Design and cut list help

[ScottM]

While I have done cabinet work and furniture over the years, they are not my strong suite, so I am looking for advise from this NCWW brain trust. My daughter in Clayton has asked me to make her built-ins one both sides of her fireplace. So, this is the basic design.

It will be two separate units, one for each side. The units are 30" high and 20" deep. I am planning on making face frame cabinets using 3/4 plywood for the shell and soft maple for the face frames. The face frames will be made with glued and pocket screws. The backs of the cabinets will be open except for the middle section. I will be drilling holes for shelf pins. At this point I do not know how many shelves I would need. Everything will be painted white except for the glued up and stained hardwood top which will probably be made of soft maple. I will probably go with premade doors unless you all can give me some better ideas. I have included my cut list drawing for the plywood. Am I doing this right? Anything I am missing or forgetting.

 

[Mike Davis]

Doesn't look right to me. Center section sides shouldn't go to floor if bottom goes all the way across. Actually looks like all the sides should stop at bottom and bottom skirt is separate. Is bottom extended beyond the front?

 

[ScottM]

Doesn't look right to me. Center section sides shouldn't go to floor if bottom goes all the way across. Actually looks like all the sides should stop at bottom and bottom skirt is separate. Is bottom extended beyond the front?

Thanks Mike. The bottom does not extend beyond the front. The middle section will have sides so I would need to adjust their height and cut a dado in the bottoms for the middle section sides to sit in. Or I can build each unit as three separate boxes tied together with one face frame.

 

[JNCarr]

Scott - If I understand you this is what youre trying to do. Sorry for the rushed drawing...
The bottom has to either be made into 3 pieces or the center two sides have to terminate on the top ot the bottom and support base added to under side of unit. I would do the latter to keep a continuous floor. I'd also add stringers to the back. Dont forget youll need a piece for the toe kicks.

 

[Dave Richards]

Probably late to the party but would an actual virtual 3D model help?

 

[ScottM]

Probably late to the party but would an actual virtual 3D model help?

Dave I would appreciate any and all help.

 

[ScottM]

Scott - If I understand you this is what youre trying to do. Sorry for the rushed drawing...
The bottom has to either be made into 3 pieces or the center two sides have to terminate on the top ot the bottom and support base added to under side of unit. I would do the latter to keep a continuous floor. I'd also add stringers to the back. Dont forget youll need a piece for the toe kicks.

Yes you understand correctly. Thanks.

 

[Wiley's Woodworks]

Please let us know where you find the barn door roller hardware.

 

[CharlieGator]

Please let us know where you find the barn door roller hardware.

I found them at Lowe's. Used them for a 4 panel glass door

 

[Wiley's Woodworks]

I found them at Lowe's. Used them for a 4 panel glass door

Yes--It's easy enough to find the roller hardware for full size doors, but I'm ISO the smaller sets for cabinets like Scott pictures in this thread starter.

 

[ScottM]

Please let us know where you find the barn door roller hardware.

Amazon. Search on

Mini Cabinet Bypass Sliding Barn Door Hardware Track Kit​