Drawer construction question

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lwhughes149

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Lorraine
I find myself with a memory laps and the notes are running together. I find two different opinions so I would like to poll the woodworkers. What is space between drawer and inside of case. One opinion is 1/8 on each side to equal 1/4 and other opinion is 1/16 on each side to get 1/8. I have solid wood construction for case not plywood if it makes a difference. DL my notes are confusing me but I think we had 1/8 on each side.
 

DaveO

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DaveO
I would say a 1/16th per side or less. You won't get much movement in the side to side aspect with solid wood because the grain will be oriented that way. Top to bottom movement will be greatest. If you leave to much space the drawer can skew and bind easier. I leave just enough so it isn't a tight fit. This is assuming that you are using wooden guides and grooves in the drawer sides. If you are using metal ball bearing slides, then it is a 1/2"+ per side and it is better to go larger than smaller. And piston fit drawers without any guides, should be exactly that, as tight of a fit as possible while still allowing free movement.
Dave:)
 
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D L Ames

New User
D L Ames
Lorraine, I think what you and I were discussing was the amount of space at the top of the drawer. I concur with Dave's explanation above.

D L
 

Ray Martin

New User
Ray
Lorraine,

How big are these drawers? Smaller pieces will have less movement simply because there is less material to gain or loose moisture. And a good finish helps mitigate even that. I agree with Dave on the spacing. I think there might be some confusion though (and I get confused easily). When you talk about spacing, I assume that you're talking about the drawer front and it spacing from the face frame.

Dave... when you mentioned the 1/2"+ for sides, were you talking about the drawer body / sides rather than the front?

Ray
 

DaveO

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DaveO
Ray Martin said:
Dave... when you mentioned the 1/2"+ for sides, were you talking about the drawer body / sides rather than the front?

Ray

Yes, when you are using ball bearing slides and a false drawer front.
The front would be inset or overlaid depending on the style of the piece
Dave:)
 

frigator

New User
Robin Frierson
I usually make mine the same size as the opening, maybe a hair under, then handplane to fit just right.
 

woodguy1975

New User
John
I'm with Frigator on this one. According to the english piston fit method you should make the drawer the exact size of the opening and then handplane to get that perfect piston motion. Too loose and you'll get racking which can bind up the drawer. The mark of fine craftsmanship is good fitting drawers. :icon_thum
 
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lwhughes149

New User
Lorraine
Building to the exact size of the drawer opening and handplaning down sounds good if you are good with the planer which I am not. The 1/16 per side sounds good to me. That makes the side height 1/8 shorter than the opening and the back length 1/8 shorter than the opening. So it is off to the shop I go. thanks
 
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