deal on 8" jointer from grizzly new unfortunately it will not work for me

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Chuck N

Chuck
Corporate Member
Re: Very few blemished jointers left

All I can tell you is the rep told me paint is flaking off the cast iron because the cast iron was not properly cleaned of oil before painting at the factory. The rep I spoke to said I'd probably have to repaint all of the cast iron as he suspected all of the paint would ultimately flake off. Based on what he said I'm assuming I'd need to sand the paint off when the machine arrive and then clean (degrease), prime, and paint before assembly.
 
Re: Very few blemished jointers left

so based upon what you are told the blemish would not be on the base cabinet it would just be on the sides of the jointer bed..... repaimtimg the joimter bed side would not be to bad I guess.... havimg to redo the cabinet would definitely hurt resale value..... even though I would plan on keeping it for a long time I try not to by anything that I cannot get my money back out of that is why 90% of tool purchases have been used plus the fact that I am poor
 

Chuck N

Chuck
Corporate Member
Re: Very few blemished jointers left

That is my understanding from talking to the rep. It is possible the repainting would hurt resale value depending on how long you keep it. Obviously the discount Grizzly is offering is intended to compensate for the perceived loss of value due to the bad paint. Unfortunately you won't know until it arrives and you can see for yourself. What concerns me is that if the "blemish" was minor they would show a picture on the website or offer to email a picture of the blemish so the customer can assess the situation. I'm guessing the absence of a picture indicates the blemish is severe.
 
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sorry I wemt to reply with quote and somehow hit edit post with my phone sorry I think all you typed is back correctly. ... sorry



"I'm guessing the absence of a picture indicates the blemish is severe."



yea and now that is why I have not said yes yet


I did try to see if I could buy another item they ship and sell on amazon and then switch the item for this item and apply the credit so I could use gift card money I have at amazon to help pay for it.... but what seems simple they would not do it.... if they would have I would have said yes and took my chances
 

Chuck N

Chuck
Corporate Member
I'm still thinking about it. The price is very attractive for a new 8" with warranty. However, I'd really prefer to have the G0490.
 
I'm still thinking about it. The price is very attractive for a new 8" with warranty. However, I'd really prefer to have the G0490.

well if that is the case get it from amazon with free shipping for $975 thats better then the price with the 10% off at amazon.....performance wise how much.better do you think is is exect for little longer bed and beds that stay aligned better with each other


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E34CMK/
 

Chuck N

Chuck
Corporate Member
I know what you mean. Grizzly might resist taking it back if you had a problem with a blemished unit.

If you have a way to transport it from Tryon, NC here's a Delta J-20 8" jointer that appears to be lightly used for $900.

http://greenville.craigslist.org/tls/3860487196.html

Of course you'd still have to deal with the 220 volt issue.

You'd still have the 220 volt issue.
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
I'm still thinking about it. The price is very attractive for a new 8" with warranty. However, I'd really prefer to have the G0490.

I have the 656 with the spiral cutterhead. Have had no alignment problems with it once I got it set up correctly in the first place. I'm very happy with the performance of the machine. The dovetail beds seem just fine as far as adjustability and stability. The parallelogram beds on the 490 were not worth the additional cost to me. Of course now the 490 is the same price as the 656 with spiral - go figure.

Personally I wouldn't worry much about cosmetic defects but that is me and others may feel differently.
 

novice99

New User
Mike
I couldn't resist! I have been limping along with my underpowered 6" delta for too many years. I think I can handle bad/peeling paint. I will update/post pics when it arrives.
 
I couldn't resist! I have been limping along with my underpowered 6" delta for too many years. I think I can handle bad/peeling paint. I will update/post pics when it arrives.

CONGRATS...... I still have on in my shopping carts and been doing research all day and searching the east coast for other used deals.... made offers to people and heard nothing back.... found the motor woodtek uses will cost me $200 to down grade the motor for 110v and even with the extra motor purchase still cheaper than a new one......

I wish deal and extra holiday code would last 30 days so I would have more time to decide

we will see if they are still in stock for sale when I wake up in the morning
 

chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
The above is an oft-repeated myth.

In fact, 220/240V machines are no more or less efficient than their 120V brethren. Each will consume the same number of watts (Watts=Volts x Amps x PowerFactor). A 120V machine will simply draw twice as many amps while running at 1/2 the voltage, thus keeping the equation perfectly balanced (save for a miniscule fraction of a percent in transmission losses/voltage drop within your power cord). In the same way that "240Vx10A=2400W", so does "120Vx20A=2400W", halving one multiplicand (Voltage) while doubling the other (Amps) maintains the equation's balance.

There are good reasons to opt for 220/240V equipment, but efficiency is not one of them.[/QUOTE


Ethan,
The part you're leaving out of your equation is the efficiency gain by using MUCH more massive cutterheads etc on the larger 220v machines. I can remove far more material with one pass than with a 110v toy.
 

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
Re: Very few blemished jointers left

so I am still torn what to do since I do not know how it will perform after I put a 1.5hp motor in it but I figure it would be the same as the 8" woodtek that would cost $1029.... also both grizzle and byrd has a spiral head for it if a upgrade was needed since the spiral head needs less hp to do the job

I would not be too worried about replacing the OEM motor with a solid 1.5 or 1.75HP (120V) motor. Many 8" Jointers (including my Jet JJ-8CS) typically ship with a 2HP (220/240V) motor which is more than adequate to hog off quite a lot of material without bogging down.

Even if you did find it a little underpowered (which I'd expect to be unlikely) you can either enlarge the motor's pulley to step up its torque (while slowing the feed rate slightly) or simply feed your boards a bit more slowly. A slower feed rate through a jointer creates a smoother surface any how (less scalloping than when feeding quickly) so there is no real downside other than adding a few extra seconds to a job.

Just make sure that your replacement motor has the same shaft diameter and the same size keyed slot as your existing motor if you wish to reuse the existing pulley. Ideally the shaft should be very close in length to and the motor's mounting frame the same, though you can often work around these to some extent if need be (e.g. by drilling new mounting holes or using an intermediate mounting plate as an adapter). Your 1.5 to 1.75HP motor should be rated at 15-16A at 120V (versus 20-22A for a 2HP motor at 120V).

Spiral cutterheads, if you plan to upgrade, do, however, slightly increase the demands on the motor, but even there you would probably make out just fine at 1.5 to 1.75HP unless your are planning to hog off 3/8+" in a single pass on some hardwood.
 

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
Ethan,
The part you're leaving out of your equation is the efficiency gain by using MUCH more massive cutterheads etc on the larger 220v machines. I can remove far more material with one pass than with a 110v toy.

I suppose if the argument is shop time alone and not electrical in nature then an argument can be made for greater efficiency to an extent.

In reality, what you are really referring to is a matter of Horse Power rating rather than any efficiency afforded by one's choice in voltage. A 2HP motor at 120V will power just as large and massive a cutterhead as a 2HP motor at 240V.... and while a 120V 1HP motor will probably have a smaller cutterhead and work more slowly if pushed to the max, a larger 240V 2HP motor, with its larger cutterhead, is now drawing twice as much power so we're really back to only being able to argue efficiency in shop time alone.

Of course, by that logic one could argue that two 120V contractor tablesaws are more efficient than one 240V 3HP cabinet tablesaw (i.e. less setup time when switching tasks).

My point being that we need to be careful about confusing members. There are many out there who genuinely believe that a 240V motor is going to halve their electric bills because it draws only half the amperage -- you will even find this claim in some magazine articles out there. This misconception causes some to waste a lot of good money trying to make everything 240V (some even going so far as to suggest European 240V portable power tools) for that perceived savings on their monthly electric bill -- a savings that never materializes. Not a good myth to perpetuate on technicalities.

A motor's power draw (wattage) is directly proportional the the work (in this case, wattage multiplied by time) the operator demands of it, so a slower tool does not necessarily consume any more or less power than a faster tool for a given job -- the faster tool simply draws more wattage for the same unit of time as the work done remains unchanged.
 
OOPS............ I just gave grizzly all my money...... now if UPS freight does not damage it and when I get it the blemish does not turm out to be they forgot to paint it
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
You might be better off if they forgot to paint. Then you wouldn't have to strip the paint off.

hopefully it won't be too bad and you can live with it. Congrats on the new jointer!

if you need help wiring the 220 I'm sure someone will step up.
 

Chuck N

Chuck
Corporate Member
Congratulations on the new jointer and best of luck with it. Post a picture when you get it!
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
Congrats - hope it works out well.

When it arrives it will be covered in cosmolene/grease. It will take some time and elbow grease to remove it all. I found that PG-2000 (similar to WD-40 only less gummy) works well at removing it. Some use kerosene, just be careful with all the resultant oily rags - dispose of properly to avoid a fire later. I use those disposable paper rags (and lots of them) from Sam's or the borgs - Box'o'Rags or some such. Grizzly seems to overdo the rust protection with their machines as anyone who's ever received a new one will tell you. They dab it everywhere.

Take your time cleaning it and setting it up and you will enjoy the machine for a long time to come. Here's hoping the cosmetic damage is very cosmetic.
 
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