Design help for utility cabinet/ enclosure

Status
Not open for further replies.

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
My parents renovated their house last year, annexing the garage into the main living space. New hardwood floors with radiant heat. The only thing left to do is to come up with some sort of enclosure to hide the radiant heat controls.

corner_view.jpg

View image in gallery

I want to build a cabinet with a door on the front for easy access to the thermostat (that's the knob thing). To make maximum use of the space, I want to build a simple book case on top of the cabinet to hold CDs/ books.

The cabinet is going to be pretty small. The dimensions are 7 1/4" deep by 15 1/2" wide by 30" high. To match the floor, I think quartersawn white oak is an obvious choice. The bookcase will be very simple. Shiplapped back, one fixed shelf, and shelf pins for adjustable 3-4 adjustable shelves. The bookcase section will be ~48" tall.

I searched the web, and this approximates the objective:
MAC_3072D.jpg



My original idea was to do a frame-and-panel for the left side, a frame for the front, and then frame-and-panel doors. There's no right hand panel, all I'll have is a top rail (which will be secured to the wall). With the baseboard and outlets in awkward positions, it would be way too difficult to do cutouts in a real panel. I plan to run some strips of wood between the left panel and right floating rail for some stability (using pocket hole screws), like this:
american-woodworker-free-woodworking-PocketHoles.jpg



and there will be a fixed shelf of course that acts as a top to the cabinet.

So basically, this is what I envisioned (but a lot smaller):


I'm worried the piece is too small for frame and panel. Even if I make the rails and stiles only 1" wide, that leaves only ~4" for the left panel field. Ditto for the doors. A flat panel could work, but a raised panel is probably too much. Also, 3/4" material seems overkill, but if I go with 1/2" material, I can't use my cope-and-stick router bits. It's easy to do simple flat sides, but I don't want it to look boxy/ bulky, and I'd like to add a little visual interest.

The real challenge is that I need to build it here in the US and then ship it in manageable pieces to Holland, finished and ready for assembly. I plan to use a combination of dowels and pocket hole screws to make this as simple as possible. Since I can't do a lot of fine tuning, I want to use overlay doors and Euro hinges.

Obviously, I need to go to the shop and grab some scrap material and build a prototype to see what looks good, but I could use some ideas. :widea: How do I keep this simple but attractive?
 

bobby g

Bob
Corporate Member
Bas,

What is the cabinet style in the kitchen? Frameless or with face frames?

bobby g
 

Drew Roy

New User
Drew
Bas, since your folks are overseas I suggest steamed beech which is in high use in Europe. I would go a knock down face frame cabinet, rabbet out the back of the face frame for the end panels and pocket hole the inside of end panels for assembly. Precut the rough end to go over the circulation unit and allow a 3/4 scribe tab on the face frame. 1 3/4 stiles, 1 1/2 top rail and a 4 foot board. A pair of stretchers or attachment tabs that they could screw to the wall to keep the piece stable. 38N series from Blum wont intrude into the mechanical area and will allow for any minor adjustments once its there. I reccomend that you number the hinge and mortise holes so it will go back like you had it here.
And the final tid bit would be make sure that all screws and hardware is double bagged in ziplocks. Nothing sucks worse than not having what you need to put something together when you get it.....:saw: Best of luck,
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Bas,

What is the cabinet style in the kitchen? Frameless or with face frames?

bobby g
Frameless. I like your idea of using other elements in the house to help guide the design. My parents have a number of antique sideboards and cupboards, some with face frames, others without. So there's not much danger of anything clashing.

Bas, since your folks are overseas I suggest steamed beech which is in high use in Europe. I would go a knock down face frame cabinet, rabbet out the back of the face frame for the end panels and pocket hole the inside of end panels for assembly. Precut the rough end to go over the circulation unit and allow a 3/4 scribe tab on the face frame. 1 3/4 stiles, 1 1/2 top rail and a 4 foot board. A pair of stretchers or attachment tabs that they could screw to the wall to keep the piece stable. 38N series from Blum wont intrude into the mechanical area and will allow for any minor adjustments once its there. I reccomend that you number the hinge and mortise holes so it will go back like you had it here.
And the final tid bit would be make sure that all screws and hardware is double bagged in ziplocks. Nothing sucks worse than not having what you need to put something together when you get it.....:saw: Best of luck,

Since I won't be there for the installation, I don't plan on scribing the wall. Fortunately, since this is new construction, everything is dead plumb, flat and level. I used the 38N hinges for some cabinets I built recently, those would work great.

I'm slowly moving from the idea of "cabinet with bookcase on top" to "bookcase with two doors at the bottom". I like the look a face frame would provide, it would give the piece a little body and make partial overlay doors possible. On the other hand, a frameless cabinet would be easier and fewer parts. I'm not that concerned about assembly of the face frame, pocket screws are easy. But gluing the face frame to the case would require some clamps. Or my dad could Norm it with some brads.

As for labeling and bagging the pieces, where is the fun with that? No assembly project is complete without pulling your hair out over incomprehensible instructions and mixing up 1" and 1 1/4" screws :gar-La;
 

bobby g

Bob
Corporate Member
Bas,

I like the idea of the bookcase with door(s) design. Given the relatively narrow width, I'd make it frameless and incorporate a single door hinged on the left. A strip of wood could easily be attached to the wall on the right side to provide the look of a side when the door is closed. Assuming that the walls are drywall, remember that the inside corner in the back will not be a clean 90 degree detail and you'll want allow for that in the design.

My $.02,

bobby g
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top