Flip Work Table: Project Completed

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drw

Donn
Corporate Member
I have been wanting to build a solid worktable for my shop, but couldn't find a plan that was suitable for my small work area. The recent issue of Wood magazine has a plan for a work table that actually flips down so you and push it aside, if needed. The table is extremely sturdy, in fact the top portion is a beast (very heavy, two pieces of laminated 3/4 MDF), it was a struggle mounting it the base. All-in-all, I am pleased with the final result, it is not only very sturdy, it is a very flat and level surface.
P1020049.JPG

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jmauldin

New User
Jim
Great Job! That is a fabulous idea you came up with and with a top that thick it should handle anything you throw at it. One question - do you plan to mount a vise, and what kind?
Jim in Mayberry
 

MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
That came out great! :icon_thum

I am still working on mine. Got sidetracked today installing a new storm door.

A couple of questions.

What size screws to use to pocket screw the top to the frame? I only had 1-1/4" (too short) and 2-1/2" (too long). I ended up using 2" wood screws instead.

Did you glue the top to the frame? The plans say not to so you can replace it if (when) it gets damaged. I decided to glue it because I don't trust screws alone in mdf. When the top gets too bad I will just add a layer of tempered hardboard. May do that sooner rather than later.

Did you or are you planning to apply finish? I applied shellac to the base and the underside of the top and the top frame. The top got a coat of de-waxed shellac to seal the mdf and then a few coats of Polycrilic. The Poly should help keep glue drips from sticking.
 

drw

Donn
Corporate Member
Jim, thank you for your comments. Regarding your question about installing a vise, since I will be using this more as an assembly table, I do not plan to install a vise.

Donn
 

drw

Donn
Corporate Member
Mark,
I used 2" screws (aprox. 40 of them) and they seemed to work very well...as I was appling them I could see and feel the top and frame come together. With regard to gluing the frame to the top, I did not do this. I really do think the pocket screws have a secure hold. While I do plan to apply some sort of finish later this week, I have not done it yet. In truth, after wrestling with top, trying to get it on the base, I was ready to walk away from the project for a few days.

I looking forward to seeing pictures of your table!

Donn
 

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
It looks like you did a really nice job on the build.

But I do have one question: What the heck does one do with a flip-top table? It takes up a good bit of room in the collapsed state versus other break-down alternatives and it seems to have no great advantages in its 'table' state than either a fixed table or a break down table (or even a pair of saw horses and a solid tabletop). Otherwise it does have a certain 'cool' factor, I suppose.

Just curious. Probably just a lack of imagination on my part!
 

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
What size screws to use to pocket screw the top to the frame? I only had 1-1/4" (too short) and 2-1/2" (too long). I ended up using 2" wood screws instead.

For future reference, the standard sizes for Kreg screws are as follows: 3/4", 1", 1-1/4", 1-1/2", 2" and 2-1/2". Lowes carries a few of the common sizes, Woodcraft, Rockler, and others carry the full selection of Kreg screws (I keep at least a few hundred of every size on hand for various jobs).

Recommended Screw for given material thicknesses (assuming each section is of equal thickness):

Standard Blue Guide Block*
If thickness is 1/2" use 1" screw
If thickness is 5/8" use 1" screw
If thickness is 3/4" use 1-1/4" screw
If thickness is 7/8" use 1-1/2" screw
If thickness is 1" use 1-1/2" screw
If thickness is 1-1/8" use 1-1/2" screw
If thickness is 1-1/4" use 2" screw
If thickness is 1-3/8" use 2" screw
If thickness is 1-1/2" use 2-1/2" screw
*** Use washer-head screws for all but 1" screw size ***

Black Micro Guide Block*
If thickness is 1/2" use 3/4" screw (but set jig at 5/8")
If thickness is 5/8" use 3/4" screw (with jig set at 5/8")
*** Otherwise use same as Blue Guide Block, Use pan-head screws only ***

* Note: Use Fine threads in hardwoods, course threads in softwoods and hi-low threads in MDF and particle board. For screw lengths of 2" and 2-1/2" use coarse threads in all woods.
 

drw

Donn
Corporate Member
It looks like you did a really nice job on the build.

But I do have one question: What the heck does one do with a flip-top table? It takes up a good bit of room in the collapsed state versus other break-down alternatives and it seems to have no great advantages in its 'table' state than either a fixed table or a break down table (or even a pair of saw horses and a solid tabletop). Otherwise it does have a certain 'cool' factor, I suppose.

Just curious. Probably just a lack of imagination on my part!

Ethan, you raise a good question. Given the fact that I just built the table I cannot answer your question based on experience, but I will give you my expectation. I expect to keep the table in the unfolded position for the majority of the time. As mentioned it is sturdy and thus should prove to be a useful shop addition. That said, given the small area of my shop there are occasions when additional floor space will be more valuable than the table; in those instances I can simply flip the table and roll it against the wall or into my garage (the garage is just off my shop through a set of double doors). Small shops need flexibility, which is what I hope I have achieved.

Cheers,
Donn
 

MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
For future reference, the standard sizes for Kreg screws are as follows: 3/4", 1", 1-1/4", 1-1/2", 2" and 2-1/2". Lowes carries a few of the common sizes, Woodcraft, Rockler, and others carry the full selection of Kreg screws (I keep at least a few hundred of every size on hand for various jobs).

Recommended Screw for given material thicknesses (assuming each section is of equal thickness):

Standard Blue Guide Block*
If thickness is 1/2" use 1" screw
If thickness is 5/8" use 1" screw
If thickness is 3/4" use 1-1/4" screw
If thickness is 7/8" use 1-1/2" screw
If thickness is 1" use 1-1/2" screw
If thickness is 1-1/8" use 1-1/2" screw
If thickness is 1-1/4" use 2" screw
If thickness is 1-3/8" use 2" screw
If thickness is 1-1/2" use 2-1/2" screw
*** Use washer-head screws for all but 1" screw size ***

Black Micro Guide Block*
If thickness is 1/2" use 3/4" screw (but set jig at 5/8")
If thickness is 5/8" use 3/4" screw (with jig set at 5/8")
*** Otherwise use same as Blue Guide Block, Use pan-head screws only ***

* Note: Use Fine threads in hardwoods, course threads in softwoods and hi-low threads in MDF and particle board. For screw lengths of 2" and 2-1/2" use coarse threads in all woods.

Thanks for the chart, Ethan. Not sure about using 2-1/2" screws into a 1-1/2" thickness though. The top on the flip table is 1-1/2" thick and the 2-1/2" hi-low screws I have would have poked through the top.

I only had the 1-1/4" and 2-1/2" screws 'in stock', since those are what I use most of the time. Guess I'll have to order up some additional sizes.
 

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
Thanks for the chart, Ethan. Not sure about using 2-1/2" screws into a 1-1/2" thickness though. The top on the flip table is 1-1/2" thick and the 2-1/2" hi-low screws I have would have poked through the top.

Check the offset of your jig (drill guide) from the edge of the board -- especially if you are using one of the simpler kits that includes only the guide block and bit (I use the K3 Master Kit) -- as well as your drill depth stop collar. I have assembled entire 2x4 (1-1/2" thick) projects with 2-1/2" Kreg washer-head screws and never poked through the second board.

If you don't already have it, Kreg makes a small jig that the standard drill guide block (3-hole) nests in which will help you set the drill guide block at the appropriate depth. It is also necessary to set the depth stop at the proper depth on the drill bit to prevent poking though. This is where the Master Kit with its stationary clamping Jig is really handy as it has all the bit depth stops clearly marked on it -- you just lay the bit in its nest with the drill stop held flush to the edge and slide the bit so that the step (the wide transition) of the bit lines up with the intended project depth.

If you find that you are building a lot of projects with Pocket Hole joinery then the Kreg Master Kits are an investment worth considering, if the budget allows.

PS - If you need a table of bit depth stop collar settings please let me know, I'm not aware of any specific table published by Kreg with these settings so I would need to measure them off my Master Jig for you.
 

zapdafish

New User
Steve
In truth, after wrestling with top, trying to get it on the base, I was ready to walk away from the project for a few days.

I looking forward to seeing pictures of your table!

Donn

Looks great. I like that you tapered the legs for a shop project.

I'm in the neighborhood as well if you need a hand in the future.
 

thrt15nc

New User
Tom
Donn, that's a great looking table. I'm curious about the stability of it when folded up. Does it have a tendency to tip over when rolling it around?

Thanks,
Tom
 

MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
Check the offset of your jig (drill guide) from the edge of the board -- especially if you are using one of the simpler kits that includes only the guide block and bit (I use the K3 Master Kit) -- as well as your drill depth stop collar. I have assembled entire 2x4 (1-1/2" thick) projects with 2-1/2" Kreg washer-head screws and never poked through the second board.

If you don't already have it, Kreg makes a small jig that the standard drill guide block (3-hole) nests in which will help you set the drill guide block at the appropriate depth. It is also necessary to set the depth stop at the proper depth on the drill bit to prevent poking though. This is where the Master Kit with its stationary clamping Jig is really handy as it has all the bit depth stops clearly marked on it -- you just lay the bit in its nest with the drill stop held flush to the edge and slide the bit so that the step (the wide transition) of the bit lines up with the intended project depth.

If you find that you are building a lot of projects with Pocket Hole joinery then the Kreg Master Kits are an investment worth considering, if the budget allows.

PS - If you need a table of bit depth stop collar settings please let me know, I'm not aware of any specific table published by Kreg with these settings so I would need to measure them off my Master Jig for you.

I do have the K3 Master kit. Definitely a very good investment.

I'll re-check the stops and collars before using it again for 1-1/2" thick stock. After drilling all the pocket holes I just put one of the 2-1/2" screws in to one pocket hole and held the piece up to the side of the completed table top. The screw looked to be about 1/32" too long, so I could very easily have set the drill bit stop collar too far up the shaft. I usually check the depth this way with a piece of scrap, but got in a hurry this time and didn't do it.

It's moot at this point anyway, since I used 2" screws and glued the top to the frame. There is very little chance that that top is going to separate from the frame.
 

drw

Donn
Corporate Member
Looks great. I like that you tapered the legs for a shop project.

I'm in the neighborhood as well if you need a hand in the future.


Steve,
Thank you for your comments and your offer for future assistance, I may take you up on it!

Donn
 

drw

Donn
Corporate Member
Donn, that's a great looking table. I'm curious about the stability of it when folded up. Does it have a tendency to tip over when rolling it around?

Thanks,
Tom

Tom,
When folded, the table is surprisingly stable. Given the size and weight of the base and the fact when folded half of the table is sitting low with the base, there doesn't appear to be any stability problems.

Donn
 

kommon_sense

New User
Tavaris
Love the table. However at the moment, I'm more interested in the flip cart in the back with the planer upside down :) How thick is the plate that they are mounted to and what hinge/joint/bearing did you use to actually be able to flip/rotate them?
 

drw

Donn
Corporate Member
Tavaris, regarding the "flip-top tool stand", it was built from a plan I got out of a Plans Now publication. The flip top consists of two 3/4" ply panels that are glued along all four sides with 3/4" x 2" side spacers between the two pieces of ply, thus the total thickness of the top is aprox. 2.25 ". Interestingly, the top panel simply rotates around two 1" x 3" hardwood dowels, which are inserted in 1" diameter holes drilled into the sides and top of the tool stand. Each dowel is held in place with a single 1 3/4" wood screw applied through the top panel into each dowel. At first I was a little skeptical that the dowels would provide sufficient support, given the weight of the planer and OSS; but, I have never experienced any problems! Since I use the OSS far more frequently than the planer it remains on top, but it takes less than two minutes to rotate the planer into position.

I hope this info helps...good luck!
 
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