Glue Squeeze Out: Scrape Or Flatten First?

[LeftyTom]

So I have competed gluing up a few panels, and there is minor squeeze out on two. Then the question comes to mind:

Do you prefer to scrape the glue off, then flatten the panels using a router jig? What are the drawbacks to flattening the panels first, then scraping any glue squeeze out?

 

[Canuck]

Personally, I make sure that boards for the panel glue up are flat and consistent thicknesses. I then use 3/8 dowels for alignment as I do the glue up. I then scrape the squeeze out when it is a rubbery texture. I'll then send the panel through the planer taking very light cuts. (If too wide for the planer bed, then its off to my wide drum sander.) I found through experience that dowels for alignment in addition to a "caul" or two is a winning combination to keeping panels flat. I also learned to NOT over tighten clamps to prefer panel cuppjng

Wayne

 

[LeftyTom]

Personally, I make sure that boards for the panel glue up are flat and consistent thicknesses. I then use 3/8 dowels for alignment as I do the glue up. I then scrape the squeeze out when it is a rubbery texture. I'll then send the panel through the planer taking very light cuts. (If too wide for the planer bed, then its off to my wide drum sander.) I found through experience that dowels for alignment in addition to a "caul" or two is a winning combination to keeping panels flat. I also learned to NOT over tighten clamps to prefer panel cuppjng

Wayne

I use cauls and pipe clamps, so at worst one side will be flat. The other side may have a seam with 1/64” difference in height. Just enough to be felt by the hand.

I wipe up any squeeze out with a wet cloth. I use a scraper with a carbide edge for any touch up.

 

[kooshball]

I always scrape or hand plane before running anything through a machine to keep the squeeze out from potentially gumming up an abrasive. A card scraper or cheap jack plane makes quick work of it.

 

[Rwe2156]

I use cauls and pipe clamps, so at worst one side will be flat. The other side may have a seam with 1/64” difference in height. Just enough to be felt by the hand.

I wipe up any squeeze out with a wet cloth. I use a scraper with a carbide edge for any touch up.

This is exactly the way I do clean up. You will hear people say never clean up wet glue glue using a wet rag b/c the residue will get in the grain and interfere with finishing. I can say this is not true if it’s done properly. They say you wait till it’s rubbery or dry. Who sets a timer, and letting it dry is asking for a tear out disaster. That said, with panels, if you’re thicknessing after glue up it’s not an issue. In fact you don’t even need to clean anything at all.

If I could say something about panels, panels can be stressful especially for a beginner. One of the biggest mistakes is milling boards to size prior to glue up. That said, if you are forced to buy S4S lumber you have no choice. That forces them to get a perfect joint, so they have to resort to alignment aids such as dowels, biscuits or heaven forbid, they buy a Domino.

I keep panels thick and mill to final thickness after glue up. If the board are straight I will even glue up rough lumber. A router flattening jig is fine, often I can flatten one side with hand planes. I have a 20” planer, anything wider than that I use a drum sander with 50 or even 36 grit sandpaper.

You are cleaning up squeeze out exactly how I do it, except I scrape it off first, then clean up with a wet rag (do not use paper towels).

I’ve never worried about what little dried glue may remain or missed in either a planer or drum sander.

 

[Gofor]

I don't wet wipe anymore. It creates too much chance for some of the diluted glue to penetrate the surrounding wood, causing problems during finishing. For large panels too big for the thickness planer, I go the extra step of running painters' tape about 1/32 from the edge of the panels before gluing. I peel it off after gluing and use a sharp chisel (bevel down) to shave off the excess when it gets to a rubbery state. (I do the same for any epoxy patching of knot holes, etc). I use a sharp card scraper when needed.

In essence: I scrape, then plane. Not sure if a bit of glue squeeze out on the opposite side of the panel would affect how flat the panel laid on the planer table.

 

[ChemE75]

FWIW, I have seen wiped and/or wet wiped glue affect stain and affect cherry as it naturally darkens. Maybe just a matter of sufficient wiping. Regardless, to be on the safe side I avoid wiping most glue ups unless I must, like a smear of glue. I normally don’t over apply glue so normally only have fine little beads of squeeze out. I try to get to the beads before fully hardened with a pull scraper. If it does harden, and if I’ve milled the boards myself to oversize, then I lightly scrape with putty knife or pull scraper, then put through planer. Wider panels that won’t fit planer, I’ll take boards down closer to desired thickness, then carefully use a scraper which I do anyway to ensure a smooth seam. I got some old pull scrapers, various putty knives, some I’ve bevel ground the edges and a couple of old wide chisels I might use - whatever best fits the situation and avoids tear out.

 

[Charles Lent]

I have usually let the glue (Titebonds) partially set up, and then scrape them off. When in a corner, a plastic soda straw with the end of it pressed into the corner so that it takes on the shape of the corner, then pushed along the joint and it will serve as a scoop to clear the partially hardened glue. If your cheap, like me, keep scissors nearby and cut the glue filled end of the straw off so you can use the rest again. When done right, there is almost no sanding or scraping required. Let it set up until hard and these methods won't work.

Charley

 

[Hmerkle]

Tom,
(not speaking from experience)
But, if you are flatening with a router jig, you may not need to worry about glue squeeze out. I belive our history of scraping glue is based on gluing up a panel and planeing it and the problem was people had planer knife chipping supposedly from the glue. I think even now with carbide that risk would be much less and in a router falttneing jig even less.
Again, not speaking from experience, just assuming the mechanics of the differeing methods.

 

[Wiley's Woodworks]

Dealing with squeeze out starts with controlling how much glue you put into the joint before clamping. Squeeze out is excess glue, i.e. you put too much in the joint to start.

My technique is to use a serrated plastic knife from one of your fast food orders and spread the glue on one surface of the joint only, then clamp firmly but not crush-a-hickory-nut tightly. You should see tiny beads of squeeze out along the seam. Let it dry till rubbery, then scrape off with a moderately sharp, cheap chisel. If the joint forms a right angle corner, cut a soda straw to a point (like a quill pen) and scoop out the squeeze out while it's still wet and fresh.

 

[Rwe2156]

To all who think cleaning glue with a wet rag interferes with finishing -- I'd like to dispel that idea and say if you are having this problem, you're not doing it right.

I've been cleaning squeeze out using a wet rag for a long time and never have an issue. I'd like to explain why it works for me and maybe someone will see why it doesn't work for them.

You need rags (not paper towels) and 1 or 2 pails of water, plus some dry rags. A toothbrush for corners.

My procedure is:

1. remove as much as possible with a putty knife
2. use a rag and clean, rinsing between at least 3 times.
3. follow with a clean rag and clean water
4. wipe with a dry rag

If I have a situation where I know clean up will be difficult, I'll go with hide glue.

The other thing I'd like to dispel is the idea that water will weaken the glue joint. It's simply not true if the joint is tight.

Personally I believe in applying adequate glue, not what I think will cause the lease squeeze out. The only exception to this is when gluing frame and panel doors, where excess glue can creep out and adhere the panel.

In the end you have to do what works for you, but getting the glue cleaned up right away so you don't have to go back is a good way to work.

 

[drw]

I enjoy reading posts such as this, it is always interesting to see how many ways there are to "skin a cat". Moreover, since I know that most of the folks that have posted here do quality work, it would seem that quality is not compromised irrespective of the technique used. That said, I always like to see a modest amount of squeeze out along the length of the joint to assure the joint is not glue starved. I typically use a small plastic spatula to scrape the wet squeeze out followed by a moist paper towel. Typically, I will level panels in a drum sander. I have learned from experience that if you do use a drum sander, remove as much glue as possible prior to sanding...too much glue can quickly ruin sand paper.

 

[Rwe2156]

I feel I have to respond to the misconceptions. Yes, you will have a problem if you use paper towels and/or an inadequate amount of water.

Using a wet rag and plenty if water - done properly - will not leave a residue. See my previous post.

As I said previously, if you use a wet rag and follow up 2-3 times, then do a final wipe with clean water then a dry rag, I can guarantee there will be no residue.

The water won’t be there long enough to worry about penetrating, so mixing with alcohol isn’t necessary.

I am confident if you give it a try it will work.

 

[danmart77]

After reading all of the inputs in the thread, I am still amazed at how resistant to hide glue people can be. If you use the Old Brown Glue or you make your own hot hide glue and put a teaspoon of salt in the mix, you can work slowly and not be rushed. Guess what?-- no worries about glue squeez out and finish surprises later. Animal protein glue does not behave like plastic glue and you can wipe it off when you clamp it or sand it off with no evidence of glue having been on the surface.

The first piece is from a log pulled up out of the pond on a friend's land and the second is a cabinet made entirely with hide glue and colored with water based brown from walnut shells. I don't worry about fussing with the glue line when it happens. A simple pass with the toothing plane and I'm golden.

See any glue marks? The last photo is the builder and Alagash White.

Good Luck and give up the Titebond
Dan