End Grain Staining

[The A Train]

I will be building a new table top for a dresser we picked up. I have never had good luck getting a nice smooth surface on the end grain. What is the typical method for staining and finishing end grain? Im aware that it can become darker due to how porous the end grain is. Should I sand to 320-400, stain, then finish?

 

[walnutjerry]

I have used BLO on end grain before putting the stain on ------ It seems to reduce the amount of absorption of stain thus giving a more uniform color as compared to face surface of the wood. I suggest trying it on a scrap piece first to see the results.


Jerry

 

[Joe Scharle]

Finer grain paper will tend to burnish the grain and reduce the darkening effect by leveling the end grain. And since I pretreat with dewaxed shellac or BLO, the effect is further reduced.
And finally, I save some cutoffs from my project and experiment.

 

[Rwe2156]

Realistically its always going to stain darker, even with a sealer, but a sealer does help. Try Seal A Cell.

Also try sanding all the way to 600.

 

[Gofor]

Depends on the wood. I have gotten a really close match of end-to-long-grain on both white oak and black walnut by sanding to 400 grit using a ROS (600 if hand sanding with a block). The walnut was not stained, but does darken with a varnish, but with the sanding there is no noticeable difference in color. A really sharp plane across the end grain helps a lot. Porous woods like pine or red oak will most likely require a pore filler. After sanding and before staining, wipe it with mineral spirits (MS) to see if the natural color is consistent and that you have gotten the entire surface free of any lower grit sanding marks. In my experience, when it has looked good when wet with the MS, it stains and finishes the same. If using a finish incompatible with MS, clean off the MS with alcohol or naptha.

Actually, any solvent that wets the surface will work. I prefer MS because the slow evaporation rate gives me enough time to closely inspect the area without raising the grain like water does. Alcohol, lacquer thinner, etc evaporate too quickly for my liking.

Go

 

[marinosr]

As others have said, end grain is always going to be problematic. Making breadboard ends will of course fix the problem of the color, but it's maybe not the aesthetic you're looking for.

That being said, I just want to put in a plug for Charles Neil's pre-color conditioner. I have used it on two projects now, and it really does work miracles to control uneven staining... It works great on blotchy woods for face grain (I've used it on pine and poplar), but it also works to control end-grain color differences... way better than shellac for both face and end grain. You can look up other reliable testimonies on the internet.

For my end grain application, I put a paper towel soaked in the conditioner and let it sit on the end grain for a good while to really get saturated. Then I dried, sanded, and did it again. Then, when I was staining, I was very judicious in my application of the stain on the end grain... I did multiple applications of stain on the long grain but only one and a half applications on the end grain. (The half application was done by applying it without stirring the stain first.) If you're careful, you can get an excellent color match. Of course, the texture of end grain will always be a bit different and give a different visual, but the results were excellent IMO. I wish I had pics, but I don't, and now the console table I did this on is in storage.

You can pick up the product here: http://www.cn-woodworking.com/cn-pre-color-conditioner/

I swear I'm not being paid for this endorsement... It just really works!