End grain gluing red oak

jpaul

John
Senior User
I'm making some serving trays out of red oak and the border pieces will be mitered at the ends with the tray bottom sitting in dados. I think I heard one time that it helps to mix regular wood glue with water, equal parts, and paint the glue joints and then let dry before final gluing. Does this sound legit? I'm assuming that the thinned glue will soak into the pores which will give the final glue more surface area to stick to.
This is the first time I've done joints like this with red oak and as porous as it is it makes sense.
Thanks for your input.
 

oldtexasdog

OTD
Corporate Member
Never heard of that technique and I do quite a few of cutting and charcuterie boards I am still rather new at this and I am not familiar with your application so I maybe wrong but I have always used Tightbond and Pressure Panel Clamps that have worked quit well so far.Ohhh-I do use other clamps also just can't have enough.

 
Last edited:

creasman

Jim
Staff member
Corporate Member
I've done that with hide glue. It sticks to itself just as easy as it sticks to wood. By painting the end grain first you keep the final application from soaking in too quickly.
 

oldtexasdog

OTD
Corporate Member
Thanks Jim I just learned something new. That;s what this site is all about!!
 

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JNCarr

Joe
Corporate Member
In general, PVA glues (Titebond 1, 2, 3, other brands) do not stick well to themselves once the first layer has dried. Hide glues do.
 

oldtexasdog

OTD
Corporate Member
Hide glues due to their water solubility do not lend themselves to cutting, charcuterie, or any board that will need to be washed ,
 

chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
Might I suggest adding contrasting colored splines to the joints rather than relying on end grain gluing for the joint integrity?
 

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