OK, so first, apologies as it's been since the end of August since my last post on this project. Suffice it to say that progress has been slow and piece-miel!
When last we checked - the carcase had been dry fit and ready to glue up. So here is the carcase all glued up:
Next, I attacked the drawers. Here are the drawer sides laid out in matched pairs as I'm milling the joinery:
And the stock blanks from which the drawer fronts will be cut:
Here's the table saw set up with the shop-made tenoning jig to mill the drawer front dados:
Dry fit of the center book drawer:
Close-up of the front-side joinery. This took quite a bit of fiddling with the setup to get nice tight joints:
And the back to side joinery:
Three drawers finished, only 6 more to go!
Once I got all these frames finished, I got so focused I forgot to shoot pictures of milling the grooves for the bottoms. The bottoms are 0.120" hardboard - fits perfect in a 1/8" saw kerf. Here's the first drawer in the glue-up jig I made to keep the drawers square and flat while the glue set:
Once a the drawers where glued up, I started fitting each one for as uniform a gap as I could get. This was done by shaving the bottoms on the table saw:
And here's the cabinet with all the drawers in place:
Next, glue up the front panel:
And the top lid:
Today, I milled the bead detail on the bottom of the drawer front. After seeing Dan's post on scratch stocks the other day, I decided to try that for a smaller bead than the smallest beading bit I had (1/8" radius), but I couldn't get a decent bead in this highly figured oak, so I fell back on the 1/8" radius beading bit. The bead is a tad bit larger than I would have preferred, but it's OK:
And the resultant bead:
And finally, here's where things stand today. I still need to mill the 1/8" roundover on all the outside edges, and I've got a TON of sanding to do!
I did some finish tests today, and I want to get you good folks opinion on it, but I'll do that in a separate post.
When last we checked - the carcase had been dry fit and ready to glue up. So here is the carcase all glued up:
Next, I attacked the drawers. Here are the drawer sides laid out in matched pairs as I'm milling the joinery:
And the stock blanks from which the drawer fronts will be cut:
Here's the table saw set up with the shop-made tenoning jig to mill the drawer front dados:
Dry fit of the center book drawer:
Close-up of the front-side joinery. This took quite a bit of fiddling with the setup to get nice tight joints:
And the back to side joinery:
Three drawers finished, only 6 more to go!
Once I got all these frames finished, I got so focused I forgot to shoot pictures of milling the grooves for the bottoms. The bottoms are 0.120" hardboard - fits perfect in a 1/8" saw kerf. Here's the first drawer in the glue-up jig I made to keep the drawers square and flat while the glue set:
Once a the drawers where glued up, I started fitting each one for as uniform a gap as I could get. This was done by shaving the bottoms on the table saw:
And here's the cabinet with all the drawers in place:
Next, glue up the front panel:
And the top lid:
Today, I milled the bead detail on the bottom of the drawer front. After seeing Dan's post on scratch stocks the other day, I decided to try that for a smaller bead than the smallest beading bit I had (1/8" radius), but I couldn't get a decent bead in this highly figured oak, so I fell back on the 1/8" radius beading bit. The bead is a tad bit larger than I would have preferred, but it's OK:
And the resultant bead:
And finally, here's where things stand today. I still need to mill the 1/8" roundover on all the outside edges, and I've got a TON of sanding to do!
I did some finish tests today, and I want to get you good folks opinion on it, but I'll do that in a separate post.
