Got another question

[meika123]

You guys probably think you've opened "Pandora's Box" after all the questions I've been asking. But, the fact remains, you give such good, logical advise, I feel I need to get your input. :eusa_clap :eusa_clap
OK, all the mutual admiration aside, :icon_thum here goes.
I am getting ready to start buttoning up my Blower housing, and I was just curious what you guys would recommend to close up the two halves of the housing. The DC I built before, I used a part of a "Stop Sign" to close it up. What do you think I should use with this monstrous motor and impeller. I realize if it comes loose, I would prefer to be in another area code.
Thanks,

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

I would go with nothing thinner than 20 gauge sheet metal. Other than that, just about anything that bends should be ok. If the impeller comes apart, nothing you could use to fabricate it will stop it. Remember, ClearVue is using (1/8"?) PETG plastic. Bolt the two halves together with long 1/4" bolts.

 

[McRabbet]

Dave,

You need to provide a little more information about your blower housing before we can give you a recommendation. Since I believe that Ed Morgano provided you with drawings of the blower housing they use for the CV Max, let's assume that you made the flat faces from either 3/4" plywood or MDF. Here is a side view of the typical CV blower from their website photo gallery:

They use 7-1/2" long 1/4-20 bolts into t-nuts that pull the two halves of the housing together -- a 1/8" wide x 1/4" deep groove about 1" in from the edge in each face holds a long strip of PETG plastic that forms the smooth perimeter of the housing. Note that the bolts are outside this plastic. The motor plate is screwed into the top, with the impeller passing through a hole in the blower face slightly larger than the impeller diamter. On the lower face, a rabbetted hole accepts the plate for the top of cyclone itself and it has the center down tube that exhaust air from the center of the cyclone. The blower outlet is at the back right of the photo and is roughly 6" x 8". CV provides an MDF elbow that fits this opening and it transitions to the Wynn Environmental filters.

Dave -- you could make your blower like this and substitute 1/8" Lexan for the outside. It bends easily for the majority of the perimeter -- the only challenge is the acute bend needed on the sharp turn at the inside of the outlet. PETG will bend that far with heat applied, but I have not tried it with Lexan.

 

[meika123]

Dave,

You need to provide a little more information about your blower housing before we can give you a recommendation. Since I believe that Ed Morgano provided you with drawings of the blower housing they use for the CV Max, let's assume that you made the flat faces from either 3/4" plywood or MDF. Here is a side view of the typical CV blower from their website photo gallery:

They use 7-1/2" long 1/4-20 bolts into t-nuts that pull the two halves of the housing together -- a 1/8" wide x 1/4" deep groove about 1" in from the edge in each face holds a long strip of PETG plastic that forms the smooth perimeter of the housing. Note that the bolts are outside this plastic. The motor plate is screwed into the top, with the impeller passing through a hole in the blower face slightly larger than the impeller diamter. On the lower face, a rabbetted hole accepts the plate for the top of cyclone itself and it has the center down tube that exhaust air from the center of the cyclone. The blower outlet is at the back right of the photo and is roughly 6" x 8". CV provides an MDF elbow that fits this opening and it transitions to the Wynn Environmental filters.

Dave -- you could make your blower like this and substitute 1/8" Lexan for the outside. It bends easily for the majority of the perimeter -- the only challenge is the acute bend needed on the sharp turn at the inside of the outlet. PETG will bend that far with heat applied, but I have not tried it with Lexan.

This is exactly how I built both the original DC blower housing as well as the current one. 3/4" plywood with a routed groove 1/4" deep around the perimeter of the top and bottom. I'm bolting the two halves together with 3/8" carriage bolts 8" long with flat washers and lock-nuts. The motor and impeller are mounted directly to the top panel. That's why I was thinking that by having the top of the cyclone as well as the top of the cone supported, I wouldn't need to support the motor separately.
Is your motor mounted to an I-Beam or what is that?
Thanks

 

[McRabbet]

David -- this is not my CV, but a picture of one from the ClearVue Cyclones website (and yes, it is hung from a pair of I-beams). The majority of CV's are wall-mounted, with a hanging plate that bolts to the motor plate and it then slides into the wall brackets (see pages 7-8 of the Install booklet). This configuration puts the hanging bracket at the approximate center of gravity of the motor and keeps the whole assembly from being top-heavy. If I were you, I'd replicate this type of support if you can.

 

[meika123]

David -- this is not my CV, but a picture of one from the ClearVue Cyclones website (and yes, it is hung from a pair of I-beams). The majority of CV's are wall-mounted, with a hanging plate that bolts to the motor plate and it then slides into the wall brackets (see pages 7-8 of the Install booklet). This configuration puts the hanging bracket at the approximate center of gravity of the motor and keeps the whole assembly from being top-heavy. If I were you, I'd replicate this type of support if you can.

After I made the reply, I realized it wasn't your CV. I have thoroughly perused the Clear Vue site and I am aware of his installation instructions. I would have to totally rebuild my blower housing to support the housing as he recommends, however. May do it anyway though.
Thanks Rob.