Enclosing the motor on a contractor saw.

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Matt Schnurbusch

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Matt
I just looked at Eric's (cubicdissection) post regarding his new and improved dust collection for his saw. Really cool Eric.

I didn't want to hijack his thread, but this is something that I have been giving some thought to recently.

My only concern with Eric's design is what happens if (more like WHEN) I forget to remove it before I tilt the blade? My guess is that the belt would take a beating, and probably not survive more than a few times.

I have been thinking about boxing in the motor. Basically building a very light weight 1/4" ply box, or probably tempered hardboard, that I could suspend on the back of the saw chassis. To get around the motor bumping the top when tilted I was planing to use magnets to secure it. That way, when I forget to remove the top, the motor could just push it up out of the way.

Anyone have any thoughts on boxing in the motor, as far is heat is concerned? Or anything else for that matter?
 

Gotcha6

Dennis
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Corporate Member
Motor ventilation would be an issue on a continuous use setup. I just suggested in the other thread the possibility of mounting a second piece which would pivot around on the same axis as the blade tilt mechanism. This piece could lap over the fixed piece and sweep around its face. Think this would work for you?
 

cubicdissection

New User
Eric
My only concern with Eric's design is what happens if (more like WHEN) I forget to remove it before I tilt the blade? My guess is that the belt would take a beating, and probably not survive more than a few times.

Actually, that's a really good question. As I mentioned in the other thread, my solution will likely be something that can hang off the angle adjust knob and remind you to remove the rear dust guards.


However, life's not perfect, so it would be good to know what can happen if you forget to remove it. My guess is that the magnets will slide quite easily, and the acrylic guard would move out of the way. Worst case it binds against the trunnion and is broken against the mechanical advantage.

In the interest of science I volunteer to try it out Monday....that is. put the guard in place and crank her from 90 to 45. Be interesting to see what breaks :gar-La;
 

Dudelive

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Dude
A combination on what Dennis suggested and where I posted as to taking the dust port from the bottom. That way you will not have overheat issues with a motor 'cause it would be totally open to fresh air.
 

Gotcha6

Dennis
Staff member
Corporate Member
Thinking this thing through a little more, it might be a good idea to enclose the motor on the sides & rear, just leave a large enough opening in the bottom. This would induce a draft to help cool the motor. Whaddaya think?
 

Charles Lent

Charley
Corporate Member
You could make an "enclosed" outfeed table/cabinet. This would cover and completely surround the motor and belt with clearance for them to move, because of it's larger size. If you didn't run the saw for hours at a time, motor heat build-up would not be a problem. If you made it even bigger to include the space under the saw you would have an enclosed saw table/outfeed table that would quiet the saw and catch most of the sawdust. If it had no bottom and sat flush on the floor, you could just lift and move it every few months to clean up the sawdust.

Just a few free ideas to ponder.

Charley
 
T

toolferone

As far as enclosing, all cabinet saws have enclosed motors, so should be no problem. The motors are TEFC (totaly enclosed fan cooled).
 

cubicdissection

New User
Eric
OK, swung by the shop and tilted the blade with the rear cover in. I did not have the saw running. The bottom cover just slid out of the way; belt kinked up a bit in the slot but no damage. If the saw were running, it would have chafed though. I was able to keep cranking up until the trunnion jammed up against the top section of the guard, at which point it just quit moving. Back the angle off and removed the pieces without incident.
 
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