Falling a Walnut Tree

BobJr

New User
Bob
Good evening all- I am looking for some advice and print or internet resources on the process of falling a walnut tree and having it rough milled and kiln dried.
I have this beautiful walnut tree in my yard (see picture) but unfortunately it towers over the driveway. As it grows we’re running out of places to park without waking up to dents on the cars. I could trim it but I’m tired of picking up walnuts all fall and I like the idea of turning that tree into some beautiful indoor furniture for the house!
I’ve never done something like this, I’ve always bought my material from a lumber store. Also any other advice you may have is welcome:
1. How should I describe the work to a tree company? I’d like to have a few 10 foot lengths for a large dining room table but other than that is there a best way to approach the falling of the tree? I have a lathe so even the smallest pieces could be usable for turning.
2. Do mills typically have a way to maximize the lumber or is that something I can or should plan for them?
3. Are there any potential unique grain patterns or portions of the tree to preserve? (i.e. where all the large branches meet the trunk, etc)
 

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Oka

Casey
Corporate Member
Not sure if this answers the question, but I lined your pixs based on how I would approach felling the tree.
The bottom line is the felling cut and that needs to be above the burl or twisty grain. Typically 8-18" above the ground. You just have to determine where that is. This would be the last cut. Also if you get too close to the ground often there can be rocks of other obtrusion's that really destroy your blade. I have hit rocks with oak before so just depends on the environment it grew in.
The top 3 lines I would do after limbing it out as much as possible, then cut left to right. You may need tension/pull lines to control the drop.
The next lower line needs to be below the grain wane from the crotch/fork you have to determine that. You can do that while on the stump or just cut it once the tree is felled. This would depend on how it leans and what dangers you may be facing.
Finally, you have a straight log to get nice planks from.

Unless... of course... you want that crotch to remain attached to mill for some kind of table top effect. This just depends on preference.
 

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Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
Hold on to the crotches, you can often get some beautiful veneer out of them.

I recommend you check with the sawyer. Some will not accept logs from a homesite due to imbedded metal.

Treat the lumber for borers.

Dont wait till you’ve got a truckload of lumber to fix up a drying rack!
 

Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
Bob not sure where you are, (and that is important in searching out a sawyer) but have a look at this and maybe you can call a few people:

Additionally, you can search the wood mizer website as they have "members" (people who have purchased a bandsaw mill) that are "in the business"
I say that a little "tongue in cheek" since I could buy a wood mizer tomorrow, but that would certainly not make me an expert!
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
1. You need a tree service company to take the tree down safely because it's near your home. They'll remove the crown in sections before taking down the trunk.
2. Then you can measure how long the trunk is up to just below the first set of limbs (24',30' etc.) and have them cut it in 2-4 sections. You'll need about a 12' section for a 10'l table after the sawn boards are dried and trimmed.
3. Your first problem is finding a local sawmill in Moore county (Southern Pines) and getting the logs to the sawmill. The boards have to be air dried for several months before they can go into a kiln for final drying and sterilization. Where can you store the lumber and keep it dry with good air circulation?

 
Last edited:

Oka

Casey
Corporate Member
You can rent (or if you know someone) a penetrating radar these days that can identify any metal in the logs. I use them for identifying post tension cable in concrete prior to boring. This will tell you if there is metal in the log and where it is b\ut does not tell you the depth.
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
Jack Murdock saw4you here on the forum He is a sawyer 919 669 1859 tell him the other jack skymaster urns told you

The OP is in Southern Pines. Jack will do a nice job but how is he gonna get his logs to Jack in Bunn, NC? 100 miles each way.
 

BobJr

New User
Bob
Not sure if this answers the question, but I lined your pixs based on how I would approach felling the tree.
The bottom line is the felling cut and that needs to be above the burl or twisty grain. Typically 8-18" above the ground. You just have to determine where that is. This would be the last cut. Also if you get too close to the ground often there can be rocks of other obtrusion's that really destroy your blade. I have hit rocks with oak before so just depends on the environment it grew in.
The top 3 lines I would do after limbing it out as much as possible, then cut left to right. You may need tension/pull lines to control the drop.
The next lower line needs to be below the grain wane from the crotch/fork you have to determine that. You can do that while on the stump or just cut it once the tree is felled. This would depend on how it leans and what dangers you may be facing.
Finally, you have a straight log to get nice planks from.

Unless... of course... you want that crotch to remain attached to mill for some kind of table top effect. This just depends on preference.

Thanks Casey! I will leave the actual cutting to the professionals but I like your thinking. I’m thinking of using the crotch for a slab or two.
 

BobJr

New User
Bob
Hold on to the crotches, you can often get some beautiful veneer out of them.

I recommend you check with the sawyer. Some will not accept logs from a homesite due to imbedded metal.

Treat the lumber for borers.

Dont wait till you’ve got a truckload of lumber to fix up a drying rack!
Great tips, thank you! Did not think about treating it. Makes sense
 

BobJr

New User
Bob
Bob not sure where you are, (and that is important in searching out a sawyer) but have a look at this and maybe you can call a few people:

Additionally, you can search the wood mizer website as they have "members" (people who have purchased a bandsaw mill) that are "in the business"
I say that a little "tongue in cheek" since I could buy a wood mizer tomorrow, but that would certainly not make me an expert!
Wow thanks! Didn’t know about most of these
 

BobJr

New User
Bob
1. You need a tree service company to take the tree down safely because it's near your home. They'll remove the crown in sections before taking down the trunk.
2. Then you can measure how long the trunk is up to just below the first set of limbs (24',30' etc.) and have them cut it in 2-4 sections. You'll need about a 12' section for a 10'l table after the sawn boards are dried and trimmed.
3. Your first problem is finding a local sawmill in Moore county (Southern Pines) and getting the logs to the sawmill. The boards have to be air dried for several months before they can go into a kiln for final drying and sterilization. Where can you store the lumber and keep it dry with good air circulation?

Great advice, thank you. I have plenty of space in the back to air dry if I can do it outside (obviously slower). I’ve also got a 16 ft shed and an extra dehumidifier I wonder if that would be a better option
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
Two stainless steel nails
I would’ve never done such a thing to a beautiful tree, it’s left from the previous owners :)

Unless you can pull them out (all of the nail) expect a blade or two fee, when you have it milled. I would be upfront with the sawyer about it also. Because they can open it up with a junk blade. Then finish with a new blade.
 

BobJr

New User
Bob
Unless you can pull them out (all of the nail) expect a blade or two fee, when you have it milled. I would be upfront with the sawyer about it also. Because they can open it up with a junk blade. Then finish with a new blade.
Good tip! I took them out when I bought the house to make sure they were SS and gently tapped them back in so I don’t think it will be an issue. But might as well just go take them out tomorrow. Thanks!
 

blackhawk

Brad
Corporate Member
You should definitely purchase this book: https://www.amazon.com/Fine-Woodworking-Wood-How-Dry/dp/091880454X

It is a wealth of information, especially on drying and setting up your stack. When you air dry, you need a strong base to place your stack on and you definitely need stickers between every layer. Air movement is a must, so I prefer air drying outdoors. I will then bring wood as I need it into my conditioned shop for several weeks to allow it to acclimate before using.
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
Besides for the info already mentioned on air frying. Be sure and stack on a completely level platform (side to side & front to back). Wet wood acts like memory foam. When it dries I will hold the shape it was stacked on.

Don't dry too fast either, like place in the direct sun or your have a bunch of cracked board even if you ancorseal the ends.

Every species has it's maximum allowable moisture content loss per day before defects (splitting occurs) the maxium allowable moisture content loss per day is also based on thickness. The thicker the wood the slower it has to dry. Walnut is very easy to air dry successfully. But oaks not so much.
 

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