Finished Something!: A Small Walnut Case

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tarheelz

Dave
Corporate Member
This small case/stand is my first commissioned piece. The case is designed to match their existing living room furniture and be low enough to fit beneath the moulding of the living room windows. (It will hold their wifi router and Directv Box.) The shelf is adjustable.

Joinery is half-blind dovetails. The back is shiplapped strips of walnut (as I didn't want to buy any pricey walnut plywood). Finish is Waterlox Original.


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Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
Very nice work.

I too would be interested in more finish details. Was that high gloss Waterlox that you used? How many coats, sanding in between coats and what grit?

Wayne
 

tarheelz

Dave
Corporate Member
Thanks, all for the kind comments. The piece looks super glossy now but that will tone down a lot as the Waterlox cures.

Years ago, Bas turned me on to Waterlox Original. Before that, I had been a french polish person (and still love that look). I don't know that Waterlox is as dummy proof as shellac applied with a french polish method, but it's WAY more durable.

Truth is, however, I was struggling with getting a "fine" finish with Waterlox. Then I discovered the "dry brush method." It has made all the difference. I adapted this method from a guy named [FONT=&amp]Matt Douthit and his business,[/FONT] "Antique Trunks & Chests." http://www.antiquetrunksandchests.com/how-to-apply-waterlox-original-2014/

Here's how I went at it. (The process is done twice. Once for the interior pieces prior to assembly. Once again for the exterior after assembly.):

1) Sand all finish surfaces to 220 grit.
2) Apply a THIN coat of clear Aqua Coat grain filler with an old credit card or PLASTIC putty knife. (Don't use a metal putty knife. DAMHIK.)
3) Apply a second THIN coat of Aqua Coat. (Be sure your applicator is clean and doesn't have any gunk from the first coat stuck to it.)
4) Sand lightly the Aqua Coat lightly with 320 grit.
4.1) Apply a third THIN coat of Aqua Coat to the top so that it's extra smooth and then sand the top lightly with 320 grit.
5) Vacuum all prepped surfaces thoroughly.
6) Wash your hands thoroughly and use the palm of your hand to grab any extra dust that might have been missed. (You can feel it with your hand.)
7) Apply a moderate coat of Waterlox with a 2" foam brush going with grain, overlapping long steady strokes. Don't brush fast and don't push hard, which seems to generate more bubbles.
8) Let dry for 12-24 hours.
9) Repeat Step 7. (Second coat.)
10) Let dry for full 24 hours.
11) Sand very lightly with 220 to remove any bumps or bubbles. (Just enough to create some white dust.)
12) Repeat Steps 5 & 6. (Your clean hand (and some light) will detect anything left to be knocked down with 220 grit.)
13) Repeat Step 7. (Third coat.)
14) Let dry for full 24 hours.
15) Sand with 320 grit & vacuum.
16) Sand with 400 grit & vacuum.
17) For the 4th coat, you are going to do it similarly to the prior three coats but go a little heavier with this coat. (Matt calls this a "liberal" coat but it's all relative, I suppose.) No dry spots!
18) Set timer for 20 minutes.
19) Grab a clean, dry 4" foam brush and lightly brush through the wet Waterlox in long strokes.
20) Set timer for 15 minutes.
21) Repeat Step 19.
22) Set timer for 10 minutes.
23) Repeat Step 19.
24) Set timer for 5 minutes.
25) Repeat Step 19.

Walk away. You're done.

Note: For the top, I went with five coats (ie 4 preliminary coats, rather than 3).
 

LeftyTom

Tom
Corporate Member
Nicely done, Dave. Is the back have a hole for cables to pass through to the bottom shelf, or is that light bouncing on that fabulous finish?
 

drw

Donn
Corporate Member
Beautiful work and the finish is truly exceptional! Thank you for sharing your finish schedule.
 

tarheelz

Dave
Corporate Member
Nicely done, Dave. Is the back have a hole for cables to pass through to the bottom shelf, or is that light bouncing on that fabulous finish?

Yep. It's light from the hole in the back. Hole for cables and a semi-circle notch in the shelf for the same.
 

Rick_B

Rick
Corporate Member
Thanks, all for the kind comments. The piece looks super glossy now but that will tone down a lot as the Waterlox cures.

Years ago, Bas turned me on to Waterlox Original. Before that, I had been a french polish person (and still love that look). I don't know that Waterlox is as dummy proof as shellac applied with a french polish method, but it's WAY more durable.

Truth is, however, I was struggling with getting a "fine" finish with Waterlox. Then I discovered the "dry brush method." It has made all the difference. I adapted this method from a guy named [FONT=&amp]Matt Douthit and his business,[/FONT] "Antique Trunks & Chests." http://www.antiquetrunksandchests.com/how-to-apply-waterlox-original-2014/

Here's how I went at it. (The process is done twice. Once for the interior pieces prior to assembly. Once again for the exterior after assembly.):

1) Sand all finish surfaces to 220 grit.
2) Apply a THIN coat of clear Aqua Coat grain filler with an old credit card or PLASTIC putty knife. (Don't use a metal putty knife. DAMHIK.)
3) Apply a second THIN coat of Aqua Coat. (Be sure your applicator is clean and doesn't have any gunk from the first coat stuck to it.)
4) Sand lightly the Aqua Coat lightly with 320 grit.
4.1) Apply a third THIN coat of Aqua Coat to the top so that it's extra smooth and then sand the top lightly with 320 grit.
5) Vacuum all prepped surfaces thoroughly.
6) Wash your hands thoroughly and use the palm of your hand to grab any extra dust that might have been missed. (You can feel it with your hand.)
7) Apply a moderate coat of Waterlox with a 2" foam brush going with grain, overlapping long steady strokes. Don't brush fast and don't push hard, which seems to generate more bubbles.
8) Let dry for 12-24 hours.
9) Repeat Step 7. (Second coat.)
10) Let dry for full 24 hours.
11) Sand very lightly with 220 to remove any bumps or bubbles. (Just enough to create some white dust.)
12) Repeat Steps 5 & 6. (Your clean hand (and some light) will detect anything left to be knocked down with 220 grit.)
13) Repeat Step 7. (Third coat.)
14) Let dry for full 24 hours.
15) Sand with 320 grit & vacuum.
16) Sand with 400 grit & vacuum.
17) For the 4th coat, you are going to do it similarly to the prior three coats but go a little heavier with this coat. (Matt calls this a "liberal" coat but it's all relative, I suppose.) No dry spots!
18) Set timer for 20 minutes.
19) Grab a clean, dry 4" foam brush and lightly brush through the wet Waterlox in long strokes.
20) Set timer for 15 minutes.
21) Repeat Step 19.
22) Set timer for 10 minutes.
23) Repeat Step 19.
24) Set timer for 5 minutes.
25) Repeat Step 19.

Walk away. You're done.

Note: For the top, I went with five coats (ie 4 preliminary coats, rather than 3).

Thabks for the detail - I'm working in a small project that will be mostly walnut with some cherry and maple accents - would your finishing x]schedule be appropriate for a mixed species project?

Rick
 

tarheelz

Dave
Corporate Member
Rick,

You would typically skip the Aqua Coat steps for cherry and maple. If it's impractical to skip/mask those areas, I'd not worry about it and grain seal the whole thing knowing it won't matter on the cherry and maple areas given Aqua Coat is totally clear. Others might have other thoughts.
 

Rick_B

Rick
Corporate Member
Dave - thanks. Just for clarity - the project I'm wrking in is a small box that will have exposed dovetails of cherry and maple with a walnut base for the sides/front/back. The feet will be cherry and the top will be a mix of walnut/cherry. The sides/front/back will also have a cherry "pinstripe" in the walnut. I don't see sealing just the walnit as an option given all the mixed species and cnfiguration. If the cherry and maple have a seal coat will the next finishing steps be effective?

Rick
 
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