Cutting Sheet goods

[procraft]

I got a deal on some 5X9 melemine panels that I will be building several kitchenetts for a hotel with, As usual I can't decide on the best method for cutting the panels. :BangHead: My question is, how do most small shop operators cut large panels? Seems I try a different method each time I build. I cannot seem to get the accuracy I want.

 

[michaelgarner]

build a panel saw bro, I am in the process, I can hook you up with the plans for a wall mounted one. Just PM me your address. all I ask is to kick back the shipping. Be blessed bro.

 

[procraft]

Thanks Micheal, I am really enjoying the Lathe I got from you by the way,
I guess I am asking the best rail and guide system people use, I don't really need or have the room for a panel saw, plus I do alot of work on location, Be Blessed sir.

 

[DaveO]

I cut my sheet goods on a piece of foam insulation on the floor. I cut about a 1/4" over size with a cic. saw and then trim everything flat/straight on the TS. I can cut full 4 x 8 sheets on my TS, but I find that to be easier. Make sure to score the Melamine to prevent any chipping DAMHIKT :BangHead: :BangHead:
Dave

 

[Bernhard]

I got a deal on some 5X9 melemine panels .....

I use a sliding table saw with a scoring blade. A friend of mine uses a festool plungecut saw with a rail with excellent results.
BUT what I really like to know: Where did you get the melamine sheets?
Bernhard

 

[junquecol]

It is hard to beat a homemade one using 1/4 hardboard and a 1/2X3 piece of ply for a guide. A real tip is to double stick tape a piece of hardboard to base plate that hangs off guide. This will help prevent chip out. The best saw I have ever found is a B&D Super Sawcat. It is the same saw as Dewalt's top of line saw. The motor body is adjustable to make blade parrallel to edge of base.

 

[procraft]

There is a place in Angier, Surrells salvage, He has several colors and some with woodgrain printed on it, 5X9 for 17.00 ea
I also bought some MDF thats 1 1/2" thick for 12.00 ea.

 

[Bernhard]

There is a place in Angier, Surrells salvage, He has several colors and some with woodgrain printed on it, 5X9 for 17.00 ea
I also bought some MDF thats 1 1/2" thick for 12.00 ea.

Thank you! I'll guess I need to make aroad trip to Angier!

Bernhard

 

[DaveO]

I also bought some MDF thats 1 1/2" thick for 12.00 ea.

Dang how much did that weigh 8-O 8-O
Nice gloat BTW

Dave

 

[Steve D]

Accuracy on sheet goods with a circular saw is extremely difficult without something like the festool. Cutting oversize and moving to the TS has worked best for me. You will want a really good blade to avoid chipout on melamine and a zero clearance insert. I was able to cut all of the stuff I used recently with no chipout without scoring. That was with a 80 tooth high ATB blade and it did a beautiful job.

 

[Travis Porter]

I fight with them on the tablesaw, but that is a PITA. Sometimes I rough cut with home made cutting guides, but as others have noted you need a good saw. The Festool is supposed to be the cream of the crop, but it is expensive. I have heard good feedback on Eurekazone, but haven't used it.

 

[McRabbet]

Generally, I cut sheet stock on my lumber rack -- outside face of which leans back about 5 degrees and sheet sits 6" off floor. I clamp on my 50" Tru-Grip straightedge or my 8' long Johnson straight edge to guide my skilsaw with a thin kerf Freud blade in it. I usually tape both faces on cut line to avoid tearout. Works for me -- then I finish cut on my Grizzly wide-body table saw (G1023SLX).

Rob

 

[charlie s]

I back the truck up to my sawhorses, slide the sheet off onto them and get out the Festool saw with guide. Dead accurate, no splintering, fast and very easy to use, not to mention safer than wrestling a 4 x 8 sheet onto the table saw by yourself. Makes working with plywood a breeze. Now if I could just come up with the justification to buy their sander....

 

[DavidF]

9 times out of 10 I get the supplier; HD, lowes, etc to down size it for me first then I deal with it on the TS

 

[MarkW]

I also place a sheet of foam insulation on my table and set my circular saw to 1/4" deeper than the material I'm cutting. The foam does act as a backer board in my experience but for fine cuts you want a really good blade.
I do use a product call ACCU-Rip. http://www.accurip.com/. Once I got this set-up I do not even bother to take the cuts to the table saw. Its dead on. The only problem is its only 24 measured inches. Over that I cut it close and use the table-saw.

 

[clowman]

I'm with David here, I try to have them cut it at least once for me.

Otherwise, I just put up the super long outfeed table on the back of the saw, and slowly, carefully run it through. Without a nice long outfeed table, I would use a circular saw to rough it out.

 

[procraft]

About 150lbs each, went to get by myself, Another funniest home video grand prize winner lost.

 

[DaveO]

One of the funniest things, that my wife often reminds me of, is me trying to unload 10 sheets of 3/4 MDF, right after a summer down pour started, as fast as possible. There is no way to do it quickly and gracefully. IIRC correctly a 3/4" sheet weighs around 80#, I can't imagine handling twice that much...you're more a man than me :eusa_clap

Dave

 

[Canuck]

I too have Lowes or BORG slice lengthwise or just in half; depending on the project. That, primarily because the little S10 PU only has a 6' bed! They are usually pretty good about it. (I think that they have a sign posted that they charge per cut (over 2 cuts) on their panel saw; but have never had to pay.

Failing that. I clamp my homemade edge guide to the piece and run my Skilsaw a little oversize then move to the TS.

I think that I just repeated about everyone else's responses! Oh well!!!

Wayne

 

[Mark Fogleman]

Another Festool TS55EQ plunge saw user here. Smooth cuts, no burns, no splinters/chip outs, blade is buried in the wood, easier to move a 5lb. saw than an 80lb piece of wood (couldn't imagine a 150lb sheet!) and my wife can park her car in the garage when I'm through...oh...it's a purty green color too!

Mark