design question

[thsb]

I saw this bookshelf and want to try to do something similar. I will make the 8 boxes out of cherry. not sure if i will put a back on them but probably will.

my primary question was with the metal part of it. any suggestions on materials and/or the best way to hold the boxes up? it seems like there is a type of clamp below each corner to support the boxes but i am not sure what they are.

any help appreciated. finally feel recharged after vacation to get another project going.

thanks,
tim

 

[KenOfCary]

There is probably a more elegant solution but if you use hollow pipe you could simply screw in a self taping metal screw on the back side of the pole and add a washer above it to hold up the wood. Hollow pipe would also be lighter than solid.

 

[Berta]

I am thinking joining separate pieces of pipe with pipe couplers.

 

[Mike Davis]

The feet and spacers are simply larger diameter pipe.

 

[Phil S]

I would use a full piece of 1" electrical conduit and then add chrome 1 1/4" shower curtain rod cut into pieces to go between and within the boxes. A 1 1/8" washer under each box would help distribute the pressure.

 

[SubGuy]

+1

I would use a full piece of 1" electrical conduit and then add chrome 1 1/4" shower curtain rod cut into pieces to go between and within the boxes. A 1 1/8" washer under each box would help distribute the pressure.

 

[Dave Richards]

I found the website for the retailer and pulled off this screen shot.

It appears that the posts are the same diameter all the way up except perhaps for the feet. There appear to be pins inserted through holes in the posts below the bottoms of the boxes. I looked for assembly instructions on their website but had no luck.

I think it would be best to make the posts as one piece. Every joint you add will be a potential wobbly spot.

 

[Jeff]

There appear to be pins inserted through holes in the posts below the bottoms of the boxes.

Like spring pins?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-spring-pins/=sqdav4

 

[Dave Richards]

Don't know. To me they look bigger and more presentable.

 

[Volksdad]

I made some furniture years ago based on using 1/2" threaded rod and nuts and washers. You could alter the design here to accommodate the same. 3/4" rod works as well.

It would be visually interesting, strong enough to climb on and extremely stable. The rod would adjust for uneven floors.

 

[Jeff]

Don't know. To me they look bigger and more presentable.

The stainless steel pins are available in a range of sizes up to 0.5" d x 4" long. Probably not a chrome polished look though.

 

[Dave Richards]

To me those pins look like they are chrome plated and have a head on them. Maybe they are some sort of fancy barrel bolts.

 

[Jeff]

A senior moment for me this morning.

If portability isn't needed check out FWW #240 by Dan Chaffin. It's the same idea but the individual boxes are hung from the walls using French cleats.

 

[chris_goris]

I would use SS pipe and some of these:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#shaft-collars/=sqhjvz
Hope this helps

 

[thsb]

Chris, those seem like the most efficient way to go if they are strong enough. as an aside, it is very interesting how the price ranges so dramatically depending on the size and material. i don't know how they are able to machine some of really small pieces.

 

[Jeff]

I found some information but no assembly instructions. It's made by Bludot Chicago and $1900 is a big stretch for veneered wood boxes. The vertical metal supports are 1.25" tubular metal, not rods. Check out the specs for the dimensions.

http://www.bludot.com/modern-storage/view-all-modern-storage/chicago-8-box.html

I guess that an oversized tubular spacer slides on the outside of the vertical support tubes for a little bit of spacing between the shelving units so pins are not needed. ???

 

[thsb]

Jeff, i agree about the 1900.00. i like mid-century modern stuff and i guess i am not alone because that style seems to be an excuse to charge tons of money.....
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[Roy G]

I would definitely put backs on the boxes. Without some stiffening, the whole bookcase would deform with any sideways force, like somebody leaning next to it. Or you could attach to the ceiling and floor and then you wouldn't need any backing.

Roy G

 

[chris_goris]

Chris, those seem like the most efficient way to go if they are strong enough. as an aside, it is very interesting how the price ranges so dramatically depending on the size and material. i don't know how they are able to machine some of really small pieces.

Oh Im sure for the sizes you would need, they would be plenty strong enough. The one piece with on setscrew would be your best option, in Aluminum seems most cost effective. I hadn't noticed how small they would go… 1/16" dia. shaft??? how small is the setscrew?? If you click on the part number and then product details, it opens a nice 2D drawing of the part as well. I have ordered things from Mcmaster in the past and they always have what you order (no backordering) and it arrives Jimmy Johns fast!

 

[Jeff]

Chris, you're spot on re McMaster-Carr.

The shaft collar sizes are just about anything you want and the CAD drawings have those details. That's handy too.