End-grain cutting board

[Dave Peterson]

[h=5]Checkerboard cutting board. This took me about 2 weeks of cutting, gluing and sanding. The checkerboard is end-grain walnut and white oak. There is then a veneer-thickness of walnut that goes all the way around it, then a wide band of holly (from our property), and the outside is cherry. It sits on four little rubber feet to keep it off of the counter top. It is 16" wide and 10.5" tall. It is 1.25" thick. Finish is walnut oil (food safe).[/h]

 

[Canuck]

Very nice work! :eusa_clap Almost too nice to cut on.

Creating end grain cutting boards are really a long process when it comes to sequencing material, many, many glueups and our favorite...sanding!

You really took it another few steps in adding the nice inlay and banding.

It will treasured for a very long time.

Thanks for sharing!

Wayne

 

[llucas]

I REALLY like the choice and combinations of the different woods...that IS too nice to take a knife to. Just hang it on the wall in the kitchen for at least 6 months before you put it to work. Great result!

 

[Dave Peterson]

You guys have been talking to my wife. everything I make for USE is "ohhhh, that is too pretty to use!"

 

[Charlie]

Very nice. As stated, too nice to use.

 

[Barron]

Looks great! How did you adjust for wood movement?

 

[Dave Peterson]

Looks great! How did you adjust for wood movement?

Prayer? I used dry wood and hope that the frame around it will keep it from moving. I managed to not make any 'gaps' between the rows (judicious use of the joiner) and used titebond III. Hoping for the best.

 

[Bill Clemmons]

Very, very nice, Dave. But I'm afraid I too fall in the "too nice to use" camp.

 

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> hope that the frame around it will keep it from moving

The frame around the field is a big mistake. The solid wood field will want to expand and contract with changes in the wood moisture content. The solid wood frame will try to restrict this movement and something will have to give. Either some of the glue joints will fail or there will be severe warping. It's a standard wood working rule not use any construction that solidly attaches to a cross grain board or assembly. You must always avoid cross grain situations.

I would suggest you cut off the long grain frame pieces and you can salvage the field and use it as your cutting board.

 

[Dave Peterson]

>>>> hope that the frame around it will keep it from moving

The frame around the field is a big mistake. The solid wood field will want to expand and contract with changes in the wood moisture content. The solid wood frame will try to restrict this movement and something will have to give. Either some of the glue joints will fail or there will be severe warping. It's a standard wood working rule not use any construction that solidly attaches to a cross grain board or assembly. You must always avoid cross grain situations.

I would suggest you cut off the long grain frame pieces and you can salvage the field and use it as your cutting board.

The frame was an afterthought, as the checkerboard pattern just seemed to small for a cutting board. I will give this some strong consideration.

Wife was just consulted....she says, "I will take my chances". I won't do it again, but what is done is done. I told her I could cut off the border, and she just shook her head.

 

[Matt Furjanic]

Pretty harsh there Howard! But, unfortunately you are probably right. You might get lucky, Dave, if you finish both sides of the board, and keep it in an air-conditioned environment. Don't let water stand on it, or get it in a humid place. Nice job though - loc
ve your choice of contrasting woods.

 

[Jeff]

I like it, very nice job. Howard is correct, not critical.

I think that I'd chance it. If it blows apart it is what it is and can be reincarnated as a cutting board!

 

[Dave Peterson]

Howard was just 'keeping it real'. I posted this on two other wood forums and others also commented on their concern for wood movement. Both sides were given a coat of walnut oil (and will most likely be given more coats. My wife won't use it and won't let me use it, and it will live out it's history as a big trivet in the middle of her dining room table. Humidity is a little bit lower in the house than in my shop, but It won't get exposed to any water. I joked with my wife last night that if I want to make a cutting board that I can actually use, I better just round the corners and sand a piece a plywood. I have made only one cutting board that I can actually use, and it is a solid piece of white oak crotch wood that covers one sink top. It gets used during canning season.

This forum is for asking questions, and to get critiqued, make comments, and to show off our work to people who appreciate the effort that went into making our wood craft/wood art.

 

[LeftyTom]

Looks spiffy, Dave. You sure how to put your contrasting woods together nicely.

 

[llucas]

"This forum is for asking questions, and to get critiqued, make comments, and to show off our work to people who appreciate the effort that went into making our wood craft/wood art. "

I love this site...a great balance between common sense and respect.

 

[thsb]

It looks great. I agree with your wife, take your chances and it it ends up that there really is a problem you can address it then.

 

[DWSmith]

Pretty harsh there Howard!

Not a bit harsh. The wood movement will create a problem down the road no matter how little moisture is near it, how little it is used or what finish was used. Moisture will find its way into the wood. That is a fact of life.

 

[jglord]

Folks are probably correct. The moisture will cause problems, but it is hard to say how soon. I messed-up the bread board ends on a table and it took quite a few years for the ends to split. By that time circumstances had changed (3 children added to our crew ;-) ) and the table had been relegated to a side table.
Enjoy your piece, the nature of wood will prevail no matter what you do. The main, end grain body, will probably be fine. Count it as a learning experience.
That's my 2 cents worth.