Face frame attachment
- Thread starter rfetter
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- attachment face frame
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You will have long grain to long grain so a good glue joint will be stronger than the wood. You can use the biscuits for allignment. I used the Fastcap blind nails on a media cabinet I'm working on to hold the face frame in allignment and tight while the glue dried. Best $10 I've spent in a while.
If the stiles/rails on the face frame are wider than the carcass wall thickness, I usually rabbet the back of the face frame to match the carcass. (I don't have a biscuit set up). Gives a little more glue surface (i.e the depth of the rebate). Probably more work than necessary, but haven't had any fail yet. I use this method on cabinets mostly, not having made too many bookcases.
On the couple I have made where the face is the same width as the side, I just glue on the facing edge. However, I have never hung doors from one like that (I used European hinges set into the side wall for the one that had doors).
Go
On the couple I have made where the face is the same width as the side, I just glue on the facing edge. However, I have never hung doors from one like that (I used European hinges set into the side wall for the one that had doors).
Go
If it is built in, then you could kreg it together. I love using pocket screws, they hold great. If it is a stand alone then you should use biscuits. Not really overkill, it would make it a lot easier(lining it up). It doesn't take very long to biscuit or kreg it. I think, if it were me, I would feel more comfortable doing one of those rather than just glueing it.
Chad
Chad
Just make your slots extra long to allow for some registration wiggle room. Norm used this method in one of his projects but went around the cabinet with a slot cutter bit in his router and installed the biscuits in the face frame. I think you could just double cut the slots with the biscuit cutter and be OK.
I just added a oak face frame to an oak bookcase in a build right now. I made the face frame using the kreg poket hole jig and then attach the frame to the case with glue and used and brads across the bottom and top and a few pins on the sides and clamps. I have since added base mold that covers the bottom where I nailed with glue, clamps and a few pins, and when I get my cove molding cut I will use it as crown that will cover the brads across the top. I made the face frame slight wider than the case and once the glue dried I used a flush cut bit on the outside of the case, and left about a 1/4" overhange on the inside.
I've been experimenting with pocket hole screws, dowels and biscuits.
- Assembling cabinets with pocket hole screws is great. The only issue is ensuring the parts stay aligned while driving the screws (prefinished plywood is rather slippery). Biscuits and glue are good. Dowels are very strong but too much work, and require a slow setting glue.
- For face frames, pocket hole screws are outstanding, provided the rails/ stiles are wide enough for two screws. For narrower stock, I prefer dowels.
- Attaching a face frame with pocket hole screws works great for cabinets where you won't see the sides. But, there is a lot of clamping involved to ensure the face frame stays in position. Face frame biscuits, glue and clamps work great. Next cabinet, I think I'll use biscuits/ dowels for alignment (no glue), and pocket hole screws.
I do it this way also. I have a router set up just to cut slot in to the carcass hten install biscuits around the frame
++1.
I always used biscuits to help out since I was one man shop. Very strong joint.
Red
i must be missing something ............. every biscuit i have ever used left some play in the alignment that was at least as much as you can reasonably expect out of pocket holes with minimal clamping so how exactly does this help? dowels i could see as an alignment helper but biscuits ???? like i said i must be missing something
Biscuits help with squaring the face frame to the cabinet. Yes, there is some slop but once the frame is that close to square, clamps will bring it in. I agree, pocket screws will work also but then you have to get inside the cabinet or face frame to drive the screws and some people don't like to see the pocket holes.
George
George
Biscuits have some play along their length, but are rigid along their width. So, if you have a face frame with rails and stiles, and put biscuits in both...the rail biscuits move left-right but not up-down, and the stile biscuits move up-down but not left-right. The end result is a tight fit that [STRIKE]requires extreme pounding with a deadblow hammer until you remove that one stray biscuit that doesn't quite seat because you sneezed when you cut the slot and holy cow the glue is setting would you PLEASE get into place[/STRIKE] is perfectly aligned.
Very funny, Bas!
Where do u come up w/these things!
Where do u come up w/these things!
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