Design Opinions Needed...

[cpowell]

I am building a cutting board to present to a sponsor at an upcoming cub scout meeting. The board is glued up. It is 2 inches thick, 23 inches wide, 30 inches long, in walnut, S American mahogany, hard maple and cherry...heavy.

On my past cutting boards I have simply used 1 inch diameter walnut dowel stock bored/glued near each corner for support, to keep the board above the table surface for drying, and to make it easy to pick up. The guy who is getting this will be using it for his shop barbecues, etc.

I'm just concerned about having such a large span of glue joints between the legs in the cross grain direction. I used Tightbond II and feel the joint is strong but I want to be sure this board can take a pounding and not fail. Am I okay with this design?

Chuck

 

[DaveO]

I am assuming this is an end grain up cutting board. If so, and 2" thick like you said, then you have 2" of long grain to long grain glue joints on each side. I don't think that will fail. With pieces that small any movement is negligible and shouldn't cause a problem.
Dave

 

[sapwood]

Chuck/DaveO,

I'm planning on making a couple of cutting boards from a variety of small wood I've accumulated. Are cutting boards normally made with end grain up? It wouldn't look as nice, but I can see how that might handle the abuse of sharp knives better.

Quizzically,
Sapwood

 

[Dullblade]

I have never made a chopping block but was thinking about a medium size one for the kitchen. As mentioned above should I make it with the woods end grain on the cutting surfaces or the long grain up to the cutting surface.

Glues: Gorilla glue, elmers carpenters or tight Bond. I have elmers and tight bond 3. :?:

 

[cpowell]

ok, busted. I was gonna go long grain up but suppose I should do end grain up to make it more durable and hide knife marks. Guess I'll rip in the center, crosscut strips, glue up, then lightly plane both halves before glueing up the final piece.

I figured the glue should be plenty strong enough but then had second thoughts. Thanks.

Chuck

 

[Dullblade]

I am no expert especially when it comes to glue, but I watch a lot of woodworking TV and they always make it a point to show how a glued joint is stronger than the wood grain its self. Therefore I would imagine that if you carefully selected your woods (No cracks or defects) then you should have a strong board.

No lowr the boom on me and tell me how wrong I am! LOL:lol:

 

[DaveO]

End grain up cutting boards are the most durable and best on knife edges if you do a lot of chopping. Due to the small surface area each block has they have to be thick, and heavy. They don't look as pretty, but are the traditional way of making chopping blocks. I have never made one that way. I have made many edge grain up boards the are very functional as cutting boards, and look much more attractive. I make them at 1-1¼" thick with a chamfer on the edges and small rubber feet to prevent sliding and allow air flow.

Dave

 

[Dullblade]

Dang I wouldnt want to ever use that board. Very nice. What is the wood in the circle?

 

[Dullblade]

Dave or anyone else, What do you use to finish a chopping block? Just thought about that. Boy I am new at this...:saw:

 

[Ozzie-x]

Nice cutting board Dave! Touch a knife to that and the furniture police will be after you. Back to Chuck's dilemma- I would be tempted to leave it long grain. Yes the end grain is more durable, but I've seen a lot of self destructed end grain cutting boards over the years, particularly with mixed species of wood. The difference in expansion/contraction rates between species is something to think about. Some of the failures could have been due to bad glue or glueing techniques, could have been put in the dishwasher, who knows. Just my $0.02.

 

[cpowell]

Dave, there you go!!! Now I won't be able to post a pic of my lowly board!!

My boards have always been long grain up and most of the people who've gotten them are afraid to use them because they look so beautiful. I tell em to cut away. I make them to be used. Scratches and cuts on a board are OK with me. And scratches will be visible on long grain surfaces.

I generally put a roundover on the top edge to soften it a bit. Finish with good old mineral oil!

 

[DaveO]

Ditto on the mineral oil, that is what is used on the one I showed. They are for using, but if folks get upset about the scratches they can always be sanded out.
I will probably get grief for this but the wood in the center inlay in my board is Cocobolo. I have been using one with it inlayed for several years and have had no problems.
Cutting boards and dishwashers do not mix well, always use a dedicated cutting board for veggies and a plastic one for meat.
Dave