Good miter saw

[Gofor]

Looking to buy a new miter saw. I managed to destroy the blade guard on my 26 yr old Craftsman 8 1/4" slider. and find that parts are few and far between for that model (no blade guards for certain). It has been a phenomenal saw for me in accuracy and capacity (although it won't handle 4" thick lumber). 12" at 90 degrees and 8 1/2 at 45 miter with a depth of cut stop that I have used to rough out dados on 12" wide shelf unit sides). Only a single bevel, it still is the most used corded power tool in my inventory, So am starting my search for a replacement.

So far, it appears to me that a 12" non-slider or 10" slider would meet my needs. Probably will upgrade to dual bevel. I like a lot of features on the DeWalt DW716 12" non slider DW717 10" slider. Have worked so long without the laser light cutting indicator that that is not a necessity, so unsure if the 10" at $100 more is a better choice. (Couldn't find a 10" Dewalt slider without the $200 XLS laser. I also understand dust collection is miserable on most of them)

One thing I have seen in the reviews is that the 12" may be underpowered for a fine tooth blade in 8/4 hardwood. Also have heard 10" is more accurate than 12".

I like the 10" size due to the ability to use table saw blades, and the cheaper cost, but not hard over on it as I have special blades for the current 8" (which are hard to find around here also).

So, looking for some insight from users as to brand and models. Would like it to be used for both construction and furniture type work, although I don't do much crown moulding, etc. Price is a consideration, so anything over $500 would have to magnificent for me to justify it (getting too long in the tooth and am on fixed income).

Appreciate any wisdom you can impart, even if its that I am searching for a Unicorn.

Go

 

[cpw]

I don't have extensive experience with a number of brands, but of the few miter saws I have used (a couple of Deltas and a Hitachi SCMS) nothing has compared with my 12" Bosch Axial Glide. I found all the stops and detents 100% accurate out of the box and have not had to adjust it yet. That said, it is possible to deflect the axial arm slightly if you just manhandle it like a gorilla, but if you just "let the tool do the work," it's fine.

It has a simple lockout lever to disable the glide, turning it into a simple compound miter saw if need be. The glide has a tension adjustment, if the smoothness is bothersome because you are used to the resistance of bar slides. And I just made a ZCI with a replaceable insert which should help with accracy and the minimize tear out.

If you shop around it may not blow your budget by much: https://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-...mWNZDmzRBAe1mlavHOdeSQ9dxtBr6p9RoC1yQQAvD_BwE

 

[KenOfCary]

I was very happy with my DeWalt 12" dual-bevel slider, but I've recently replaced it with a Festool Kepex. Won't look back - bought the Kapex as a refurb for about 3/4 the price of original. Nothing wrong with the DeWalt, the Kapex is just better and has more features.

 

[JackLeg]

Plus one for the Bosch. I have the 12: Compound Slider and I am very satisfied with it. Plenty of power for anything I throw at it.

 

[patlaw]

Like Ken, I have a Kapex and have no complaints. If I had it to do over again, I'd probably buy the Bosch. It is a nice saw.

 

[Barry W]

Mark, I have been pleased with a 12" refurbished Hitachi SCMS I bought from Big Sky Tool. They often have great sales and sometimes have "free shipping." My experience with refurbished tools is very good, they have received extra attention from a tech and normally arrive pre-adjusted.

 

[Bas]

I bought the 10" version of the Bosch slider, CM10GD. It's a very nice saw, the glide mechanism is very smooth and the cut quality is great. Mine was not perfect out of the box, but it was fairly simple to get both the vertical and horizontal 90 degrees dialed in.

The main reason for going with the Bosch was the footprint. Unlike regular sliders, the Bosch only needs a standard workbench depth of 24". That's a big plus. Dust collection is OK, not stellar, but I plan to build a box around it to catch most of it. Again, not having the slider bars protrude 184 feet behind the saw makes that a lot easier.

I got mine for exactly $500 from Acme tools when they had their $50 off special for Black Friday. It's currently $550 - slightly over your budget.

 

[Jim M.]

Another vote for Bosch, I have a 3915 10" slider and love it very good power. I went with the 10" for the same reason you stated ability to use blades for multiple machines.

 

[JimD]

I have not used it but the reviews I have seen of the Delta glide saw are good and rank it with the Bosch. I requires an inch less behind the saw on the bench. I think the price difference is only on the order of $50, however.

What I use is a Hitachi dual bevel non slider. I also have a small radial arm saw but usually use my track saw for cuts beyond the capacity of the Hitachi. I use an Osborne gauge on my table saw a lot too. But for long and/or heavy pieces it is the CMS, RAS, or track saw.

 

[Pop Golden]

​I have sold and evaluated tools for a good many years. I am not a fan of a slider. The guide rods on most saws are not stable enough to resist side-to-side movement of the head of the saw. I have a 12 in. Bosch dual bevel non slider. It's a very good saw. For larger cuts I use my RAS. NOTE: If you're using a slider or a RAS use a -5 degree blade. It counters the walk-out encountered with normal blades. I didn't know that for all the years I used my RAS until my club had a talk from a blade rep. It made a real difference between holding the saw back and just pulling it into the work.

Pop

 

[Gofor]

Thank you for all the replies so far. I really like the idea of the glide (i.e Bosch, Delta) design but am wary of the large percentage of negative reviews, especially at the price point: It appears you either get a good one, or a bad one with the defect in the glide mechanism that is not correctable. Not sure I want to spend $500+ and get a lemon, with all the return hassles.

It appears that Ridgid MS255SR (10") and R441 (12") get very good reviews and have a pretty nice price point. They also seems to have all the features I want excepting the glide design. Anyone have any experience with one?

Go

 

[Roy G]

To make your decision even more difficult, let me bring up track saws. On Youtube, I have seen several videos of using the track saw as a cut off saw. Seems to work fine and can also do rips. Of course, most of the saws are Festool, but several of the above entries give the brand a good rating. i have a Hitachi 8" slider and you do need to check the settings but it gets the job done for me.

Roy G

 

[chris_goris]

Plus one for the Bosch. I have the 12: Compound Slider and I am very satisfied with it. Plenty of power for anything I throw at it.

+1 for the Bosch! great saw!

 

[Gotcha6]

I'm partial to the smaller diameter blade SCM saws because my use for them is primarily job site related. Having said that, I find I can achieve 98% of the cuts I need to make with it with the advantage that it is much lighter to take out and put back in the truck/gang box at the end of the day. This counts up when you're 66 with back, 1 shoulder, and 1 knee replacement surgery on your med history........
As for in shop use, a 10" compound miter does the heavy lifting along with a RAS for rough cuts and a couple of table saws set up properly.

 

[chris_goris]

I'm partial to the smaller diameter blade SCM saws because my use for them is primarily job site related. Having said that, I find I can achieve 98% of the cuts I need to make with it with the advantage that it is much lighter to take out and put back in the truck/gang box at the end of the day. This counts up when you're 66 with back, 1 shoulder, and 1 knee replacement surgery on your med history........
As for in shop use, a 10" compound miter does the heavy lifting along with a RAS for rough cuts and a couple of table saws set up properly.

I have the Bosch GCM12SD and it is HEAVY.... I have it mounted to the Bosch folding stand that helps but I cant imagine taking this thing on and off a truck daily.

 

[Gofor]

As for the weight, my current saw has a cast iron base and slide head, weighing in at about 85 lbs. I have it mounted on an older version of the Ridgid MSUV (miter saw utility vehicle which is a table that collapses into a dolley mode for transport), Although heavy, I can wheel it around to the jobs around the house, set it up in the shop or garage, and although not fun, can wrestle it into the back of my pick-up when necessary. I also have a trailer I can wheel it up into. I am not a professional, so very seldom need to take it away from the house. So weight is not a major issue for my situation.

If I get the Bosch, it will mainly sit on a 24" wide workbench in the shop, and be moved to the MSUV only when needed. If I get a slider, it will be on the MSUV and I will pop it up when needed in the shop or otherwise like I do now. Either one will be taller than what I now have, so will be somewhat more of an obstruction when the MSUV is folded into the dolley mode.

I do want the ability to cut 4x lumber, though. That is what I was doing when I destroyed the blade guard on my old one, and the blade guard got trapped between the blade and the work. I was cutting the half lap slots for a replacement mail box post and got in a hurry racing daylight to get the new post made an put up before dark (an unknown someone snapped the old one off at ground level the night before.) Although I might consider another 8' - 8 1/2", I don't want to drop to a 7 1/4". Don't do enough construction type work to warrant having two saws. If I did do a lot of that work, I would probably be looking at the Makitas, or battery powered.

I don't have nor have room for a RAS, although that would definitely change my parameters for a miter saw if I did have one. As for the track saws, I have a 6' and an 8' sled I built for my circular saw, which I use to initially piece out sheet goods. Although this limits me to about 1" thick through cuts, it is pretty accurate. Guess it wouldn't hurt me to upgrade the blades I have for it though so I could use it to establish the side cuts for long dados. My hand router plane makes quick work of cleaning out the trough and I usually use it anyway to ensure I have a full depth flat clean bottom even when I cut dadoes with the TS.

Speaking of blades, any advice on good blades with a -5 degree rake? I haven't used one as I usually pull the slider all the way out, drop the head, and push the blade through the cut, so haven't experienced a problem with climbing. Guess I might have been doing that wrong all along.

Go

 

[Pop Golden]

Hi Mark, The way you described your slider use by pulling it all the way out & cutting on the return stroke is what has been described to me as correct. On the RAS that might be a good idea, but us old geezers just pull it through the work. Old habits die slow. I know that both Freud & CMT have a -5 blade. I use the Freud. It appears to work well.

Pop

 

[chris_goris]

Hi Mark, The way you described your slider use by pulling it all the way out & cutting on the return stroke is what has been described to me as correct. On the RAS that might be a good idea, but us old geezers just pull it through the work. Old habits die slow. I know that both Freud & CMT have a -5 blade. I use the Freud. It appears to work well.

Pop

Yes, you should NEVER climb cut with a RAS or one of these Compound miter saws......

 

[Gotcha6]

If you decide to buy a saw that doesn't have a laser blade guide, to to Harbor Freight and get one of the aftermarket devices that takes the place of the blade washer. It uses watch style batteries and is turned on by the centrifugal force of the motor when it begins to rotate. A must for the money.

 

[Charlie]

Dewalt has an add on light option that lights up both sides of the blade, showing the exact location of the blade. Works with any blade width. Far superior to any laser IMO.
Very easy to install. Remove a piece of plastic on top of the handle and replace with light unit. Looks like it came on the saw. Very first class design.
I am surprised that other manufacturers haven't done the same. (May be patented)?