DP chuck

[pop-pop]

Last year I bought a Nova Viking direct-drive drill press from Klingspor and generally love the machine. A shortcoming is the chuck. Forstner Bits and small twist bits sometimes slide upward into the jaws. I use the electronic depth stop a lot and that occasional bit shank slippage fubars that. And yes, I tighten all three holes firmly.

I first e-mailed TeknaTool support and got no response. Through Klingspor, I talked to a sales rep and he promptly arranged a replacement chuck. He did note these chucks are Chinese purchased at a price point. The replacement chuck is no better and may even be slightly worse.

Also, I have some chuck keys that are over 60 years old and none have shown the wear that this one has.

A direct-drive DP has no belt drag so it is hard to rotate the chuck barrel manually since the spindle won’t stay put so I started looking at keyless chucks because one can use both hands. This DP has an electronic lock that sorta works to hold the spindle. I usually use the chuck key with the wooden knob whilst changing bits.

I am considering biting the bullet and spending a few Benjamins on a high quality chuck that I can rely on. One design of interest is a hybrid chuck which is a keyless chuck that also has a key for final tightening and initial loosening.

Questions for those with machining and toolmaking experience:
1. Any downsides to a hybrid chuck?
2. What chuck brand(s) are reliable (or conversely should be avoided).
3. Any machinist tricks to make a chuck “bite” better?

 

[marinosr]

Not answering your questions, I realize, but... Since the press takes a 33 jacobs taper, there are SO many high quality vintage Jacobs chucks you can get on eBay for $50. Just make sure they show the jaws closing tightly with little or no "belling" of the jaws. If ever necessary, rebuild kits for the jaws are also readily available, including NOS, for like $25. You have to spend a lot to match the old quality.

 

[Craptastic]

Complain to Klingspor.

If they don't know they can't fix it.

 

[pop-pop]

Consulted with my brother (retired toolmaker) in upstate NY and decided to buy a Jacobs ball bearing chuck. It comes nice “adult” chuck key.

Checked the runout using a non-precision piece of stainless and the T.I.R. was 0.0003” (note that is three tenths not three thou).

I opted against a keyless or hybrid chuck since they are an inch or so taller and this is a benchtop press (height matters). However, the barrel turns freely enough that one can make large adjustments like when changing bits without the spindle moving much. Thus, the main advantage of a keyless chuck is satisfied well enough.

The OEM chuck range is 1-16 mm (5/8”). Had to choose between 0-1/2” and 1/8-5/8” ranges. Since I had to buy another mandrel anyway, I opted for the 0-1/2” and will swap to the OEM chuck on the rare occasions that I need to chuck 5/8”.

I chucked a Forstner with the DP off and pulled as hard as I could on the handle against a block of wood and the bit did not slide up the jaws.

 

[Oka]

Now that's a Chuck..... I have a keyless that works well no complaints. It was a bit pricy... When I got it.

 

[pop-pop]

Now that's a Chuck..... I have a keyless that works well no complaints. It was a bit pricy... When I got it.

This one was from MSC direct and was $189.57 with an online discount. And it’s a chuck!

 

[Mike Davis]

Hard to beat Jacobs brand. I have drooled over one but never felt the demand enough to spend so much. I put a mid-priced replacement on the Grizzly DP that I got for free because the "belt would not tighten".