End grain joints ?

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Glennbear

Moderator
Glenn
I recently acquired some nice kiln dried S4S oak of varying widths but most of it is less than 24" long. I could use some of this in upcoming projects but ideally I would like to make some longer lengths. I know that molding manufacturers amongst others use finger joints but is there another way to join stock end grain to end grain ? I have a glue joint cutter for my shaper but not a finger joint shaper cutter or router bit. Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions :wsmile:
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
You could make some kind of scarf joint on the band saw, but it would be slow and use up a few inches of length.
 

FredP

Fred
Corporate Member
lap joints work as do scarf joints with slots cut for splines. unfortunately they will still look like you cheated!:gar-La; butcher block boards?
 

Glennbear

Moderator
Glenn
You could make some kind of scarf joint on the band saw, but it would be slow and use up a few inches of length.

Time I have :gar-La; scarf joint = opposing 45 degree miters ? :icon_scra

lap joints work as do scarf joints with slots cut for splines. unfortunately they will still look like you cheated!:gar-La; butcher block boards?

Apperance is not a major consideration in the usage I have planned, would biscuits work in lieu of splines ? :dontknow: Lap joints = 1/2 thickness cut away on each end grain ? :icon_scra I am really showing my limited joinery experience here but I have oodles of this stuff and would like to use as much as possible :rotflm: I still have massive quantities of longleaf pine for panels etc but I would like to use this oak for cabinet frames , aprons etc.
 

FredP

Fred
Corporate Member
Time I have :gar-La; scarf joint = opposing 45 degree miters ? :icon_scra



Apperance is not a major consideration in the usage I have planned, would biscuits work in lieu of splines ? :dontknow: Lap joints = 1/2 thickness cut away on each end grain ? :icon_scra I am really showing my limited joinery experience here but I have oodles of this stuff and would like to use as much as possible :rotflm: I still have massive quantities of longleaf pine for panels etc but I would like to use this oak for cabinet frames , aprons etc.

scarf joints are usually longer angles than a 45 but 45's would work and so would biskits but [there's always a but] in your usage you would want to backup the joints. just an endgrain joint wont be very strong but if you made 2 boards with these joints glued together with the joints not right on top of each other [staggered] if will be much stronger. dowels will also work.:gar-La; it would be much easier to show ya than to type it for ya!:rotflm:
 

gator

George
Corporate Member
Once you have the boards planed to size, you could try pocket screws.

George
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
Normally a simple scarf joint is 8 to 1 or the length is 8 times the thickness.

More complex compound scarf joints can be shorter maybe 2.5 to 1 but 45° would be 1 to 1 and I'm pretty sure that would be very weak.
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Usage is a player also. If the stress on the board is through the face, a lap type joint would probably suffice, with a scarf joint (per Mike's 8:1 ratio) being the strongest. Biscuits could be used in low stress areas. If the stress is across the face, a finger type joint (the longer the better) would give the most long-grain to long grain glue surface. A mortise/tenon, floating tenon or dowels would provide long grain glue surface in both directions, and increasing depth would add strength. If the stress is pulling along the length of the board, a dovetail would be best. If it is compression stress along the length (i.e. table leg), tenon or dowel type joints would provide alignment as well as resist any lateral forces.

The glue is also a player. PVA glues may creep over time, so something like a plastic resin glue might be better for the long term.

Just my thoughts based on what I think I understand from what I read here.:icon_scra

Go
 

cpw

New User
Charles
Glenn,

This might be a bit of overkill, but how about this?

IMG_0975.JPG
 

JimmyC

New User
Jimmy
Depending on how many shorts you received, you may think about buying some longer wood for that long runs on a project and use the shorts that you have to fill in. When you add in the glue, tooling use and your personal time, you might not be saving anything :dontknow:eek:ver what you can purchase FSRO from one of the local sawyers. Or just figure some small projects to do with the wood you have.

Jimmy:mrgreen:
 
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