Deck plans....

[pslamp32]

After installing a 350 linear foot fence in my yard I'm feeling ambitious! I saved $3000 doing the fence myself and spent a day and a half installing it. (I almost fainted when I was quoted $4500 for a rustic split rail fence, but that's a whole other story.) Since the fence job went so well, I thought I'd consider building my own deck as well. I've been told that a deck I'm looking for will probably cost about $5000. I'm looking for a simple but sturdy deck off the side of my house about 200 sf. Nothing fancy and only about 2-3 feet elevated I estimate. I was thinking I could save half the cost by doing it myself. My questions are, where can I buy good deck plans online, and do I need to contact an inspector to do a job like this? Also, if anyone has any other advice (pros/cons, etc.) I'm all ears! :-D Thanks!:icon_thum

 

[pslamp32]

After doing some research I'm considering building a floating deck system using Dek-Blocks, these are readily available at Lowe's etc. http://deckplans.com/howitworks.html . Has anyone here used this system? Any info appreciated! Oh here's a picture if your interested...

Of course mine would be a simple rectangular deck but you get the idea...;-)

 

[DaveO]

You should have the deck inspected and pull a permit for the construction. I would take one of the plans provided to your local inspections office and make sure that the Dek-bloc systems will meet the code requirements.
I contract with a lot of deck builders, I have never seen them use a system like that. Old fashion in-ground concrete footers is what they use. That may be a Raleigh area thing. We don't have as deep of a frost-line as y'all in the mountains and it might be easier to dig the footer depth needed.
84 Lumber, Builders Source and lumber yards like that often have deck plans available in a package that comes with all the lumber and fasteners needed delivered right to your door.
http://www.84lumber.com/Projects/decks.asp?type=

HTH, Dave

 

[dave "dhi"]

i typically charge my customers about 13.50 to 14 dollars a sqft. includes permit(which u will need if u chose to) material and labor!so u received high quote! i personally would NEVER use them cement blocks u can buy at lowes, nor would i purchase Lowes/Home depot treated lumber. if possible, find green treated lumber, dont use the white treated lumber. its junk and you will be replaceing it with in a month. had it delivered for floor joist on screen porch im adding to my house im building and 3 weeks after the 2-10 14' joist where installed, they dipped at least 3/4 inch and shrunk 1/4 inch off band:BangHead:. noticed when i went to install decking. stock delivered all new 2-10's for FREE :eusa_dancsince they went back to the green lumber because of so many complants! which is nice cause now i have dbl 2-10 joist! hope this helps and any more questions just pm me.. dave peace out!

 

[jeff...]

Thinking all the 4x4 45 degree bracing required to hold that floating deck in place would be way more expensive than sinking ground contact coated 4x4 in cement. Bags of cement is cheap, lumber is not - look at all those 4x4's. You need 3 for every post including the post 8-O. It also looks like they are on 4' centers - not a bad thing just more expensive is all.

 

[pslamp32]

Thinking all the 4x4 45 degree bracing required to hold that floating deck in place would be way more expensive than sinking ground contact coated 4x4 in cement. Bags of cement is cheap, lumber is not - look at all those 4x4's. You need 3 for every post including the post 8-O. It also looks like they are on 4' centers - not a bad thing just more expensive is all.

Actually they only advise the extra bracing if the deck is elevated above 30". The cost for materials of my 200sf deck was ~$750. Does that seem like alot? I have no clue. Thanks.

 

[Bryan S]

Peter $750 doesn't sound high to me especially considering I spent close to that in materials building a 16 x 12 deck about 15 years ago. I tend to agree with Jeff on the cost with all the extra bracing and post involved, but it does look good and of sound design.

As bad as I hate to say this you pull a permit and inspection.

 

[DaveD]

For me, decks are fairly easy to build. After building my 1st one(1000+ sq ft) 30 years ago for myself I had all kinds of friends/co-workers looking for my 'expertise'. If you are handy with tools and understand square/level/plumb then you should have little to no problem doing your own. I helped do one years ago that was at least 12' in the air. That was a challenge to get started. Yours is close to the ground though.

Easy to see on new houses so you can form your own opinion on various building techniques/designs. Typically fairly straight forward so the average person can tackle one. Can probably save half the cost by doing it yourself.

Contact Ashville's building dept and find out what code you need to follow. Then get a copy of that code and become very familiar with the deck section. Maybe your local library has it. Some jurisdictions even have a deck only code that they give away for free.

Things you need to consider:
Physically connecting it to the house or building it standalone right next to the house? There are pro's and con's to doing it either way.

What are you going to make it out of? Treated lumber framing with composite decking? or treated lumber all the way? Or some other mix?

Concrete footers? brick piers? posts concreted into the ground? etc?

If you are going to use anything like joist hangers then they have to be rated for the particular kind of treated lumber. Typically hot dip galvanized or stainless steel. Same for nails and deck fasteners.

Remember codes are 'minimums' so don't skimp on the framing and have a springy deck when finished.

Want to preserve the view? Consider cable railings. That's a whole nother area of discovery on how to build one.

Your local borgs have a program where they can design you a deck and get the bill of material lsited out for you. I believe they run them for free for you. However I wouldn't take their design and run with it. Usually they are again designed to 'minimum' code requirements.

Personally I think tract builders build crap decks. I have one on my CENTEX house that is bare bones minimum with questionable quality. Go look at decks on expensive houses too to see the difference in construction, fit and finish.

 

[McRabbet]

Peter,

I've built several decks, both with and without permits (I suspect you will need a permit where you live), and I agree with several of the comments above -- NC building code for decks (See Appendix M) requires certain characteristics for Deck Footers and the small footprint of the Dek-bloc system doesn't look like it is allowed. I've always used 12" holes dug 42" deep for 4" x 4" posts under 6' high or for 6" x 6" posts over 6'. Check out my Gallery Album "Deck Projects" for some examples. For design, Lowes has a protty good interactive design tool you can use to design your own deck and it creates a Bill of Materials, too. Hope this helps.

 

[Travis Porter]

IIRC both Home Depot and Lowes will draw the plans for you with a materials list. You don't necessarily have to buy the wood there, but it will give you a plan you can use to get a permit by. JMTCW

 

[pslamp32]

Thanks all! Anybody know the best way to dig down to 42 inches? Going down to 24 was difficult enough for the fence posts! Also what diameter does the deck whole need to be? Thanks!

 

[Travis Porter]

Renting an auger is the way to go to dig the holes IMO. I would definitely want two strong bodies to handle it as it is not a one person job. As for the dimensions, 200 sq ft 10 x 20 would work although I personally would want it to come out from the house at least 12 feet.

 

[dave "dhi"]

i dont know codes were u live but in wake county needs to be 12" deep and from top to botttom (minimal) 16" by 16" square . but nc has now made new code in deck footings, inspectors dont check them anymore prior to pouring unless roof is involved!:icon_thum

auger be nice but thats just a 6'' circle!

 

[Travis Porter]

I have rented a 12" one before. Worked my butt off, but it was better than digging by hand.

 

[McRabbet]

Peter, you can rent an auger that will do the job, but you need to rent a two-man auger, not a one-man. I've used both and lets put it this way: Life is too short to try to dig a 12" hole to 3-1/2' by yourself. The cost is reasonable and 2 guys can dig a dozen holes in less than 2 hours, even with rest. IIRC, I rented one for 1/2 day for about $35.

 

[Gofor]

As for plans, I drew my own when I put a 12 x 16 extension on mine. A couple of thoughts:
I bought my lumber from a local builder's supply and it was less expensive (by about 30%) and better quality than Lowes.
12' lumber is much cheaper than 16' per bf, so if you can go with 12' dimension for deck board lengths, even if the total run is longer, it will be more economical. Also, price the boards. I went with 2 x 10 skirts with 2 x 8 joists. The 2 x 8s were cheaper than 2 x 6's (I think because the demand for 2 x 6's was higher with all the construction that was going on last year).
If it is only 30" high, you probably do not require a railing. The railing is as expensive as the rest of the deck structure. One option you may consider is to step down the levels, even on one or two sides, to reduce cost. If you do build a rail, the top has to be at least 36" from the deck, and if you use ballisters, they have to be less than 4" spacing between them (where you cannot put a 4"d sphere between them. This is to prevent small children from sticking their heads though the opening.)
Ledger boards for the cross joists are cheaper than the hanger brackets.
I would advise screws as opposed to nails. They hold better, and make it easier to replace/repair a few boards if needed.

JMTCW
Go

 

[scsmith42]

If you really want to dig your holes the easy way, rent a hydraulic auger and a skid steer. It doesn't get any easier than that.

Scott

 

[jeff...]

If you really want to dig your holes the easy way, rent a hydraulic auger and a skid steer. It doesn't get any easier than that.

Scott

Yeah it does - dynamite is more fun :-D

 

[Ray Martin]

I've built a load of decks in NC... 42" deep holes sounds REALLY deep. I generally make a hole 18" deep and put a solid concrete block at the bottom for the post to sit on. I would not use the concrete piers that sit on grade.

First, let me establish my stance of plausible deniability... The following comes from the IRBC... and that sucker can be accepted or rejected or modified by the governing agency (state, city, etc).

Do draw up some plans and get a permit. Those guys will help keep you from doing something that isn't safe.

Someone mentioned the 4" rule for the balustrades; that goes for the distance between the bottom of the balustrade and the deck surface as well as between the balusters. On the stairs, the triangle formed by the bottom of the balustrade, the tread and the riser, must be small enough to prevent a 6" sphere from passing through.

Stairs don't need a railing on both sides it the stairs are against a wall. Stairs don't need a railing if there are only one or two risers. Railings are not required if the deck surface is less than 30" above grade. Railing for stairs must be between 32" and 38" above the tread measured vertically from the tread nosing.

There's a whole bunch of stuff to know about building the stairs themselves.... and I've made this note too long as it is. More if you want it.

Ray