Curved apron

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
I can think of several ways to make a round table apron but was wondering which is what I should try first.
It is for a side table, about 36 inches in diameter. She would like a small drawer on one side. I was thinking glue-lam would be the most stable.
 

llucas

luke
Senior User
I am getting ready to do the same thing so I will be interested in suggestions as well.
I have an old round pedestal table with a solid ring under the top with a complete circle of saw kerfs inside it to permit bending. The ring had to be repaired on 2 occasions.
 

Michael Mathews

Michael
Corporate Member
kerf bending is one way. Or you could use multiple thin laminates of hard wood glued up onto a form to make the curve. With the 36" diameter, I would just take a guess that maybe 1/16" think laminates would be thin enough. Thinner would be better for a nice smooth curve.
 

Bill Clemmons

Bill
Corporate Member
The only time I made a round table I used thin laminates cut from the same board and glued around a form. Remember to allow for a small amount of spring back when you take it out of the form.
 

David Justice

David
Corporate Member
I just did this, made a 38" round apron for a table. I made a large form out MDF for half of the circle. I used thin strips glued up in the form, then I joined the two halves using floating tenons. Finally, I put one long veneer over the whole thing to cover the joints. It came out really well with only one, very well hidden seam.
 

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JNCarr

Joe
Corporate Member
I've done kerf bending, glue-lam and bendable plywood (veneered) with equal success. Glue-lam for a 4-6" apron is a lot of resawing. The easiest was bendable plywood - I did a 24" diameter full circle with no trouble, so 36" diameter should be a breeze. Just back it with a ring at top and bottom for extra strength. I dont have a piece large enough, or I'd give it to you...
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
Bent laminations. I’ve also done it using the blocking method and cover with veneer.
 

gritz

New User
Robert
Thin strips. My SIL just made some very creative picture frames for his brides upcoming art exhibit using thin strips. The frames extend in various directions...up, down, arcing out, etc...making empty space part of the art.
 

JNCarr

Joe
Corporate Member
I can think of several ways to make a round table apron but was wondering which is what I should try first.
It is for a side table, about 36 inches in diameter. She would like a small drawer on one side. I was thinking glue-lam would be the most stable.
Scott - turns out I need to do a quarter round corner table with a drawer. I've done several round aprons, but not one with a drawer cutout - you mentioned a drawer in yours. How are you cutting the drawer opening?
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
I used a square (not pictured) to keep the saw plumb. Not a round table but maybe this will help. Japanese saw for thin kerf.

IMG_0642.jpg
 

JNCarr

Joe
Corporate Member
@DrBob thanks much. Thats a great method for full height apron cuts. I didnt make it clear that I need a cutout with apron remaining on all 4 sides. I'm thinking a jig for the router, but looking for other (better) ideas.
 

FredP

Fred
Corporate Member
On the table saw rip the top flip and rip bottom. Cut the drawer front out of the center piece and glue the top Bottom and end pieces back together. Now you have your drawer front made from the same board. Perfect curve and grain matched. Run it across the jointer on each side to get to size for reveals. Then make the table and drawer.
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
@DrBob thanks much. Thats a great method for full height apron cuts. I didnt make it clear that I need a cutout with apron remaining on all 4 sides. I'm thinking a jig for the router, but looking for other (better) ideas.
Gotcha, but the principle would still apply if I had already ripped the top and bottom rails off (what FredP said ^^). The cuts need to be parallel to the drawer sides.

I recommend you trace out the aprons and lay out the drawer position. Clamp the apron over that and use the lines for a saw guide. You can see how I did that in the photo.

Also keep in mind you’re going to lose some apron width (2x kerf).

I recommend an auxiliary tall fence for ripping the rails.

A router on a curved surface seems a little sketchy to me.
 

JNCarr

Joe
Corporate Member
@Fred - that makes perfect sense - In fact I just did a flat table top glue-up exactly the same way, but hadnt translated that method to this apron.
@DrBob - also makes sense. BTW, I agree routing in a curved surface is tough - here's a rough drawing of the jig I was going to build to rectify that. The apron gets sandwiched between the original form (not shown) and the jig. Obviously not needed now!
 

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