I first glued up the substrate from the pine. After that I sawed the curve on the band saw leaving just a hint of the line. The hammer veneer requires the surface to be pretty flat for a good application. In this case I was making sure the curve flowed continuously and was flat across the grain. I used a small plane working across the grain on the convex sections and a scraper for the concave portions. A compass plane would have bee the right tool for this, but I don't own one -- yet.What technique did you use to get the curves on the aprons?
Once I was satisfied the surface was even I took an old hack saw blade and roughed it to help the glue. Normally, you might use a toothing plane for this job before veneering, but the hack saw blade was the only way to get around the curves. Since the curve exposes end grain in places I applied a wash coat of hot glue to act as a sealer. This prevents the end grain from drying too quickly once you start the veneer.
The veneer was applied in small sheets. The sides each have three and the front has four. The layout is important so that the seams end up in the right place. I book matched the sheets and made sure they were from contiguous slices for the best possible match. Let each sheet overlap the next slightly then slice through both as you're veneering to get a perfect joint. Needless to say I practiced all this on a sample curve before doing the real ones. @danmart77 was my mentor for the veneering.
Here's a view that shows the curved side apron during glue up.