Freud FT2000e Parts (NON) Availability-Brushes needed!

[nicemac]

I have a Freud FT2000e router in my table. This weekend, one of the brushes took a dive. It came apart and there is nothing left of it. No problem, I called Freud this morning to geta new set not eh way.

No dice.

"Haven't had anything for that router for 4 or 5 years…"

The rep told me that there are brushes for other tools that may work and that I should call Porter Cable and "shave one of theirs down".

Has anyone here repaired one of these with brushes from another tool? If you have, do you know a part number?

I have the old brushes out, but there is little left to "Match up".

This router is too good just to throw away. Besides, I would probably have to replace the Woodpeckers lift as well. This could get expensive! Can't do that right now.

Second option… does anyone have an old one that has another problem that would be willing to part it out?

Help.

 

[junquecol]

Most independent tool repair places has a big box of assorted brushes, one of which would most likely fit your router. Some Ace Hwd stores also have a "brush assortment."

 

[Phil S]

I also have an assortment of brushes and a FT2000 so I can take a brush out and check for a match. getting late tonight so I will check tomorrow

 

[SubGuy]

If you can find anyone who rebuilds electric motors, they have brushes for everything.

 

[nicemac]

If you can find anyone who rebuilds electric motors, they have brushes for everything.

For the next guy that needs these:

The brushes are 6.3mm x 16mm x 22mm with about a 1" lead wire with a fork terminal.

Bosch 1617000425 are exact replacements. This part number is used in dozens of big Bosch tools and is available all over the web and in stock at Bosch service centers. Cost me $10. MUCH cheaper than a new router!

Thanks for your help guys!

 

[nicemac]

Good news… the brushes fit perfectly.

Bad news… there was a lo of arcing and sparking after I put them in. I pulled the router apart. Two sections of the commutator that are wasted.

Argh.

What is recommendation for a replacement? I need something that would ONLY be used in the table.

 

[SubGuy]

budget?

I have the same one you do, did...(sorry about that too).

To get an equivalent power variable router, your looking at Triton: http://www.rockler.com/triton-3-1-4-hp-dual-mode-plunge-router
or a PC: http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7538-Speedmatic-Plunge-Router/dp/B00004WMQO (but you would need a VS controller)
Or a 5 speed PC: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Cable-3-1-4-HP-5-Speed-Router-7518/100609261
Or a PC 3.25hp 5 speed motor only with a lift (can get expensive)
Makita and Portamate make similar routers but I can't speak to them.
Or you could go down to 2 3/4 hp.

 

[ehpoole]

budget?

I have the same one you do, did...(sorry about that too).

To get an equivalent power variable router, your looking at Triton: http://www.rockler.com/triton-3-1-4-hp-dual-mode-plunge-router
or a PC: http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7538-Speedmatic-Plunge-Router/dp/B00004WMQO (but you would need a VS controller)
Or a 5 speed PC: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Cable-3-1-4-HP-5-Speed-Router-7518/100609261
Or a PC 3.25hp 5 speed motor only with a lift (can get expensive)
Makita and Portamate make similar routers but I can't speak to them.
Or you could go down to 2 3/4 hp.

Just an FYI regarding an easily overlooked detail, you can't use an external speed controller with any router that includes soft-start (not without rewiring the router internally first), which includes the PC 7538 linked above (I have not looked at the Triton). However, PC does have 3-1/4HP models that include multiple selectable (via switch) fixed speeds (like the PC 7518 linked above), which would give you variable speed control, just not continuously variable like some other models.

To use a soft-start router with an external speed controller you would first need to remove the electronic speed/soft-start controller circuit board and rewire the router to run as a straight motor only. That said, I was never that impressed with some of the external speed controllers as they have no direct feedback from the motor (other than very limited current sensing, if implemented at all) and no way to read the actual RPMs of the motor, which always seemed to result in very sloppy speed control. By comparison, many built-in speed controller boards include a (typically either a Hall effect or IR) RPM sensor which helps immensely in maintaining a stable speed.

 

[Endless Pursuit]

You might be able to take the rotor to a machine shop had have the commutator cut down on a lathe. As a kid, I did this hundreds of times in my Dad's machine shop. You can reduce the OD of the commutator a surprising amount. That's what the length of the brushes is for.

 

[SubGuy]

Good catch Ethan. I didn't look at the soft start option.

Just an FYI regarding an easily overlooked detail, you can't use an external speed controller with any router that includes soft-start (not without rewiring the router internally first), which includes the PC 7538 linked above (I have not looked at the Triton). However, PC does have 3-1/4HP models that include multiple selectable (via switch) fixed speeds (like the PC 7518 linked above), which would give you variable speed control, just not continuously variable like some other models.

To use a soft-start router with an external speed controller you would first need to remove the electronic speed/soft-start controller circuit board and rewire the router to run as a straight motor only. That said, I was never that impressed with some of the external speed controllers as they have no direct feedback from the motor (other than very limited current sensing, if implemented at all) and no way to read the actual RPMs of the motor, which always seemed to result in very sloppy speed control. By comparison, many built-in speed controller boards include a (typically either a Hall effect or IR) RPM sensor which helps immensely in maintaining a stable speed.

 

[SubGuy]

Dewalt has a 3hp VS as well.

 

[Canuck]

If in the market for new, several us have the Milwaukee 5625 "Hoss".....

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-5625-20-2-Horsepower-Variable-Adjustment/dp/B00007FPJK

Great router for the table!

Wayne

 

[nicemac]

The commutator actually has two of the segments 3/4 missing. Gone. I cannot imagine what happened inside this router to make it fail like this. It looks like it simply disintegrated. The date stamp in it is from 1992. I guess I got my money's worth out of it!

Thanks for the recommendations. I will look at each one. I have this Woodpeckers router lift that is made specifically for this router. Unless I eBay another Freud, I will have to replace that as well. And the FT2000e's are bring as much on eBay as new 3-1/4 hp units. Yikes.

 

[merrill77]

I like my Triton with built-in lift.

 

[Charlie]

I have the Triton 3 1/4 in my table without the lift. Works great. It has it's own fine adjustment knob. I never found a reason for a router lift. The automatic spindle lock works great. Only requires one wrench.

 

[nicemac]

I have the Triton 3 1/4 in my table without the lift. Works great. It has it's own fine adjustment knob. I never found a reason for a router lift. The automatic spindle lock works great. Only requires one wrench.

[h=1]Triton TRA001/TRC001?[/h]

 

[Charlie]

TRC001. 6 years old and no problems.

 

[nicemac]

Thanks Charlie, that looks like a good option. I may try to re-drill my lift and use it just as a plate.

 

[golfdad]

another plug here for the Big Triton....great customer service too

 

[merrill77]

Thanks Charlie, that looks like a good option. I may try to re-drill my lift and use it just as a plate.

You may be able to eBay that lift for a good price? Maybe pay for part of the new router. That Woodpecker stuff seems to keep its value well.

FWIW, I don't use a plate at all - I mount the Triton directly to the underside my table surface. My surface is a re-purposed laminate/particle-board desktop (1 1/4" thick), so I routed out an area the size of the Triton's base about 1/2" deep and then mounted it with countersunk screws from the top. Since I never take mine out of the table, it works well. Of course, if you already have a nice top with a plate that you want to keep, this doesn't help you.