches.

I have a Type 11 #3 that only needs to be sharpened before being put into service. Send me a message if you want pictures and to talk price.

… and partly to find out if they are really that great and worth the money. Can anyone offer some advice on the lie-Nielsens in general?

Both of those things are individual judgements. I think Lie-Nielsen planes are great and worth the money, while others think they aren't any better than a well-tuned vintage Stanley.

Your best bet is to find someone who'll let you test drive one. Maybe someone at the Greenville Woodworkers Guild can help you out

 

[Bill Anderson]

I’m doing some one-handed shaping with a Stanley #4 plane. It works pretty well but I’m wondering if something a bit smaller and lighter might be easier. A block plane is taking small cuts and takes too long. Does anyone have a usable #3 that they might want to part with?

If I don’t find a suitable used one I’m thinking about swallowing hard (real hard, probably choking ) and buying a new Lie-Nielsen #3 partly for this and partly to find out if they are really that great and worth the money. Can anyone offer some advice on the lie-Nielsens in general? Obviously I’d be interested if someone had one of those that they’d sell.

Thanks.

The best approach is to go to tool shows, pick up a series of No. 4 STANLEY planes (no off brands}. Sharpen each with a different camber (ranging from “not sure if there is a camber” to camber looking like that on your thumbnail!) This will give you smoothing plane action, jack plane action, and scrub plane action. Very practical and way cheaper than L/N planes. Unless you are doing timber making, etc., this is a great size. Sharpen to a razor cut, center the camber carefully, and open the mouth to a useful opening (1-2 mm for a smoothing plane, 5-6 mm for a ha\\jack plane, wide open for a scrub plane.) Do not hesitate to use two hands—one on the knob and one on the handle. If you are one-handed, then a Stanley block plane with an adjustable toe/mouth sole, adjusting the mouth opening to meet the thickness of shavings you want, will work also, albeit slightly more work involved!

 

[Gene Turner]

I’m doing some one-handed shaping with a Stanley #4 plane. It works pretty well but I’m wondering if something a bit smaller and lighter might be easier. A block plane is taking small cuts and takes too long. Does anyone have a usable #3 that they might want to part with?

If I don’t find a suitable used one I’m thinking about swallowing hard (real hard, probably choking ) and buying a new Lie-Nielsen #3 partly for this and partly to find out if they are really that great and worth the money. Can anyone offer some advice on the lie-Nielsens in general? Obviously I’d be interested if someone had one of those that they’d sell.

Thanks.

Claus: I have a number of #3 planes ready to use. You are welcome to look at them to make a decision. PM me for my address.

 

[Wiley's Woodworks]

If you made your Friday 9 (today) meeting, your problem is solved. Mike can figure out anything. I'm guessing your real problem the way you're working now is that the octagonal leg is rolling on you when you can only press down with one hand. Any plane stroke that goes across the center line of the leg makes it roll. Did I guess right?

Make yourself a 90* trough long enough to support most of the leg. Make it wide enough (I suggest 3 1/2", i.e. use a scrap 2 X 4) so it won't wobble and cut a V notch down the middle. When you lay the octagon in the V, a face will lay flat on each side of the V. This should make your working piece stable with one hand so you could use a larger plane effectively.