Fine tuning a table saw

[chris99z71]

Does anybody have one of these:

From woodcraft it's $60 for the basic kit or $155 with all the bells and whistles. I'd like a way to measure runnout on my saw, not to mention aligning the top with the blade once I re-install it. Would I be just as well off with the $6 dial indicator from everbody's source for high precision tools (Harbor Freight)?
Better yet, does somebody have one that I could borrow for a few hours?

 

[Steve D]

I'm sure that others will chime in with their opinions but from my perspective you need 2 key elements, something very flat to reference from and a dial indicator. you can make a runner to go in your miter slot to hold the dial indicator. You can spend the money on one of the plates to go on your saw arbor but a lot of people simply use a piece of 3/4 melamine or MDF. Melamine is supposed to be flatter and more rigid than MDF. You can also use the blade itself but you nee to mark the point where the dial touches on the front and then rotate the blade and read again from that same point in the back. You then also need to set the fence parallel to the miter slot.

 

[chris99z71]

You read my mind, Steve. Another thought that i just had: since i don't have a dial indicator but i do have a good 6" dial caliper, couldn't i just measure from the inside of the nearest mitre slot to one of the teeth on the blade. Then rotate the blade and measure from the same tooth at the other end? In my head it works...but then again, my head is a dark scarry place...

 

[Steve D]

Chris,

In theory, it could work but we're talking thousandths here and if you vary the angle at all when measuring you will have an effect. You would have to figure a way to hold the caliper to maintain the angle that you are measuring from.

 

[McRabbet]

You might be able to use a dial caliper, but staying parallel between the first and second position would be a real challenge. I've got a dial indicator and magnetic base from Grizzly (see http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.aspx?itemnumber=g9849), which was about $20. I've used it as Steve D describes and have also used it to tune my jointer, check runnout on my drill press, etc. Both tools are indespensible in my shop (along with a small setup square).

 

[chris99z71]

So do you just measure off of the blade or do you put something else in it's place?

 

[Phillip]

i have the complete kit, everything pictured, and i wouldn't trade anything for them, especially if you have a contractors saw. if you have a cabinet saw you should be able to loosen four bolts and move the top parallel to the blade, but you'll still need the dial indicator. its money well spent, just my two cents.

phillip

 

[Steve D]

Chris, this wouldn't apply to you because you have a cabinet style saw but I can definitely endorse the PALS system that is shown in the upper right corner in your original picture for others who have a contractor style saw. Once installed you can easily fine tune the alignment with an allen wrench and then lock things in. Otherwise, adjustment is a nightmare on most contractor saws.

Like a lot of things in the shop, you can make a jig or buy one. It comes down to whether you have more time or money. In your case, at a minimum, I'd go to HF and get a dial indicator and magnetic base. You won't use them that frequently but they are cheap and worth having. As McRabbet said, you can use them on many tools other than the TS.

 

[chris99z71]

SCORE! I just talked to my father and he's got a dial indicator w/ magnetic base from back in his engine building days (used for degree-ing camshafts). I'm going to get it from him when I go home to NY for Christmas.

So i'm trying to figure out what you all are saying. Why doesn't it apply to cabinet saws? They're naturally better aligned, more easily adjusted or what?

 

[Ryan]

That wouldn't apply to a cabinet saw because they aren't built the same as a contractor's saw. A cabinet saw has massive trunions mounted to the cabinet, a contractor's saw has somewhat smaller trunions mounted to the table, and they are a real pain to adjust. Hope this helps.

Ryan

 

[junquecol]

Chris, congrats on the "new" uni. I have an extra dial indicator that you can borrow, with magnetic base. Sorry to tell you, but HF had both base and dial indicator for $5.99 each last Friday. I highly reccomemd you get a copy of John White's book "Care and Repair of Shop Machines"- $19.95 (John is the manager of FWW's shop). In his book he shows how to use a couple of scraps and the HF dial indicator to align your saw. I have an extra set of "alignment tools" that you are welcome to, since they are made from scrap. Give me an email and maybe I could figure how to get 220 to your saw. If your house has an air conditioner, I'l bet that it won't be running for the next few months-hint,hint. If you aren't a member of Triangle Woodworkers, I suggest you join. One benefit of membership is 10% off at Klingspors Woodworking shop on most items, power tools excepted. Dues are $35.00 for first year- if you spend $350 at the Woodworking shop, then your savings will pay for your dues. If you don't have a GOOD Blade for your saw, I suggest that you go to Woodnet.net and look in the classified for a post by Xcesstooling for Lietz and Delta blades. There are some great bargins to be had-less than the cost of sharpening locally.

 

[gator]

Chris -


I highly recommend the PALS postion of the stuff you show. As Bruce said, the rest you can make from scrap around the shop. For instance, for the jig shown for the drill press, to measure table perpendicularity it appears, I use a bent scrap of 10 or 8 gauge wire. Bend in a "Z" shape and chuck one end into your DP and spin the chuck. Keep the same distance from the other end of the wire and the table all the way around and the table is perpendicular. Then recheck, or double check, it with a long bit installed and a square measured at various points of the compass. Actually I need to get a length of metal rod for this but a bit is close enough. Same is true for all the other jigs shown, there are ways to do it from shop scrap.

George

 

[tlself]

I use a sharp pencil and miter gauge to align miter slots to arbor flanges in cabinet or contractor saws.

Loosely bolt the table in rough position (eyeball, tape measure, or just bolts lining up holes). Halfway decent blade mounted on arbor, cranked up... arbor flanges, nut and blade plate faces are clean.

Your left hand controls the miter gauge in the left slot. If its loose in the slot bed it against the left side. Left hand fingers control pencil bedded against the face of the miter gauge. Pick a tooth in front with your right hand, index the pencil against it, scrub. Shift the miter gauge to the rear, rotate your chosen tooth to the rear.... scrubs hard, shift the table; doesn't scrub, shift the table; scrubs just right, snug the bolts and double check.

Don't push/warp the blade toward the pencil. A well placed sash or F clamp makes tweaking the table easy.

Set the fence parallel to the miter slots. There is no reason whatsoever for having the blade make a heel cut on either side of the kerf.

"Runout" really doesn't matter too much.... just gives you a wider kerf. If the blade wobbles because the plate is bent junk it. If the blade wobbles because the arbor is bent, stone the arbor face. The only "runout" that really matters is slop between the arbor, bearings and bearing journels. Should be able feel that by wiggling the arbor by hand.

 

[chris99z71]

Thanks for the help, all! I've been away for a while - I herniated a disk in my neck and I've been feeling a bit lousy.
I've got the dial indicator and base taken care of. As far as power for the saw...I'm not sure my apartment complex would smile upon my efforts to rewire the air conditioner...

 

[D L Ames]

Chris, if you want to bring that big ol' Uni down here to Fayetteville I'll be more than happy to keep it plugged in for you.:lol: Just trying to be helpful.

D L

 

[chris99z71]

Wow! Everbody here's such a good friend! That's about the 5th offer I've had to "store" my Unisaw for me until I get proper facilities.
*sniffle* I feel so loved! *tearing*:crybaby2:

 

[Steve D]

Chris,

FYI there is an article in the current FWW Tools & Shops annual issue that walks through things to look for when purchasing a used cabinet saw. It is a quick read at the magazine rack to see if you have already covered everything but are a lot of other great articles in the issue as well.

 

[chris99z71]

That's funny because Wood just had a big write up on that same topic this month! It would have been a good read BEFORE I started making major purchases, but I'm pretty sure I got a good deal though.

 

[Steve D]

Chris,


My point had more to do with determining if the bearings or anything else internal needed to be changed out, it would be nice to know that before you put everything back together after the cleanup. Without question, you got an awesome deal.