Finishing Question for the Gurus

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Wilmingtonian

New User
David
I am working on Norm's Router table. It is constructed from Luaun Ply and Red Oak trim. I plan on applying 4 coats of Tung oil. On my test piece, I liked the finish, but thought it may be missing something. What are your thoughts on covering with a coat of poly? I know nothing about finishing, all opinions and thoughts are welcome!
 

Steve D

Member
Steve DeWeese
Tung oil is a relatively hard and durable finish (assuming it is a good quality and the resins properly cure). Adding poly will not change the appearance much unless you go with a different sheen. You may gain a little durability but I don't really think it will make much of a difference. If you want to change the sheen of the tung oil, you can rub it out with steel wool. Coarse steel wool will give you flat, fine steel wool will give you satin.
 

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
IMO, you probably are missing the build up of the finish on the surface since tung oil pretty much gets absorbed into the wood. For shop stuff, I experiment. Personally, I think the tung oil is more than sufficient for the router table unless you do want a film finish. If you do, be sure to let the tung oil cure before putting poly on top.

PS - I am the pits at finishing.
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
I used Danish Oil on my NYW inspired router table. Quick, functional, and looks good enough. I used the same materials you did. If you want to add more to the finish you already have, I would consider a wipe-on poly. Store bought or home brewed.
Dave:)
 

Howard Acheson

New User
Howard
What do you mean by "tung oil"? Is it a pure, 100% tung oil or one of the faux "tung oil finishes" like Minwax Tung Oil Finish?

Pure tung oil is not a very protective finish. It is no more protective than boiled linseed oil.
 

Wilmingtonian

New User
David
Howard, I was planning on using plain old tung oil from Ace hardware. Is this not a good protectant? My goal is for a finish that is natural, and protective that people notice, but keeping in mind that this is a shop work area piece.
 

Monty

New User
Monty
I don't use plain tung oil on my shop furniture either - I use a blend. This stuff:




I like this stuff so much I bought a gallon of it! I used it on all my shop furniture, including that trestle base I just made. If you use multiple layers it does provide some protection, but if you really want a topcoat you can add poly or this:




For cabinets I've just been using seal-a-cell, and I've just been topcoating countertops that need extra protection.
 

Howard Acheson

New User
Howard
Wilmingtonian said:
Howard, I was planning on using plain old tung oil from Ace hardware. Is this not a good protectant? My goal is for a finish that is natural, and protective that people notice, but keeping in mind that this is a shop work area piece.

No, pure tung oil has little or no water and watervapor resistance and no abrasion resistance. In other words, it is little better than nothing.

Now, luaun is a fairly soft and not too smooth plywood. I would not have used it for something like a router tabletop. To get the best protective surface now, I would recommend a poly varnish. Thin the first coat 25-30% with mineral spirits. Let it dry 2-3 days and then hand sand it flat using a sanding block and 320 paper. When it is smooth, apply 3-4 more coats thinned about 10%. Let this fully cure 3-4 weeks to get maximum adhesion and full abrasion resistance. For a router table, a coat of paste wax will let things slide easier.

Oh, be sure to coat both sides equally to minimize the chance of warping.
 

jglord

New User
John
I seem to remember from some oil painting years ago, using tung oil because it did not harden and would keep the paint workable for a long time. It would seem the same applies to using tung oil as a finish. I know of folks who used pure tung oil and finding the finish would still show finger prints a month later.
Finishes like Watco are tung oil based but have drying agents added to harden the finish within a short time.
I'd go with the previous advice and finish with poly. BTW - oil based poly takes longer to dry but that is an advantage - i.e. the slow dry allows both a stronger finish and the finish will flow/smooth-out better. Use several thin coats for best effect without rins, drips or errors.
 

Howard Acheson

New User
Howard
>> Finishes like Watco are tung oil based

Just to clear it up, except for their Teak Oil, Watco is a linseed oil and varnish mixture. Same for Minwax Tung Oil Finish. It too, is linseed oil and contains no real tung oil. The only true tung oil is that which specifically says on the label, "pure" or "100%". None of the products that say "Tung Oil Finish" are pure tung oil and most contain no true tung oil at all. As far as protection and durability, the "Tung Oil Finishes" are a better finishing choice. True oils are best left as colorant treatments, not finishes.
 
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