GF Outdoor oil ... sticky second coat

[Dorm]

Hi all and happy new year!

On Monday I applied a coat of General Finishes Outdoor [FONT=&amp](oil)[/FONT] to a project and per instructions on the can, allowed it to dry 10-15 minutes and wiped off any excess with a clean cloth. It has been humid, so I allowed 2 days to dry before applying a second coat. Prior to applying second coat, the surface (white oak) was dry and had a somewhat 'waxy' feel, but was in no way wet or sticky.

This afternoon, I applied a second coat ... waited ~10 minutes and began to wipe off any excess. As soon as I started wiping down, I noticed how hard the oil 'grabbed' my rag ... there was no smooth wiping off the second coat, rather it was more like scrubbing down the wood. I thought perhaps I'd waited too long before starting to wipe it down as it was really sticky. After several passes, excess oil was gone and ready for final coat in another couple of days.

My questions ... could I have waited too long to wipe off the second coat? Is a second coat of this type material generally sticky? Would the second coat 'soften' the previous coat, allowing the oil to penetrate?

Or, is this simply much to do about nothing ?

Ciao ... Dorm

 

[zdorsch]

I wonder if you may have put the second coat on to soon given dry time is 24-36 hours in ideal conditions (50-70% humidity), but longer if humidity is over 80%. That info was in a small note on the page you linked that I nearly missed when I read it.

 

[Jeff]

The GF Outdoor oil finish is primarily linseed oil and a few hydrocarbon type solvents (like mineral spirits) to thin it and allow it to penetrate into the wood. Linseed oil cures (dries) by oxidation with the oxygen in the air and not by evaporation so the initial wiping off has to be very thorough or it won't cure (dry) properly even over several days. Porous woods like oak will often ooze the uncured linseed oil over several hours so several wiping off steps may be required.

It has been humid, so I allowed 2 days to dry before applying a second coat.

Prior to applying second coat, the surface (white oak) was dry and had a somewhat 'waxy' feel, but was in no way wet or sticky.

Did you wipe it again with a rag before the second coat and look at the residue on the rag?

 

[Dorm]

Thanks Jeff, and yes I did wipe it down prior to the second coat. I used a clean rag with just a touch of mineral spirits (you could barely smell) to simply wipe off any dust or lint. After your comment, I recall from yesterday how the wood 'oozed' the oil as I had to wipe the thing 3-4 times to get the oil off. Given that I left a fan blowing on it to help with drying ... don't know if that helps but it seemed smart at the time.

Given these comments, I'll be sure it's very dry and wipe down prior to applying the final coat. Thanks again ...

Ciao ... Dorm

 

[Jeff]

Carry on. So you've applied the second coat of GF Outdoor oil finish and wiped it down several times with clean rags?

I'll be sure it's very dry and wipe down prior to applying the final coat.

What will you use for the final coat? More of the same or a sealer coat of some sort? BTW, I'm curious why did you choose the GF Outdoor Oil finish to begin with instead of plain old BLO or pure Tung oil diluted with mineral spirits?

I like this tung oil and the instructions are similar to linseed oil.

https://www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/oils/pure-tung-chinawood/

 

[Dorm]

Jeff, I have not had good results with outdoor items ... in particular the finish. Things I've made either start to mold, mildew and/or the finish deteriorates (sunlight) rather quickly. I believe I chose this GF outdoor off the recommendation from the Klingspor shop in Cary. It includes mildewcide to prevent mold or mildew and UV protection for sunlight. It appears very similar to a Waterlox product. I have thought about stopping with the GF second coat and do a final coat with perhaps a Sikkens clear or some type marine varnish.

The piece I'm making is of fumed White Oak material. It's a table/cabinet to house a Green Egg grill, and will be outside beneath a covered porch but still be exposed to the elements ... humidity, dampness, cold, moisture and indirect sunlight.

If there is a suggestion for better finish material - I'd appreciate it. The piece goes to my daughter and son-in-law and I really want it to last and maintain its appearance. I've attached a shot of the piece.

Ciao ... Dorm

 

[Jeff]

You're not alone with outdoor finishes that won't hold up and even the best won't last very well beyond a few years.

Sikkens products are well rated for outdoor use too. I like Epifanes Marine Spar varnish.

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=92

Jeff, I have not had good results with outdoor items ... in particular the finish. Things I've made either start to mold, mildew and/or the finish deteriorates (sunlight) rather quickly. I believe I chose this GF outdoor off the recommendation from the Klingspor shop in Cary. It includes mildewcide to prevent mold or mildew and UV protection for sunlight. It appears very similar to a Waterlox product. I have thought about stopping with the GF second coat and do a final coat with perhaps a Sikkens clear or some type marine varnish.

The piece I'm making is of fumed White Oak material. It's a table/cabinet to house a Green Egg grill, and will be outside beneath a covered porch but still be exposed to the elements ... humidity, dampness, cold, moisture and indirect sunlight.

If there is a suggestion for better finish material - I'd appreciate it. The piece goes to my daughter and son-in-law and I really want it to last and maintain its appearance. I've attached a shot of the piece.

Ciao ... Dorm