Cypress for exterior house trim?

[Charlottend]

We're finishing house plans for a home in Charlotte and I'm trying to decide if Cypress is the right wood for our purpose. We'll be using it as exposed decorative headers over windows/doors, fascia, and also ~10"x10" columns to support a porch.

I'm leaning towards cypress, but I'm also considering cedar and hardiplank (for the fascia/headers). Cypress seems to be cheaper than cedar (but after looking closer, I might be wrong), and more authentic than hardiplank.

I know cypress is considered rot resistant, but I can't find anything that says how long I can expect it to last. Am I setting myself up for a maintenance headache, or worse, a replacement 10-20 years down the road? Does anyone have experience with it, or a link to hard numbers on exactly how durable we can expect it to be?

 

[CrealBilly]

We're finishing house plans for a home in Charlotte and I'm trying to decide if Cypress is the right wood for our purpose. We'll be using it as exposed decorative headers over windows/doors, fascia, and also ~10"x10" columns to support a porch.

I'm leaning towards cypress, but I'm also considering cedar and hardiplank (for the fascia/headers). Cypress seems to be cheaper than cedar, and more authentic than hardiplank.

I know cypress is considered rot resistant, but I can't find anything that says how long I can expect it to last. Am I setting myself up for a maintenance headache, or worse, a replacement 10-20 years down the road? Does anyone have experience with it, or a link to hard numbers on exactly how durable we can expect it to be?

The heartwood of old growth cypress is where you will see the most rot resistance over the long haul. Although this is true for most species labeled "decay resistant". A common misunderstanding about new growth trees vs old growth. Also you will see far less decay resistance in sapwood as you would from heartwood - generally speaking of course and based on the species.

http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/softwoods/cypress/

I think the heartwood of cedar either Western of Eastern may be worth considering, eastern being preferred due to its insect resistance. It's more abundant, than old growth cypress. If you do choose cedar make sure you grind or blunt the sharp tips of your nails or else you'll split it without even trying. And the old saying never whack that nail the last time really stands true with cedar

http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/softwoods/aromatic-red-cedar/

http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/softwoods/western-red-cedar/

http://thecraftsmanblog.com/choosing-rot-resistant-wood/

 

[ehpoole]

If it helps in your decision, all the barns that we built in my childhood were enclosed with unfinished roughcut cypress board and batten and all are in very good shape 30 years later with no maintenance over those years despite years of N. Florida sun and rain. Unfinished it will take on a grayish color but otherwise holds up very well to the elements.

 

[Jeff]

We'll be using it as exposed decorative headers over windows/doors, fascia, and also ~10"x10" columns to support a porch.

Wood vs Hardiplank?

Either one will likely be painted. I'd go with textured Hardiplank for low maintenance and durability. If you prefer wood, that's okay but it'll require routine maintenance.

 

[Charlottend]

Wood vs Hardiplank?

Either one will likely be painted. I'd go with textured Hardiplank for low maintenance and durability. If you prefer wood, that's okay but it'll require routine maintenance.

They'll be natural color, perhaps with a light stain, but definitely not painted. I'm not leaning more towards WRC as it seems to be more available, especially in the larger post sizes, not to mention apparently more durable.

Does anyone have a good source for old growth cypress? I know there are some sinker operations in the southeast, but I imagine cost gets pretty high for those.

 

[danmart77]

Jeff
I have a bunch of Hardie and nichiha clapboard experience these past few years. In my view, the textured stuff gets dirty much faster than the smooth clapboards. On the installs I don't use pre painted and put it up primed. Caulk and paint after nailing.

Some homeowners prefer the look of the textured/wood look. Here in Durham and Raleigh the textured surface holds that black dust where the smooth with a good paint job just runs off. I'm in the low maintenance preference camp these days.

The house here had T-111 siding that was in good shape so the clapboards were nailed to the 5/8 ply. Lots of scaffolding and ladders - not to mention a crew. Those planks weigh a ton. The bottom gable is 38' up.

Its done

​

primed and up
​

painted and ready
for gutter install on the front

​

Tried to do something similar to the first project. Once the color was decided.. the house is close to the shop color. Done.
​

 

[Jeff]

Dan,

Were you replying to me or to the OP (Brian)?

 

[danmart77]

Either one will likely be painted. I'd go with textured Hardiplank for low maintenance and durability. If you prefer wood, that's okay but it'll require routine maintenance.


Sorry for the confusion Jeff I was addressing textured siding.


Dan

 

[CrealBilly]

Either one will likely be painted. I'd go with textured Hardiplank for low maintenance and durability. If you prefer wood, that's okay but it'll require routine maintenance.


Sorry for the confusion Jeff I was addressing textured siding.


Dan

How much is handiplank?

 

[Jeff]

Here's a ball park guess. Maybe Dan has a much better number (Durham, NC area).

http://www.homeadvisor.com/article.show.Pros-Cons-and-Costs-Hardie-Board-Siding.15726.html

http://www.remodelingexpense.com/costs/cost-of-hardiplank-siding/

 

[danmart77]

If you are just wondering about siding cost the answer is check multiple sources in your area. There is no standard in the industry. You get industry standards if you go to a company with a secretary and music in the background. What does that mean?

The salesman comes to the house, he measures the surface and DOES NOT REDUCE for windows doors or chimneys. He says its where they make up the waste. Run from this guy. I have worked jobs for guys like this. After the sale, you will never see him again.

Find out who the install crew working for these companies are. For an estimate of 14K from Joe sales, you can get it done by the same crew for 5k less. I did.

Beware of "Siding Companies" in your area. On Monday they do vinyl, Tuesday cement siding on and on. The guys doing the work get chicken feed and the company cleans house.

Lastly, don't fall for the James Hardie is the only way to go. Compare Hardie and Nichiha. Its cement siding and they aren't a much different. Nichiha is a little more brittle as a rule but Hardie is NOT as smooth when it comes to paint and finish. Look around the price variation is just insane.

After banging up more than 10K feet of this stuff, I know you can find a crew who does it and get a fine job. Ask to see their last 2 jobs to verify.

Dan

 

[mayszs]

I happen to have a very large (36" diameter at the 30' mark) down on my property.
My plan is to pull it out of the woods in 14'-16' lengths and mill it.