End Grain Question

[Matt]

Not sure if this should go here or in "Finishing", anyway here goes:

What do you do to get a bowl (or other turned object) to finish evenly? I have been using either Waterlox or Danish Oil on the bowls I have turned thus far and always get massive absorption of finish in a couple spots, coincidentally 180deg apart (i.e. end grain).

The Waterlox has enough varnish that it will even out pretty well after a few coats, but danish oil - forget it. LOML thinks it looks great, it irritates me:BangHead:

Should I be sealing the wood first? If so with what? But then won't that affect application of an oil finish? Am I just not being patient enough and doing a good enough job sanding (I have been going to 220grit)?

One final thought - I do notice extra absorption of Danish Oil in end grain in other (non turned projects) I have done, but nothing like this. I was pouring oil on a bowl the other night and it soaked it up like crazy. I poured more on - it soaked it up (this was after wiping on was getting me nowhere). I didn't notice excess oil on the opposite side of the wall (i.e. interior or exterior), so it is like the black hole of finish exists and the center is just West of the headstock of my lathe!8-O

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

 

[DaveO]

End grain is going to soak up more finish than face or edge grain due to the orientation of the wood cells. Picture a bunch of straws, end grain is the open ends. Sanding end grain to a grit or two higher can work with stains, I don't know about the success of that technique with oil finishes, and selective sanding only end grain on a turned piece is going to be very difficult. If you have had good results with Waterlox, then I would continue using it. Or try a non-penetrating finish like lacquer, which you can bring to a very smooth surface by rubbing out between coats.
I have read that sealing with a very light cut of shellac .5-1# cut can help to even out the absorption in woods that blotch. But that goes against my brain's laws of physics in the fact that if you seal something you will limit the absorption across the whole piece.
So I await answers for folks that actually have good suggestions.
Dave

 

[walnutjerry]

Not sure if this should go here or in "Finishing", anyway here goes:

What do you do to get a bowl (or other turned object) to finish evenly? I have been using either Waterlox or Danish Oil on the bowls I have turned thus far and always get massive absorption of finish in a couple spots, coincidentally 180deg apart (i.e. end grain).

.

Matt--------I am by no means an expert but my experience with the end grain on the bud vases I do (pictured in my album) gave me a chance to experiment a little. :eusa_clap

Have you tried wet sanding the oil finish? I usually load the area with oil/poly mixture and start with 220 wet/dry carbide paper( purchased at an auto supply store). It will form a slurry and "fill" the end grain. The wet sanding is much more agressive than the dry sanding. Let the piece dry and repeat with finer grit. Continue doing that until you see the finish you are looking for.

Hope this helps!! Jerry

 

[JRD]

Matt,

I'm with Dave.

All I have ever used is a Lacquer finish. I do wonder though what would happen if you used a wood sealer on the bowl first. Would that limit the amount of finish that would be absorbed on the end grain?

Don't know, but it might be worth a try.

Jim

 

[woodguy1975]

Spray it with lacquer. That is what I used to use on my bowls. Start with a coat of sanding sealer and then apply 4-6 coats of lacquer. Then you can buff to a beautiful sheen.

 

[frigator]

Not sure about bowls, but with table tops and desk tops I have sealed the end grain edges with a wash coat of shellac, a light 1lb cut and then sand most of it off. The oil will still penetrate, just not so much that it darkens up. You can also use a glue sizing that will limit oil penetration, but the shellac seems easier. I also use shellac to even out stain or oil absorption in birch ply which seems to also take the oil unevenly.

 

[Matt]

Thanks for all the suggestions, I will probably try any and all of them:5thanks:

I should note that this was occuring after multiple coats of danish oil and allowing a minimum of 24hrs and usually much more (hey, I don't get into the shop as much as I would like):roll: between coats.

Thanks again:icon_thum

 

[jeff...]

Very limited turning experence, but much in Lacquer and poly urathane finishes. Lacquar sanding seal should help close the black hole.

Actually the last red chopping block (red oak), I just rubbed it out with olive oil and let it go. That was a few months ago and it goes into the dish washer, including high heat drying, just about evey day, with no signs of splitting cupping or check yet. it does however have some good clever marks in it

I'm always a little conserned about using something like lacquar on a plate or bowl, I work with it frequently and know it's toxic.

Anyways night all...