Cutting bowl blanks from green wood

JGregJ

Greg
User
Seeking advice on best way to cut bowl blanks from green wood.

I had a small maple tree cut and started cutting some of the pieces into bowl blanks on my bandsaw. I've used similar technique before, but this time ran into unexpected problem. About 1/2 way through the cut, the kerf pinced the blade and sawing came to screeching halt - literally as the belts started slipping. I was eventually able to extract the blade w/o damaging it, but left me worried that my technique is wrong.

The saw is setup with a 1/2 in, 4 TPI blade. My technique is to use a sled to square up and cut the log into a appropriately sized cylinder. The length of the cut approx equal to the diameter of the log.
BowlBank1.JPG

Then set the cylinder upright and saw down the middle - making 2 blanks:
BowlBank2.JPG

The blade bound on this piece after I got a little less than 1/2 through the cut. I'd successfully cut 8 other blanks before running into this problem.

1) Is this a reasonable way to cut bowl blanks from green wood?
2) Is there anyway to avoid the blade binding.
 

bowman

Board of Directors, Webmaster
Neal
Staff member
Corporate Member
After the wood gets safely past the blade, pull wood back a little, then turn off saw. put a wedge into the kerf and continue your cut
 

Roy G

Roy
Senior User
I have an electric chain saw that does a good job sawing blanks from logs. No reasonable log is too big to split into blanks and no worries about blade binding in cut.

Roy G
 

blackhawk

Brad
Corporate Member
Same as Roy here, I always use a chainsaw to split logs in half for bowl blanks. I do use a bandsaw to round them up before I put them on the lathe.
 

Dee2

Board of Directors, Vice President
Gene
Staff member
Corporate Member
I occasionally split logs on the bandsaw. I do not stand them on end to split however. And, will use a Carter jig to hold them, however if they are stable when laying on a side, I'll push them through by hand. My limited experience is that you need a low TPI blade for moving the dust out of the kerf. Mostly, I split with a Husqvarna.
 

gritz

New User
Robert
Neal has good advice. Been there, done that. I finally went to a 1/2"carbide three tooth blade for rounding blanks. Now, same as Roy, I use both a Stihl battery (more expensive but more flexibility,) and electric (cheaper,) chainsaw for longitudinal cuts.
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
You really need to remove the pith which can be anywhere from one inch to five or more depending on the size of the trunk.

I always keep a few wedges laying near my bandsaw, any wood can have internal stress which can open up or close the kerf.
 

blackhawk

Brad
Corporate Member
Also, a chain specifically for ripping will make things go a lot faster with the chainsaw when making longitudinal cuts. I use an Oregon brand ripping chain and I really like it. Don't stand your log up when ripping it in half with the chainsaw. You want to lay it on its side and do the rip cut through the bark cutting with the grain.
 

JGregJ

Greg
User
Thanks everyone for the recommendations. I do have small electric chainsaw so i‘ll give that a try. I had assumed the using the bandsaw and standing on end was more stable and perhaps safer approach, but had never had blade bind like that before.
 

Oka

Casey
Corporate Member
When you want to cut a log, best with a chain saw. Also, unless you are adept at cutting and making it roll 1/4 turn (which is tricky) with the chain saw, it is best to block it up, either by a bucking stand or a piece of wood under it.
If the log is bigger you can use a Cant-Hook or Peavy to move it. BE advised, if you use a chain saw Never let it hit dirt, or rock that will ruin the sharpness and can destroy the chain blade.
 

JGregJ

Greg
User
Wow Bob that is a huge chunk of tree! Thanks for posting the pics.
Thanks Oka, yes my skills with chainsaw are limited, so expect I’ll need to block it up with wood under it to avoid sawing into the ground.
 
Last edited:

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