first attempt at carving

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DaveO

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DaveO
I can take a clear picture but I can't do anything that nice especially on my first try. Great job, you took the hard way, removing everything to leave your picture. I'd probably start by carving the design into the wood, not carving the wood into the design. Either way it's better than I think I could do first time out. Dave:)
 

brenthenze

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Brent Henze
Thanks, Dave. Actually, the grounding process isn't so hard--I used a drill press with a forstner bit to clear out most of the material, then cleared away the bit marks and added texture with a #3 gouge. (Not my idea--it's recommended in Butz's *How to Carve Wood* and in various other texts I've read.) Even Paul Hasluck, who's about as much a traditionalist as one can be, describes the "mechanical method of wasting away" (and he discusses a hand-cranked mechanical boring device that can be mounted on the bed of a lathe--not much different from a modern drill press), though he then sternly cautions the carver not to depend upon purely mechanical methods for *finishing* the ground: "Such a groundwork may be exact and trim, but it is fearfully mechanical. The value of any wood carving is to a large extent in its virile, nervous cutting; because it is that which gives it life, and therefore character; and it is obvious that a mechanical process is the best possible method to adopt to kill completely any strivings after life and character." (This is much the same argument that he uses against "punching" the groundwork to add texture. A punch--an iron or steel bit with a pattern of textured dots or lines that can be used to texture a smooth surface--is a mechanical quick-fix that anyone can accomplish--it doesn't require a skilled artisan, and therefore can't demonstrate an artisan's skill, so he's against it.) It's hard to read whether he's exactly in *favor* of mechanical methods of wasting large areas of ground--I get the sense that he wouldn't have done it himself!--but the fact that he's even talking about the use of boring machines back in 1911 shows that the method is fairly conventional.
 

DaveO

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DaveO
I just saw your new versions, much better, especially the black and white one. When you say the black marks are from taps, are you refering to taps in Sugar Maple to collect the sap? Looks kinda of like ambrosia also, I guess there be some infection introduced just like the beetle does. With your newer, clearer pictures, I can see that you did a better job than I thought:eusa_clap . The detail on the flower is really good:eusa_clap . Thanks, for your explaination of how you removed some of the wood to make it easier to carve. I would have never thought of that method. Thanks, Dave:)
 

brenthenze

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Brent Henze
Yes, that's right--sugaring taps. I actually didn't realize that ambrosia figure was caused by infestation, but I guess it'd make sense that a tap would do something similar. I like the look (both the holes and the streaks), though it is harder to work because it's so soft (I haven't used ambrosia maple--does it have the same effect on the wood structure)?
 

Big Mike

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Mike
I think your carving is terrific! I always admire people who can do that kind of work, such patience and skill! Very nicely done!:icon_thum
 

DaveO

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DaveO
Brent, the Ambrosia beetle, named so because of the fungus they introduce into freshly cut timber, causes streaks similar to those in your carvings. I don't know if it is a coincidence that there are tap marks and Ambrosia streaks or if the taps caused a similar stain. Either way it is very beautiful "figure" in wood. Like spalting it does cause some decomposition of the wood (not as severe as spalting) and some punky areas, which is why you found soft areas. The fungi that be stopped by kiln drying the lumber and is very stable to use. I think that it is one of the coolest "figures" you can find, and many turners really like what it does with their pieces. You have to watch yourself, the dust can more irritating than normal to some people due to the fungal spores. Dave:)
 
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