Flattening bench top

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Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
I have a bench from a piece of bowling alley lane that is relatively flat, but I would like to have it a little flatter. I've already hand planed it and used a belt sander the best I can, but my back can't handle it.

I'm looking for other ways to produce a flat bench without getting too crazy with it.

And I'd like some opinions on just how important is a perfectly flat bench top?
I already have a torsion box assembly table and it is really nice, but I don't anticipate using the bench for assemblies.


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Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
This may seem harsh, but take it as intended- just friendly advice.

If you can't plane the benchtop, you can't plane anything on the benchtop.

Either your bench is at the wrong height, you're using the wrong plane, wrong technique, planes are not sharp, or you are not physically fit for the work.

Power planing, drum sanding, or a router sled system may be your answer if the other things can't be corrected.
 

bluedawg76

New User
Sam
I thought those pieces of bowling alley lane were generally packed full of nails. I would check it before proceeding b/c that is a great way to destroy some tools.

as for perfectly flat, it depends on your purpose -planing stock, assembly table, etc. Where it is out of flat is also important. No twist for sure, some high and low spots, well it kind of depends on how high and how low and where the variations are.
 

AdamO

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I used a piece of bowling alley for a kitchen island. I had it sanded at a local cabinet shop on a wide belt sander--I think they charged $20-40. If you want it to look good, that's probably the way to go.
 

Mark Gottesman

New User
Mark
+1 for finding a shop with a wide belt sander. I did that for a large endgrain cutting board and it was worth every cent.
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
This may seem harsh, but take it as intended- just friendly advice.

If you can't plane the benchtop, you can't plane anything on the benchtop.

Either your bench is at the wrong height, you're using the wrong plane, wrong technique, planes are not sharp, or you are not physically fit for the work.

Power planing, drum sanding, or a router sled system may be your answer if the other things can't be corrected.

I know how to use a plane, my bench is at the right height and I know how to sharpen a plane good as anyone. Yeah, I could be more fit - couldn't you?

I suffered a bad back injury working on a horse 25 years ago and I have problems with repetitive movements especially where I'm stretching out.
That being said, I take no offense by your comment because you don't know me.

I submit even the most fit, talented craftsman like yourself has to admit hours of planing of very hard wood in stretched out positions is quite different than the regular planing we do on a regular basis. It will get anyone's respiratory rate up.

The bench is quite large, 36x78".


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Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
What did you see/feel before attacking it with your tools? I'm guessing that it was already pretty darn flat. See the "Surface" section on page 4.

http://www.6and2bowling.com/newsletters&rules/specsmanualaug2003.pdf



You may be headed down that slippery slope and over thinking "how flat is flat enough and how will I know when I get there?"

Yes I'm almost finished with the base and I'm going to wait till I get it set up but this thing is extremely heavy and doesn't flex, so I'm not expecting any changes.

Yes, it is basically flat and I agree you can get crazy with it.


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Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
36 x 78 is quite large, maybe too big to run through a planer or sander.

Take it in little bites, you don't have to do a marathon session.

Yeah, I could be in better shape. Like I said and glad you saw that, just some suggestions.
 

Pop Golden

New User
Pop
Dr. Bob, Take a real good look at that top. A workbench has to be flat, but HOW flat. If it 'ant broke don't fix it. How flat depends on your likes & dislikes and only you can make that call.

Pop
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
When I have to take off a lot of wood I use a #6 Stanley with a blade I reground to an 8" radius. I opened the mouth to allow quite thick chips to move through easily and sharpened the blade to 30° instead of the usual 22° to 25°. All this allows be to knock down thick areas in a series of diagonal passes. I alternate going from left to right then right to left at about 40 to 50 degrees. Cross grain is easier to plane when you are making scalloped plane tracks.

Maybe you already know all this so consider it as informing the other readers who will read about your bench flattening.

I watched a very painful time lapse video of some young guy planing a wide, thick board that was 5/8 inch in twist. He was using a low angle bevel up plane that would be great for light trying and finish work but took forever to plough through 5/8 inch of black walnut. Even stopping to sharpen a couple times he was wringing wet with perspiration. He was so proud of his work and thought the plane did a great job, but he could have done the same work in 1/3 the time with the proper plane set up.
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
Aren't bowling lanes slightly crowned?

OK, I see in the spec sheet Jeff posted 40/1000 allowance. That's probably flatter than any wood in my shop.

Of course that can change over time, especially after the lane of pulled up and stored.
 
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Mark Gottesman

New User
Mark
Out of curiosity, how are you determining flat? I have a 6' machinist rule, but even that would not be enough for your job. Post up some photos of Work In Progress (WIP) so we can see what your dealing with. I'm envious of the shopspace to hold such a large bench. Laser, Winding sticks or string and guide blocks?

That is a big slab to work with. I think the wide belt sander I rented time on was only rated to 36". If it was not a Bowling Alley Lane, my suggestion would be to rip the top in half, process and reglue. I would guess there are larger units available.
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
Out of curiosity, how are you determining flat? I have a 6' machinist rule, but even that would not be enough for your job. Post up some photos of Work In Progress (WIP) so we can see what your dealing with. I'm envious of the shopspace to hold such a large bench. Laser, Winding sticks or string and guide blocks?

That is a big slab to work with. I think the wide belt sander I rented time on was only rated to 36". If it was not a Bowling Alley Lane, my suggestion would be to rip the top in half, process and reglue. I would guess there are larger units available.

Good points Mark. And I would like to add to what mike said... of course a hand plane is best but the same could be done with a hand held belt sander in X patterns like mike said. The bigger and wider the belt sander the better of course. Start with 20 or 40 grit and work your way up. 20 grit on a belt sander will chew some wood up... even hard maple. beware of heat generated, depending on the moisture content of the bowling ally top you may cause warpage and defeat your purpose all together.

The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing. Edmund Burke
 

Roy G

Roy
Senior User
Have you tried pulling your plane? I have found that uses different muscle groups and lets you exercise different areas of your body.

Roy G
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
You know, while working in the shop yesterday, I never even thought about how flat my bench is. So I'm thinking it's working fine, I already have a torsion box assembly table, and there's lots of energy and time I'd rather be creating something. I have one pretty low spot (1/8" +/-) right in the area I use the most - right front - but the only issue I can see would be hand planing faces where the flex would mess it up. Thanks for the


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