Freud Blade Stabilizer

[rick7938]

I just bought a Freud Blade Stabilizer for my 10" Delta Contractor saw. When I opened the package, I found 2 stabilizers. Does one go on each side of the blade or are there 1 stabilizer for 2 applications?

I thought that they only went on the outside of the blade, but must be wrong.

Thanks for any information.

 

[toolferone]

One on each side.

 

[MarkW]

I only used one since you have to re-calibrate your fence if you use one on both sides.
It seemed to work well, though I have no idea on how much better it would be with 2.

 

[Charles M]

Rick,

We offer Stabilizers which come as a pair and Stiffeners which are individual. Stabilizers augment the stock fixing washers on the saw and are dished so they must be always used together or you could distort the blade. Stiffeners are a flat plate that is mounted on the outboard side of the blade.

 

[rick7938]

Thanks, Charles. I am kind of new at this and guess that I really didn't know the difference. I was afraid that using only one stabilizer would distort the blade because of the difference in the height of the bearing surfaces against the blade of the inner arbor plate and the stabilizer.

1. Is a stiffener beneficial if I use only full-kerf blades?( I have the Freud 40-tooth GP blade and Freud 50-tooth Combo)

2. Where can I order the stiffener?

The stabilizers are very well made and will make great paperweights, but I didn't want to use both of them since all my jigs, fence, and ZC inserts are set up for the stock blade location.

Thanks for responding to my question. I had hoped that you would read it.

 

[Charles M]

Rick,

Although we offer these accessories, they should not be necessary for Freud blades. The only time I would recommend them is to correct a problem that is inherent in the saw or for use with an inferior blade. Is there an issue with the cut quality?

 

[rick7938]

Thanks, Charles.

Absolutely no problem with cut quality. Just looking to maximize blades, but really can't see that they could get much better, but wouldn't know unless I tried.

 

[Touchwood]

You definitely have to put them on both sides. I wrecked two Forrest blades by not doing that.

If you put a 4" or 5" steel disc on the outside of the blade with a 2 1/2" flange on the arbor side, and tighten it down...guess what happens when the blade heats up..like in ripping?

I could put a straight edge against the blade body, hold it up to the light and see a gap of at least 20 mils at the center...thats a lot of run-out...ie. what used to be nice smooth cross-cuts with little break-out became not smooth and ragged at the back.

Ashcroft Saw has a machine in Asheville that puts the blade body between two high pressure rollers and will correct a lot of the distortion. Talk to Derek in the Raleigh office.

The problem is much worse with 3/32 vs. 1/8 kerf blades, but I've stopped using the stabilizers alltogether. It's strange that Forrest will sell you just one stabilizer and not tell you what can happen...but them I'm pretty dis--enchanted with Forrest anyway, after a couple of carbide tips went into the ceiling. :-x

Ridge Carbide 2000 (Superblade) is the best, and then Tenryu Gold medal after that IMHO. Freud's anti kick-back rip blade is pretty good too. Freud's anti-climb cross-cut for a radial-arm is good too...again IMHO.

Don